Installed the F90bt, PAC-SWI-PS, Boyo VTL420 -- sweet... (56k beware)
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04-04-2009, 06:15 PM
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#2
04-04-2009, 06:37 PM
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So, thanks to TroyG and all the fine folks that responded to my nuisance posts to help me figure things out. Thanks (not really, what a rip off!) to Grubbs Infiniti for the JDM faceplate and A/C controller ($330 shipped, I did the dual button myself), so here's the breakdown:
Pioneer F90bt: $550 shipped from Amazon.com (from 6ave.com)
PAC SWI-PS: $40 shipped from Amazon.com (does bluetooth functions)
JDM: $330.00 shipped from Grubbs
Boyo VTL420 $70 shipped (random Ebay seller)
Metra 70-7551 $15.00 shipped (random ebayer)
The install was fairly straightforward, you can find a million links on this site for pictorials of how everything comes apart and goes back together. I soldered every joint, I created a heavy guage ground to the F90bt from the firewall.
I have NO engine whine, no hiss at high or low volumes, the Metra 7551 works FLAWLESSLY... I did keep all the audio wires away from the power wires to reduce interference.
YOU DO NOT NEED TO BUY A BRACKET/CAGE as the OEM one is JUST FINE for the job, and since I set the the unit so it is flush (see my previous thread re: getting rid of JDM gap), I had to drill into the OEM bracket to obtain the right fixation.
I also installed the PAC steering wheel module, and it works flawlessly, except for a subtle delay. You have to use two resistors, but they're included in the PAC packaging. I was able to use the 'MODE' button answer/pick up calls, but the button to the left (pic of telephone on it) does not register with PAC, so it's of no use. No big deal, I hangup usually by just tapping the screen.
I have a BB 8330 Curve and it works fine w/ the F90bt -- no bugginess, no freezing or other similar issues.
I did the hardwire bypass so I can watch DVDs and mess w/ navi settings while driving, no issues.
The sounds is pretty impressive I think compared to stock. I was messing with the EQ and got it to a very nice overall sound and I'm not a serious audiophile, but it blows the stock HU outta the water and gets pretty damn loud.
The reverse cam is great, it immediately shifts into reverse cam mode even when it's loading up, and the nighttime vision on the camera is great -- the stock rear lighting is ample lighting to visualize what I'm backing into.
There is not that much room behind the headunit to stuff wiring/harnesses, but just beneath the headunit is a little pocket that most of the wiring fits into. I placed my GPS Antenna just behind the analog clock, i did not need to use that magnetic/sticky pad, just used some 3M heavy duty double sided foam tape and adhered it to the dash -- I get GREAT satellite signal strength.
I also did the VSS wire and it tracks very accurately.
All in all, asides from a few tap delays here and there, it's a great unit for the money, the start up time is about 30 seconds (15 seconds to audio, ipod or FM or otherwise) and about 45 seconds to BT connection, immediate reverse image. I'm impressed.
Thanks for stopping by.
Pioneer F90bt: $550 shipped from Amazon.com (from 6ave.com)
PAC SWI-PS: $40 shipped from Amazon.com (does bluetooth functions)
JDM: $330.00 shipped from Grubbs
Boyo VTL420 $70 shipped (random Ebay seller)
Metra 70-7551 $15.00 shipped (random ebayer)
The install was fairly straightforward, you can find a million links on this site for pictorials of how everything comes apart and goes back together. I soldered every joint, I created a heavy guage ground to the F90bt from the firewall.
I have NO engine whine, no hiss at high or low volumes, the Metra 7551 works FLAWLESSLY... I did keep all the audio wires away from the power wires to reduce interference.
YOU DO NOT NEED TO BUY A BRACKET/CAGE as the OEM one is JUST FINE for the job, and since I set the the unit so it is flush (see my previous thread re: getting rid of JDM gap), I had to drill into the OEM bracket to obtain the right fixation.
I also installed the PAC steering wheel module, and it works flawlessly, except for a subtle delay. You have to use two resistors, but they're included in the PAC packaging. I was able to use the 'MODE' button answer/pick up calls, but the button to the left (pic of telephone on it) does not register with PAC, so it's of no use. No big deal, I hangup usually by just tapping the screen.
I have a BB 8330 Curve and it works fine w/ the F90bt -- no bugginess, no freezing or other similar issues.
I did the hardwire bypass so I can watch DVDs and mess w/ navi settings while driving, no issues.
