I re-flowed the resistors today..They feel way too warm to the touch for my liking.

I will be swapping them out for a higher power rating part. I hope that will be the end of it.

UPDATE: put it back together in the car but now I have a "CD ERR F0" . Hilarity ensues

 

Alright !!!

All done, everything is back together and everything works perfectly once again !!!

I cannot say if I am still getting the intermittent battery draw but I will be monitoring the battery and hopefully all is well ! If I forget to write back, feel free to PM me.

on another note: The CD ERR F0 was caused by a CD that jumped out of it's tray and had lodged itself in the CD changing mechanism.

I made 2 mistakes:
1) Left 3 CDs inside the unit when I took it out of the car
2) Power up the unit on my bench while it was UPSIDE-DOWN and with CDs inside ! Do NOT do that. I am pretty certain this is when the CD charger tried to initialize itself and a CD popped out of the mechanism. I have a video of the init procedure. Neat to watch.

I cut the CD into pieces then took it out. It was a burned CD-R so no biggy.

I hope it keeps working and all is well

 

Which resistors did you end up settling upon?

 

Sorry I made a mistake in the resistor numbering in the previous post. It is corrected now. Thanks !

I replaced R509 and R510 with a single big boy ceramic resistor and bolted it to the case for cooling.

I re-flowed R508 for good measure. Not enough current is flowing through it to cause any damage but I was already inthere so why not...

 

Which ceramic resistor exactly?

 

Whatever I could find in my parts bin at the time so it wasn't a perfect fit. It was also a 10 ohms as opposed to the 11 ohms it should have been. This means that Q507 is dissipating more power now so I made a quick makeshift heatsink for it too. I'll post pictures and video if this works well for the next few days.I am still very uncomfortable with calling this a fix since I didn't have a reliable repeatable issue that I could debug.

If everything is well I will try finding a digikey resistor that should be a direct fit on the board.

 

And here is the video:

 

I'm having a similar issue with my battery draining after only sitting for a couple of days, the only thing is that my car is a 06 coupe with Bose. A few months ago the audio from the radio would cut in and out and then all of a sudden the audio went completely out for a few weeks and then it came back and I haven't had a problem with it since. The only thing is that now the battery dies. I'm going to pull the fuse to the radio and let the car sit for a few days and then see what happens with it. If that ends up fixing it, I might just do the DD conversion.

 

Hi @DGrantG, did your battery hold a charge with the radio fuse removed?

I am experiencing similar problems on my 2003 G35 Coupe Bose. I recently fixed the issue with the CD player failure and A/C controls cutting out (there's a few surface-mount resistors on the main board that hairline fracture over time due to heat/vibration/bad factory soldering. re-soldering those seems to fix the issue). Right after fixing that problem, now I find my battery dies after 12-24 hrs of sitting. The only other varible is that while I was working on the aforementioned radio fix, I did kill the battery from sitting and testing so long over half a day's work, and had to jump-start the car. It's possible that I killed the battery in the process, and that the radio fix is a coincidence.

I only say that because, after jumping the car and fully charging the battery, and finding a few hours later I could 'barely' start the car, I fully charged it again, and pulled the radio fuse as others have done in this thread, and found it still would not hold a charge. I just got back from 9 days of vacation, and the battery is so dead the interior cabin lights barely come on, and again the radio fuse was removed that whole time.

So.... new battery today. I will leave the radio fuse pulled a few days (I work from home so all this dead battery madness really isn't too hard on me, thankfully), and if the battery remains healthy I'll put the fuse back in and go from there as well, to see if the battery drain issue returns, or if it really was just coincidence.

All that said, if anyone has been through what I'm going through, please share!

 

Why don't you just measure the current draw from the battery ? If something is draining it as fast as a few hours / day it would be obvious to find with a multimeter.

 

That's a good point, and you're right. Unfortunately all of my tools are at our other house, and I wont be there for a month, so I'm having to forego some of the usual testing procedures this time around. I am actually going to keep the "bad" battery for now rather than return it for core credit, until I can further test it, as I have some other non-car projects it will be useful for, if it turns out to be okay.

 

When I was still diagnosing the issue I order myself one of those:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/261113087982?...84.m1497.l2649

You are not really looking for accurate measurements. For a change in voltage over time it does the job just fine. I used it to "predict" if the car was going to start the next day or if I will have to bust out the booster cables again...

I just feel uneasy about deep discharging a brand new battery since it can be quite damaging to it's long term life.

 

Also a very good point. Killing a brand new battery if I am wrong, is a bad way to start its' life. I think I will just run out and pick up a meter: I just found that Harbor Freight has a cheapo that will handle up to 10A DC for $5.

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-92020.html

 

Yeah, removing the fuse kept my battery fully charged and it has sat for a week without starting and it started just fine. The only bad thing for me is money's tight right now so I'm just rolling around without a radio and I can't adjust my climate control since it's on the same fuse. I'm also skeptical of getting a used head unit from ebay or from here since it may have the same issue. I'm just going to have to bite the bullet and get me an double din and the JDM bezel... ugh

 

Can you tell me the part # on the radio/hu?

it should be something like PN-xxxx