I am not a pro installer, but have hooked up many many set ups in multiple cars.

Im trying to see if anyone has any pointers on running wire though the molex?

Im trying to understand what makes it so hard?

Is it the awkward position of the connectors?

I really dont want to drill a new hole, so im going this route.

is the key to make sure your wires are tight and no slack??

ive read though the DIY and it seems to be fairly easy.

I guess the main thing is getting the connectors back toghter????

 

pita....absolute pita.... good luck... i have a link that will help you, i'll find it and post it later...

i did it, and once it's out its not that bad...getting it out, and then back in, absolute pita...

oh, here it is... this helped a lot http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Tutor...r_Wire_Routing

 

I understand that its not easy, and thats fine with me

anything that's worth doing is not easy

so its the getting it all back toghter thats bad?

ive worked on some pretty hard to work on places and yes it does take time and patience

 

well, if you've done it before, then you know whats instore... it's a tough process all the way through...even getting the molex out was hard for me...on the coupe, I had the hold the door almost closed and squeeze my fingers in there to pull it out ( the outside connector)

 

Take the doors off its only 5 bolts, youll save youre self the headache. Youre gonna have to drill through the molex regardless, and you have to make sure that you dont rip any wires when you drill through it.

 

well it was going ok till the sun went down....

had to stop

only got the drivers side 1/2 way done, im on getting the molex back on.

I do think im going to take the doors off, I got help tomorrow =)

hopefully it will go by fast and my CDT will shine

 

got it done!

the hardest part was getting the molex toghter

I would recommended drilling a 3/8" hole, no more

start off with a 5/16 then set it up slowly to a 3/8

The hard part everyone is saying is because there are two white "notches" you need to line up with the other connector.

after I saw that, easy street.

Took the doors off the other side and it took 30 min for the passengers side

 

also I used 16 ga for the mids and 18 ga for the tweets, fit in the 3/8" hole that was made easily

12ga that some guys are using is HUGE over kill and will only make it harder.

 

yeah, i used 14ga with techflex, it was pita but in my opinion was needed... i have a 10" dedicated midbass driver in the door...

how was taking the door off and on, any problems with alignment?

 

no problems at all, I took my time and even re routed the wires so it would look better...I know you cat see em but I feel better about it

door panels went right on. I didnt do a 8" or 10"

I went with a 6.75" sounds great

 

Sorry for the thread jack, but how did you get a 10" driver to fit in the door? I'm thinking of putting midbass speakers in the rear, how big can I go without too much custom work?

To contribute to the thread, I did the pass. side with the door attached, PITA! My hands are pretty big and I had a hard time getting in there, not to mention getting my forearm scratched up sticking my hand/arms thru the door. The driver side, I decided to pull the door off and did it that way, a little easier. The screws are a little tights trying to get them off. Also I need my wife to hold the door upright while I worked on the removal/reinstall. Listening to her complain might not have been worth it Everything installed back without any issues. The G coupe doors are frickin' heavy.

Congrats on the install.

 

doors actually went heavy on a sedan...not compared to most cars...

I dont understand why you would want a 10" in the door, when you get to that size you might as well cross them at 30hz or so and not even run a sub

you need to find a 10" with shallow depth and a small cut out, without modifying to much

 

i'm not sure why you would put midbass in the rears?? the fronts have plenty of room, but there is an assumption that you are handy with a sawsall

that was the intent actually...these are Dynaudio MW182's that are in the doors...i had to cut a larger diameter cutout, and cut some of the plastic on the door card...other than that, fits like a glove... maybe 1/4 - 1/2" clearance from the window track...

as to why? i am running a threeway upfront, midrange drivers are in the kicks, and the 10's are dedicated midbass driver...probably 200hz and down.... and they can play to 20hz if i want. i will post up some pics later when i get home from work...

 

okay, as promised here are a few pics of the 10's..







here is a pic of the clearance between the driver and the door card..



and lastly, still working on, but putting the dynaudio 152's in the kickpanels..

 

Looks good.

Congrats on the progress so far.

I ran 14ga into all 4 of my doors while still on the car. It was a pain but can be done with a good drill and some patience.