The sounds is pretty impressive I think compared to stock. I was messing with the EQ and got it to a very nice overall sound and I'm not a serious audiophile, but it blows the stock HU outta the water and gets pretty damn loud.
The reverse cam is great, it immediately shifts into reverse cam mode even when it's loading up, and the nighttime vision on the camera is great -- the stock rear lighting is ample lighting to visualize what I'm backing into.
There is not that much room behind the headunit to stuff wiring/harnesses, but just beneath the headunit is a little pocket that most of the wiring fits into. I placed my GPS Antenna just behind the analog clock, i did not need to use that magnetic/sticky pad, just used some 3M heavy duty double sided foam tape and adhered it to the dash -- I get GREAT satellite signal strength.
I also did the VSS wire and it tracks very accurately.
All in all, asides from a few tap delays here and there, it's a great unit for the money, the start up time is about 30 seconds (15 seconds to audio, ipod or FM or otherwise) and about 45 seconds to BT connection, immediate reverse image. I'm impressed.
Thanks for stopping by.
#3
04-05-2009, 12:12 AM
Looks Great! Making the unit flush definitely makes the install much cleaner and nicer! Im planning on doing the same.
I have the same unit and had a car audio shop do the install, which I chosen a bad shop to do it at.! I have couple of minor problems and they couldnt fix it! Professionals my ***!
I have done HU installs before but never an amp and sub. That is the reason why I had pro's do my install because I have read stories about bad installs could blow the sub/amp (spent alot cash for sub/amp! JL 500-1 slash amp, JL 10"w6v2 w/ 4080box). I just hope they did a good job on the amp/sub install. Sounds fine for now.
Im going to try to fix the minor problems myself.!
Hope you can help with my problems.
1. I have the pac swi-ps(newest verison out- blue unit w/bluetooth) but only the volume works. The shop told me, only the volume would work and says this swi-ps doesnt support the f90bt. I knew it was BS but I didnt even want to bother with them anymore!
I think they didnt use the resistors that came with the unit. And that is causing the problem programing the unit. Im going to take apart my dash and see if that is the reason. How exactly do you install the resistors on the unit and where do you install it on?
2. Im getting hissing sound/ engine whine/ static on any volume level. not sure what the reason is!
Im not sure if they solder the wires. But im thinking they didnt and just twisted the wires together. Also they grounded the unit onto the bracket. I did use the 7550 instead of 7551.
First im going to try to ground it better, see if that helps. Can you give me more info on how you grounded it to the firewall?
Is soldering the wires necessary? do you think this might be the problem?
than if all fails im going to try to swith the metra 7550 to 7551.
But i do notice the volume is loud even on 1 volume. Im thinking it might be the harness since the 7551 is meant to be used instead of 7550.
How loud is your 1volume? Are you able to hear the music good when it's dead silence? Im able to hear it pretty good.
hope you can help. thanks
I have the same unit and had a car audio shop do the install, which I chosen a bad shop to do it at.! I have couple of minor problems and they couldnt fix it! Professionals my ***!
I have done HU installs before but never an amp and sub. That is the reason why I had pro's do my install because I have read stories about bad installs could blow the sub/amp (spent alot cash for sub/amp! JL 500-1 slash amp, JL 10"w6v2 w/ 4080box). I just hope they did a good job on the amp/sub install. Sounds fine for now.
Im going to try to fix the minor problems myself.!
Hope you can help with my problems.
1. I have the pac swi-ps(newest verison out- blue unit w/bluetooth) but only the volume works. The shop told me, only the volume would work and says this swi-ps doesnt support the f90bt. I knew it was BS but I didnt even want to bother with them anymore!
I think they didnt use the resistors that came with the unit. And that is causing the problem programing the unit. Im going to take apart my dash and see if that is the reason. How exactly do you install the resistors on the unit and where do you install it on?
2. Im getting hissing sound/ engine whine/ static on any volume level. not sure what the reason is!
Im not sure if they solder the wires. But im thinking they didnt and just twisted the wires together. Also they grounded the unit onto the bracket. I did use the 7550 instead of 7551.
First im going to try to ground it better, see if that helps. Can you give me more info on how you grounded it to the firewall?
Is soldering the wires necessary? do you think this might be the problem?
than if all fails im going to try to swith the metra 7550 to 7551.
But i do notice the volume is loud even on 1 volume. Im thinking it might be the harness since the 7551 is meant to be used instead of 7550.
