No idea. It's a Bose in an 06 coupe.

 

Making some progress on my end: Got a new battery, pulled the Radio 15A fuse, and am shunting across that with a digital meter, here's my findings:

Normal power-on running current is ~2.5A, with radio or CD playing. When I turn off the radio, it "usually" falls to about 0.015A (15mA). However, about every 2-3 power cycles, it stays at about 0.850A, as others have seen too. I have yet to find a 100% repeatable pattern to when it does or does not "hang" at the higher current draw. It seems to me that pulling 0.850A would certainly drain the battery in a matter of a day or two at the most, while 0.015A is a totally acceptable standby power draw state, and would last months.

With that, has anyone else concluded these findings, and found a resolution? I do not want to wire in a power-off relay, since that will kill the radio presets every time. I am, however, open to the idea of disconnecting the CD player, as I had done for quite some time anyway. I use a GROM bluetooth adapter on the SAT channel, so my phone and radio are basically the only inputs I ever use (Yes I did confirm that removing the GROM unit has no play in when the parasitic power draw scenario pops up).

Hope this helps... let's keep moving on fixing this issue guys!

Also one other thing, if there's someone out there that does NOT have the power drain issue, if they could test the power on/power off current draw of their Bose, that would be very helpful too

 

Yeah my parasitic draw is gone after replacing the resistors with the design shown in my video posted earlier in this thread.

You may already be doing this but I noticed that the Bose has a settling/init time. After you supply power to it wait ~1min before reading the DMM. Did you do that during your measurements ?

 

@Quanttrom, I'm glad to hear that! I am sort of posting my results in real-time here as a test today. Since I have my meter shunted in so I can see the display from inside the car, I'm able to leave it and read the results as they are happening.

This last round of testing, I found that it took about a dozen ignition key cycles to finally get it to "stick" at the 850mA draw. I left it, and came back about 10 min later and found it had dropped to the desired 15mA or so.

@Quanttrom, I'm not sure what you mean by "Reading the DMM"?

I replaced the 15A fuse, and am just reading the battery voltage now and recording it every 15 min, so I can see if I get any significant draw-down over time. It will take a few days or weeks to be sure, but I am starting to lean more towards my root problem actually having been a failed battery (due to me draining it way down), it was a 5 year old battery anyway.

 

Just recording the measurement. The measurement is valid only once the stereo has had enough time to go through it's init procedure and settle fully. ~1min is safe.

 

I can say with more confidence now, having replaced my battery Monday, that I was actually not experiencing the parasitic power draw from the radio. It was coincidence with a 5 year old battery being drained down too low, when I was working on the stereo last week. I have not made any further changes, and the battery has not gone low, and the Bose stereo is still working normally. I agree with others, that the replacement or re-soldering (re-flowing is not enough, add solder!) of the resistors is the key fix for the Bose radios, and in turn keeping the radio from drawing down the battery by not properly turning itself off.

 

Can someone pull they headunit and take a picture of the back with arrows showing which resistors need more solder?

 

I took this picture when I re-soldered mine. You can see (sorry its a bit blurry) that the resistors are loose and out of whack. When you look at yours, they may not be visibly lifted or out of place, but it's highly likely they are hairline fractured. I would recommend (only if you are confident in your soldering skills) to hit each of these resistors and add fresh solder to the joint as well.

Since I was already in there, I went over the whole board and hit any resistor of that same size, to play it safe as well. There are about a billion much smaller resistors, and I didn't mess with those, just the larger ones like pictured here.

Also for reference, we've been discussing this in the following thread:
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...check-out.html

 

My 2005 G35 Sedan had a draw that was killing the battery after a couple days of not starting the vehicle. It was coming from the radio and with this stock bose system I decided to upgrade the head unit and now I am getting a .35 amp pull. From what I read this is acceptable, but I am still concerned of the dead battery. Thoughts????

David

 

See how long it takes to drain your battery and then you'll know how acceptable it is. Mine drains in about a week and a half so if I know it's going to be sitting longer than that I just pull the negative terminal.

 

0.35A seems high
I sold the G35 a while back so I can't measure anything but I think the car should be able to sit for 2 weeks without too much trouble.

 

350mA is too high. General rule of thumb is no more than 50mA 20 minutes after the car is left (make sure you give the BCM enough time to enter sleep mode).

A standard automotive relay pulls about 200mA and when people wire them to stay energized with the car off they generally kill the car within 3 days.

 

Been reading posts trying to understand my problem. I've got the 2003 G 35 coupe with the Bose and no radio, temp controls stuck on 75 auto/ac. Did your problem also involve the temp controls as what I've read, the radio controls the temp. controls. I've seen the pics of the board and I am going to take radio out of dash and take a look at the board. After taking out the radio and replacing the clip on my gear shifter, can the car be driven while I've got the dash apart and the radio out?
thanks

 

Yes

 

I just bought a 2005 G35 Sedan and I had to call AAA twice within a week because no electricity at all after overnight parking(had to use my physical key to open the door). So did the place repair the problem? what did they do? Thanks.