does the bose need to be rewired for the new HU?
#1
does the bose need to be rewired for the new HU?
i'm getting two different answers from two installers...
one says yes, my bose needs to be rewired because the headunit already has an amplifier.. and that i dont really wanna amplify and amplifer.. i would probably blow up my bose amp or factory speakers
one says no, the new radio simply sends the signal to the oem amp as the oem radio does.. you use the line outs from the radio to feed the bose amp. no preamplification.. but some nissans don't like that signal, so you can either buy an expensive bose adapter, or actually wire in using the pioneers amp. in that case, yes amplifying an amp, but works just fine. only downside is a little louder volume level. but most nissans you dont have to resort to that.
so for people with bose and aftermarket headunit, did u have to get your bose rewired?
one says yes, my bose needs to be rewired because the headunit already has an amplifier.. and that i dont really wanna amplify and amplifer.. i would probably blow up my bose amp or factory speakers
one says no, the new radio simply sends the signal to the oem amp as the oem radio does.. you use the line outs from the radio to feed the bose amp. no preamplification.. but some nissans don't like that signal, so you can either buy an expensive bose adapter, or actually wire in using the pioneers amp. in that case, yes amplifying an amp, but works just fine. only downside is a little louder volume level. but most nissans you dont have to resort to that.
so for people with bose and aftermarket headunit, did u have to get your bose rewired?
#2
#4
Your new head unit most likely has unbalanced RCA outputs and the Bose has balanced inputs. You need a couple of balance transmitters to do it correctly. On the other hand your amp in the Head Unit may be ok to use with the stock speakers and you may want to check that out.
#5
new h/u and Bose speakers
I did not have my stock speakers rewired. Just using the Bose adapter with a slightly more powerful amp in the aftermarket headunit and it sounds really good, very clean, with a little more punch than the oem h/u. The stock h/u doesn't have RCA cables to the speakers. It has a thin ribbonlike set of wires. That is Bose for ya. I strongly suggest having an audio shop with experience with G35s. There is too much potential for something to not work properly.
Last edited by anmblackG; 10-23-2009 at 10:31 PM. Reason: added info
#6
#7
I did not have my stock speakers rewired. Just using the Bose adapter with a slightly more powerful amp in the aftermarket headunit and it sounds really good, very clean, with a little more punch than the oem h/u. The stock h/u doesn't have RCA cables to the speakers. It has a thin ribbonlike set of wires. That is Bose for ya. I strongly suggest having an audio shop with experience with G35s. There is too much potential for something to not work properly.
The Bose uses balanced inputs instead of unbalance RCAs because that is the best way to do things with a remotely located amplifier for noise reduction. Depending on year I think you would find the power of the amps to be similar. The reason is that most HU amps do not use a dc to dc converter and therefore the rail voltage is the system voltage. There is a reason why most seem to be rated close to the same value (about 22.45 watts rms per channel utilizing perfect components and 4 ohms). The maximum would be roughly double this assuming the same 13.4 volt supply or about 44.9 watts rms again assuming perfect components and a 2 ohms load. Note the magic rms value of 22.5 watts rms per channel for many head units.
Basic formulas are:
Vpp = 2 x battery voltage
13.4 x 2 = 26.8
Vrms = Vpp/(2 x sqrt of 2)
26.8/2.828 = 9.4766
P = Vrms2/R
89.8059/4 = 22.4515
Double this for 2 ohms.
As a side note for other possible wiring modifications (you guys knows which mods I mean). On such a unit, that is one that doesn't use a dc to dc converter the maximum output will follow rail voltage which is system voltage.
On a system with a dc to dc converter a good regulated unit will have a stable rail voltage as long as the system voltage is above the reference operating voltage of the regulator. For example a typical 9 volt regulator will output 9 volts anywhere from about 11 or 11.5 volts upwards to 28 volts or so. Therefore any perceived sound level benefit will most likely be coming from a poorly regulated HU and not an amplifier utilizing a dc to dc converter.
No 'blooming' should be present with voltage changes on such a system.
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#8
just wondering did anybody else have problems with their factory sound system, for me it would give out whenver I braked and took off quickly....like the speakers on the left would not gve anything out...then upon brake suddenly or taking off they would come back in and the ride side would give out
#9
just wondering did anybody else have problems with their factory sound system, for me it would give out whenver I braked and took off quickly....like the speakers on the left would not gve anything out...then upon brake suddenly or taking off they would come back in and the ride side would give out
#10
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