How loud is your 1volume? Are you able to hear the music good when it's dead silence? Im able to hear it pretty good.
hope you can help. thanks
Last edited by jin22gt; 04-05-2009 at 12:43 AM.
#4
04-05-2009, 09:22 AM
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Jin:
1) They're BS about the PAC, LOL! The f90bt ABSOLUTELY supports basically all 10 functions on that list .. the only one i couldn't get it to do was "phone status"...
** you should be able to get volume, seek, and ANSWER PHONE to work with your existing buttons
** I took the WHITE wire off the PAC harness (the red is 12vdc, the black is ground, and the looped wires you don't touch, and the others you clip) and attached the 47ohm and 150ohm resistors to it (Y-fashion). To make sure this never breaks down (as resistors are fragile), I used a breadboard (available at radioshack fo $2.00) and a project box (also at radioshack for $3.00) and basically created a circuit board. I attached the 150ohm wire to the green wire on the G35 harness and the 47ohm to the red wire (i could have these reversed, just check the pac wiring guide, or i'll get back to you with the details later) and you're in business.
** programming it is a bit challenging at first, so my guess is that they just didn't know how to do it. OR you have a bad PAC unit, OR they didn't do the resistors right. I had a helluva time programming it -- but once you UNDERSTAND what the stupid instructions are saying .. it becomes infinitely clear, the sea opens up, angels sing, and i swear, i SWEAR, i saw heavenly lights shine down through my sunroof onto the PAC unit.
Do you have bose?
if yes:
SWITCH TO THE 70-7551
Your 7550 is basically the high output wires going to a Bose amp looking for low output signals. The 4.0volt pre-outs are just fine. I think the F90 mates beautifully with the Bose.
Your ground:
** I took the back wire off the Pio harness that has the little metal C-bracket on it .. and cut it close to the C-bracket and soldered on some 10 gauge wire and fished it down to the footwell of the driver's side and when you poke your head to look at your accelerator .. now look past that to the firewall and you'll see THREE big bolts attaching the steering column to the firewall. I've always used THIS ground for all my remote starter installations (unless i'm doing a steal installation for a customer, in which case I'll do it behind the glove box on the firewall).
Anyways... i removed this bolt, bought a more generously sized O-ring type bracket from radioshack (i've had these little items all sitting around, you see, so they always come in handy), soldered this on the far end of my NEW ground wire extension, and slapped that puppy onto the fire wall and cranked down on that bolt -- voila! Equisite ground connection.
Next, I made sure the RCA preout gray wires were as far away from the power harness (ACC and Constant 12vdc (yellow)) as possible.
No hiss. No whine. No worries.
Every MECP has his/her own opinion about how to connect wires, my firm belief is that if you know how to solder the right way, SOLDER ALL YOUR CONNECTIONS. It very well could be a problem, but i'd look to the Metra 7551 and a new ground first. While you're in there, if you can, I'd solder and either shrink tube or electric tape the wire joints.
Volume:
My volume sounds like the stock volume, but louder on high end with better musical reproduction, more defined with much better equalization.
In dead silence, at low volume, car off (only on ACC), windows rolled up, sunroof closed, garage door closed (you get the point) there is no hiss at low volume and i can hear the music at Volume 1,2,3... and it sounds appropriate for those levels. While driving, i comfortably listen to music at volume 20-30 (and I like LOUD music, my wife doesn't, LOL) so i'll crank it to 40 and it gets .. too loud but sounds UNdistorted.. I just respect my ear drums, so i keep it at 25.
Lemme know, happy to help.
i got to admit, the F90bt is a bit buggy at times, but for all that it does and for the price, it's hard to not go with this. I just couldn't fork over the $1000+ for a nicer unit.
1) They're BS about the PAC, LOL! The f90bt ABSOLUTELY supports basically all 10 functions on that list .. the only one i couldn't get it to do was "phone status"...
** you should be able to get volume, seek, and ANSWER PHONE to work with your existing buttons
** I took the WHITE wire off the PAC harness (the red is 12vdc, the black is ground, and the looped wires you don't touch, and the others you clip) and attached the 47ohm and 150ohm resistors to it (Y-fashion). To make sure this never breaks down (as resistors are fragile), I used a breadboard (available at radioshack fo $2.00) and a project box (also at radioshack for $3.00) and basically created a circuit board. I attached the 150ohm wire to the green wire on the G35 harness and the 47ohm to the red wire (i could have these reversed, just check the pac wiring guide, or i'll get back to you with the details later) and you're in business.
