I am doing it this weekend, i will let you know

 

Awesome! thanks!

 

any update inneedof?

 

^been having a similar issue. not quite as drastic. id say about 10-15%. if she sits for a week, i have to jump it

 

i imagine you could add a resistor to allow just enough power to prevent settings loss while using a relay. (looks like 87-30 pins) not sure exactly how much power is needed to retain the sttgs, but it might be worth a shot

 

I wish i knew more about electrical stuff. The resistors could work.
I kept my old radio, its been sitting in my basement since i swapped it out. A few days ago i noticed on the bottom of it there is a sticker that says "refurbished". I bought the car in 2006 so why would a 3 year old car have a refurbished radio in it? I wonder if the other people that are having this problem also have a refurbished version of the bose radio.

 

I alredy change the HUBose for a AVIC-Z1 unit with stock bose amp. I think that the problem resides in the amp and not the radio. ANy one with a problem like this in DD conversions?

 

I think there are two problems people run into. one is with the amp and one is with the radio. Mine was defiantly with the radio.

 

i have a kenwood dd conversion and i just started having this problem. my car is okay after i jump it but after a day or two, my car will have absolutely no power. can't even unlock/lock with my key remote, no lights, can't put car in neutral... i tried jumping it again and my car was able to start and everything seemed fine for 2 days and then it happened again. i really want to find a way to fix this. oh yeah, my battery is less than 4 months old.
it's an AC Delco battery.

-DV

 

correct me if im wrong... but wont the resistor blow when you turn on the car? assuming that the HU is going to pull more amps. then you will have an open circut w/ no power

But i had the same issue :/ insteada buyin another cheapo OEM, i just went aftermarket. great fix

 

The problem is the radio. There are companies on ebay that repair the radios that pull power or give the error message(search for Infiniti Radio Repair). I paid around $125 with shipping, but I think they've gone up. I had both problems(battery drain and error message/cd changer not working). It fixed both problems, haven't had an issue in two years(except sometimes when it's very cold it takes about a minute for my ac and radio to come on...kind of weird).

 

Sorry to bring up an old thread but I seem to be having the same issue.

I have a 03 with Nav and it seems like I have a parasitic draw. I will be doing some serious testing tomorrow so I will update this thread as necessary.

An amp issue would be easier to debug than a stereo issue but both should be easy to find.

 

I am currently in the process of doing measurements. The total current draw of the vehicle with all doors locked, engine off, key out of ignition, etc is ~530mA. This is unreasonably high.

Removing the RADIO Fuse (15A) in the fusebox located in the engine compartment beside the battery results in a current draw of about 80mA. Significant drop ! IMHO it still appears high but I will aim for the lowest hanging fruit first.

Just to verify my measurements I measured the current going through that RADIO Fuse (fuse #37) and at idle after the audio unit has settled, the current draw is 450mA. That is an unusually high current draw.. The Audio unit is dissipating ~ 5W of power !!!! You can fly to the moon on that much power...

 

This seems to be an intermittent issue for me. Sometimes I could get it to draw 450mA but after playing with the harnesses and unplugging removing the unit I couldn't reproduce the problem anymore..

These are the worst to debug...hate intermittent issues..

 

Looking at part numbers, just as an FYI.

The unit installed in my '03 G35 w/ Bose and w/Nav is
Clarion PN-2545E
This unit is based on PN-2459E-A except ..looking at the service manuals they removed the "telephone" option. That can technically be "added" with one toshiba Integrated ciruit and a whole bunch of passives(capacitors and resistors). (If the software load in the micro-controller supports it)


UPDATE:
I kept looking into the schematic and I believe equilibrium was onto something with his post here:
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...check-out.html

DETAILS:
A National Semi (now TI) part LM2936 is used to generate the "stand-by" voltage of the system which is +5V. This part will generate a max of 50mA. It is "paralleled" up with a large transistor so whenever the system boots up it provides most of the current draw through resistors R509 and R510. Both resistors are surface mount 1206s, 22 ohm and are rated at 1/8W each.

Like equilibrium I noticed discoloration on both resistors and one of them is lifted up. Replacement is necessary since this is the main power source of the system.

The whole unit is controller by a Mitsubishi M16C series microprocessor (M30624MGA). When the unit is idle only +5V (named VDD) is active. The microcontroller can then turn on the SYS+5V main supply by pulling the SYS-ON signal high. Other control signals are used to turn on +9V , +12V, etc.

I cannot exactly explain the high current behavior I was seeing but it MAY be related to the unit constantly turning on/off when idle. A non-working climate controls is fully explainable by overheated resistors. At least this is my current explanation. I think it would be simpler to replace the resistors with a higher power rated device(s) and call it a day. If the issue isn't resolved further experimentation may be needed.

MORAL OF THE STORY:
Swap out R509 and R510 with higher power rating resistors and see.
I have no idea if replacing the resistors will do anything for my battery drain problem.I highly doubt a "service fee" of ~$150 involves just swapping out 2 resistors.