Long long time lurker here but just joined the forum.
I consider myself a Benz guy and very active in the Benz forums or groups. Own 3 of them currently.

2007 35X model in the stable.
It was the wife’s daily driver until 2 years ago, after got her a GL class SUV, she didn’t even drive the 35 for more than a year now.
I still keep it as an extra ride, for the family members visiting.
I drive it to work couple times a week. Just to keep it from sleeping all the time.
Honestly I don’t even care about the car but I’ll be honest, it’s the most trouble free car for the last 14 years we owned it.
Recently developed a surge at exactly 2K rpm, it’s present either on idling or driving so I can rule out the transmission issues.
Best described, when pushing the pedal, at exactly 2K, car surges, almost feels like a misfire, when driving it gives me a slight jerk and then continues normal from there.
My observation is this only happens when engine is still cold or warming up, later phases in the drive it’s not happening.
No check engine light or codes present, which puzzles me.
Last tune up was about 2 years ago, changed the spark plugs with Denso plugs.
Latest item was, couple weeks ago I changed the master cylinder but issue is there about a month now.
Its 161K miles now.
I’ll try to load a video here, see if I can manage that.
Thanks everyone for the advice and suggestions in advance.

 

This shows what’s going on.
In the Benz universe this would possibly point out to the motor mounts or injector issues but not sure about the 35.
I remember reading about some issues with the throttle position sensor but again, I’m new to the 35 world, even though we have the car about 14 years now, this is a pretty headache free car for me.

 

Upload the video to YouTube and then post the URL here. The forum video upload feature is very hit or miss.

 

From the description alone, my complete guess is crank sensor. Sounds like some behavior I had just recently before the original crank sensor in my 06X went out completely. The brief surge/misfire feeling transitioned into more of a stutter for a few days before the car just died on the road and wouldn't restart. Just crank, no start. Called a wrecker and waited an hour. Wrecker showed up and then the car restarted and drove the short distance home. Tough to figure out if it's something like this if it doesn't throw codes which mine did eventually once it died and wouldn't restart. And against all better judgement, I bought a cheap auto store crank sensor from O'riely's and it's actually working so far no problem. Yours might be completely a different story. Good luck figuring it out.

Which Benz model would you recommend for someone who knows nothing about them but prefers older more reliable stuff (like non-turbo, I drive an 06 Infiniti). Looking for like E350 or E550 (if they're not a nightmare) but would consider S or even CLS but Idon't know which generations are reliable and which to avoid. If there's a good thread like that you know of on your Benz forum, would appreciate a link.

 

 

It all depends on what year are you looking for and what your budget.
If you want an older generation, I’d recommend W210 chassis E Class, I had 3 of them before and never a big issue. Solid car and solid ride.
If you want it to be a little more modern, E class again, W211. Definitely stay away from 2006 and early 2007 models, early M272-273 engines suffered from a soft balance shaft sprocket issue, $$$ repair, whole engine needs to be opened up to be able to address the issue..
2008 and 09 are very solid cars.
08 and 09 models RWD ones have new 7 speed 722.9 transmission, which is ok but 08-09 if you get a 4Matic, they have the robust 5 speed 722.6 and fluid changes are a piece of cake on those.
After 3 W210s and one W211 I have a W212 E350 now, which is 2011, again very good car, M272 engine and 7 speed tranny but after all those issues sorted out.
If you look at the W212 E550, I’d recommend either getting 2010-11 and early 2012, after the second half of 12 they switched to turbocharged M278 and definitely skip the years 2012-13 and 14 on that, they have cylinder walls scoring issues on those years. After second half of 15, it’s good.
I don’t know much about CLSs, all I hear is they share the same platform with W212, so they are not too bad.
S Class is another story, if I was in the market for an S class, I’d look at the 2009-10 and and 11, those S550s came with the naturally aspirated M273, which is a total beast, just keep an eye on the oil changes and you are good.
So stay away from 2006-07 M272 or 273 engine no matter what class. Also early production M278 and 276 engines which falls to 12-13 and 14.
Hit me up if you have any questions, I’ll be happy to help.

 

Amazing how consistent your thing is right there at 2k. Mine wasn't like that. Much more infrequent and only happened every now and then on the road but similar kind of stutter at similar low RPM like almost but not completely off the throttle while driving through the neighborhood speeds. I also have the V35 and am way less familiar with the common problems in the V36. I'd still say there's a small chance it might be a flakey crank sensor. What's nice about the CKP on the V35 is it's right on the bottom of the bell housing and almost the easiest thing to replace on the entire car.

Thanks for the great MB history info! I have heard all those roughly but get them mixed up so to see it written all concisely in one place is great. Because I'm looking at older cars and buying used from indivduals usually it's just what kind of deal falls in my lap. So I'm open to any of those models as I like them all but just looking to avoid any huge landmines. I had a 2005 BMW E30 which wasn't a bad car but being on the forums I really saw how bad the V8s were and all that. That was years ago, I can't imagine how many horror stories there must be with everything turbo and over integrated electronified now.

 

What I noticed today while shooting the video, If I let the pedal go and RPM drops to idle and then push again, issue happens again but if I dont let the pedal go all the way and pick up from say 1300-1500 and then go back to 2000 again, its not happening. Also its much less noticeable when the engine fully warms up, its still there but super quick, hard to catch.
I really started to think this is related to TB, maybe its dirty, probably some tar or carbon, who knows, always used premium top tier gas but its 17 years old and not much driven past couple of years...
I`ll tackle with that maybe tomorrow.

For the same era (2000-2005) I`ll take a Benz over a Beemer any time, M112 and 113 engines in W210 and early W211 are bulletproof, mated with a 5 speed 722.6, the best combo IMO, I`m the same here, keeping my eyes open for another W210 for a beater, mileage doesnt scare me on those. Just have an itch for the old beast, much roomier than W211 and 212. Boxy solid German vault feeling lol
I had a 2001 E55, its really a collector car these days and a stupid teenager rear ended me because she was on her phone texting, quickly I got my hands on a E320 at 100K miles and when I sold that, it was at 270K, the young fella bought it from me still drives it.
Yes turbochargers are nothing but problems for both MB and Beemers, I always prefer a NA engine.

 

Seems like live data should show you something if one of the throttle bodies isn't acting right. That's a big difference in V35 to V36. I have 1. V36 has 2 so more chances for problems. The cars are pretty good at knowing the pedal position, calculated throttle command and throttle position feedback so any problems with correlation in those seems like it would throw a code to point you at a problem. Especially if you can hang it up in that flat spot by holding it there. If you've got a logger of some kind, charting the throttle position for both might be interesting as you hit that spot.

Man it's been so many years I can't even remember my model type. I had an E60 (530i). I knew something didn't seem right when I was typing that. Bad sign of old age when the numbers get mixed up in my head.

 

That’s another question I have actually, what’s a good scanner for these cars?
I have Star for my MB’s, snapped on it quickly when an older gentleman was having a move sale, he gave me heck of a deal.
But honestly I’ve never done any deep diagnostics on the 35, never had a check engine light, never had any issues this past 14 years, I’m really impressed with this car, just last year around July I overhauled the front end, struts, control arms, axels, tie rods etc, pretty much all everything in there, drives pretty tight now, even put an amateur video in the tube lol.
All diff fluids, TC fluid, transmission fluid was done at the same time along with power steering and brake fluid and coolant. Belt and tensioner was replaced as well.
So all the basics are good.

I normally wouldn’t care much about this issue either but this Friday my cousins visiting from Switzerland and they will drive it around and take it to Durango, which is 6 hours drive, don’t want them to get stranded in the middle of nowhere.