** programming it is a bit challenging at first, so my guess is that they just didn't know how to do it. OR you have a bad PAC unit, OR they didn't do the resistors right. I had a helluva time programming it -- but once you UNDERSTAND what the stupid instructions are saying .. it becomes infinitely clear, the sea opens up, angels sing, and i swear, i SWEAR, i saw heavenly lights shine down through my sunroof onto the PAC unit.
Do you have bose?
if yes:
SWITCH TO THE 70-7551
Your 7550 is basically the high output wires going to a Bose amp looking for low output signals. The 4.0volt pre-outs are just fine. I think the F90 mates beautifully with the Bose.
Your ground:
** I took the back wire off the Pio harness that has the little metal C-bracket on it .. and cut it close to the C-bracket and soldered on some 10 gauge wire and fished it down to the footwell of the driver's side and when you poke your head to look at your accelerator .. now look past that to the firewall and you'll see THREE big bolts attaching the steering column to the firewall. I've always used THIS ground for all my remote starter installations (unless i'm doing a steal installation for a customer, in which case I'll do it behind the glove box on the firewall).
Anyways... i removed this bolt, bought a more generously sized O-ring type bracket from radioshack (i've had these little items all sitting around, you see, so they always come in handy), soldered this on the far end of my NEW ground wire extension, and slapped that puppy onto the fire wall and cranked down on that bolt -- voila! Equisite ground connection.
Next, I made sure the RCA preout gray wires were as far away from the power harness (ACC and Constant 12vdc (yellow)) as possible.
No hiss. No whine. No worries.
Every MECP has his/her own opinion about how to connect wires, my firm belief is that if you know how to solder the right way, SOLDER ALL YOUR CONNECTIONS. It very well could be a problem, but i'd look to the Metra 7551 and a new ground first. While you're in there, if you can, I'd solder and either shrink tube or electric tape the wire joints.
Volume:
My volume sounds like the stock volume, but louder on high end with better musical reproduction, more defined with much better equalization.
In dead silence, at low volume, car off (only on ACC), windows rolled up, sunroof closed, garage door closed (you get the point) there is no hiss at low volume and i can hear the music at Volume 1,2,3... and it sounds appropriate for those levels. While driving, i comfortably listen to music at volume 20-30 (and I like LOUD music, my wife doesn't, LOL) so i'll crank it to 40 and it gets .. too loud but sounds UNdistorted.. I just respect my ear drums, so i keep it at 25.
Lemme know, happy to help.
i got to admit, the F90bt is a bit buggy at times, but for all that it does and for the price, it's hard to not go with this. I just couldn't fork over the $1000+ for a nicer unit.
#5
04-05-2009, 10:47 AM
That looks great!, I recently bought the JDM DD kit from grubbs, and im looking to buy the same exact products that youre using. I really like how flawless this unit looks in your car. Do you think i should buy all the products and take it to get it installed? i am worried that they might not know what they are doing and improvise in the installing.
#6
04-05-2009, 11:54 AM
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Mr Potato ...
I don't trust any joint workin' on my ride... I've been doing car installs since I was 16 (29 now) so I felt very comfortable with the fabrication of the DDin spacer (scosche) and I knew wanted it done certain way and i wanted to take my time with it.
However, if the shop is good with customization, they should guarantee their work -- Give them a call and/or stop by their shop and ask them what the deal is. They probably have all the requisite supplies.
Thanks for the props, lemme know how i can help, PM me whenever.
I don't trust any joint workin' on my ride... I've been doing car installs since I was 16 (29 now) so I felt very comfortable with the fabrication of the DDin spacer (scosche) and I knew wanted it done certain way and i wanted to take my time with it.
However, if the shop is good with customization, they should guarantee their work -- Give them a call and/or stop by their shop and ask them what the deal is. They probably have all the requisite supplies.
Thanks for the props, lemme know how i can help, PM me whenever.
#7
04-05-2009, 01:30 PM
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04-05-2009, 01:49 PM
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#13
04-07-2009, 09:54 PM
#14
07-31-2009, 07:55 PM
so im sitting here soldering all the connections for this install and i cant figure out the damn rca's on the f90bt harness and the ones on the metra harness go together since the colors dont match up. green/violet and white/grey on the metra harness and on the f90bt harness its red/white and red/white...help?
