I just bought a 04 g35 coupe last wednesday (yes I'm stoked) and now need to get the sound system going. I yanked all the equipment out of my last vehicle and not exactly sure what all I want to do.

List of equipment that was pulled out of the last vehicle:

JL Audio 500/1 v2 Amp
JL Audio 300/4 v2 Amp
JL Audio 10W3v3 x 2
Alpine CDA-9887 Deck (Single DIN)
Focal Polyglass 130 V2 Fronts
Focal Access 690CA1 Rears

Enjoyed this setup in the Prelude and think it would sound even better in the G with a little more effort on the setup. Although the Bose system is decent for now, I dont think it will be able to keep me satisfied for long knowing what I'm missing out on.

My dillema is what to do on the install. Want to retain trunk space as it is my daily driver and not a showpiece. Options I have considered are subs mounted on each side of the trunk in custom boxes, "backwall" custom box, or yanking the spare out (which isnt a big deal to me) and custom fitting the subs in the spare tire well.

I've browsed through various builds on here and still am unsure of what to do. I'd appreciate any input on how to tackle this fortunate problem lol.

 

https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...lots-pics.html

 

Except that none of those pictures are working.

 

Thanks for the link. Nice setup but having speakers at my feet wouldnt work for me even if it sounded good. I like my leg room for me and passengers. But I know thats not what you were trying to show me.

Since I posted, I have read a lot more and have more questions and more decisions made. I like the idea of doing something like the 4080 boxes that im sure a few people have on here. Would likely do a dual setup for this, meaning box on each side to utilize both subs. Want to have a nice looking amp setup which I'm not sure what to do from there. For those with 4080s, has anyone done dual 4080s? How does it sound?

Another problem I am seeing is the conversion for the aftermarket stereo. I see most people either go metra or jdm, with the preference being JDM for the nicer, non-cheap look (at least that is what I gathered from posts...correct me if I am wrong). The local sound shop mentioned they had the part for $200 which at the time I didnt know the difference. I really would like to retain all features of the car so the dual-zone is important to me. I fear that if I just go with the local shop's setup, I'd likely lose this option. I'm dont feel confident to do it myself for a few reasons but especially since I am not proficient at soldering.

Is there a large enough difference between jdm and metra to go one way or the other? Also, where is the best place to purchase this?

I'm sure I'll have more questions but at the moment this is where I am stuck. Sorry if I sound like another babbling idiot but I just would rather ask a stupid question now and get an answer and get it right the first time. =)

 

Yes, the difference between Metra and JDM is clearly worth the extra $100 you pay for it. I've seen and touched both, and bought not one, but two JDM kits one for each of my G35s.

The Metra is a plastic material that is a very close color match to the metal in the car. In pictures, it can look very good (minus the buttons) but in person, the incorrect texture gives it away.

The JDM kit is the exact same material and buttons you're used to. The JDM kit just looks like it was meant to be there.

I believe that all the metra kits all have the dual button, while the JDM kits have both dual and non-dual versions. You can modify them rather simply to be dual if needed.

 

if its like the 05 and up if you replace the radio you will also need to replace the a/c controller..I have the jdm one and the new ac controller, the whole set up cost me 350.00 from grubbs infiniti. You then have to solder the dual zone button back on. looks oem though. worth it imo. you could also go the jl clean sweep route, or audiocontrol also has some nice oem intergration products. then you keep the stock dash.

 

save money on the HU and use the stock...the amps will accept the direct input (contrary to popular belief, you don't need a clean sweep or a LOC) and the stock HU is quite nice... no eq, full signaled, and is a flat signal... you will only need to splice rca ends on the wires so the amp can accept the signal.

after all is said and done, the ddin conversion can cost a pretty penny without much sound benefit... unless of course you want the benefit of watching dvd's or something...but if your goal is simply sound related, you could def save money. there is no sound benefit from upgrading the HU

 

Is this true for only certain year premium BOSE HU's, or all including 03' and 04' HU's.

 

iirc, the 03 to the 07 bose systems are the same...just the location of the amp and subs differ upon the coupe or sedan

the outputs to the bose amp is a balanced differential signal, which inherently has much better noise rejection than rca's, and so it's best to keep it that signal, instead of using loc (which is pointless, as there is no high level signal). Finding an amp that accepts balanced input is becoming easier as more and more manufacturers are making that capability. JL is one of them

 

while I cannot argue with mattyjman as I am no expert on the stock systems and how they are engineered, I can tell you that I installed the AVIC Z110BT (with an assist going to Wrathernaut) this weekend and I could not be happier... This is, for the time being, only a head unit swap, but you seem to have a lot of other gear already...

P.S. I would go with the JDM finisher...it is an exact match to the stock piece I removed...Yes the gaps around the Double Din Pioneer in the JDM is an issue, I addressed it by using a Scosche trim ring for a Nissan Titan that cost me 30 bucks and a little modification and sanding and it looks pretty damn good if I do say so myself!

 

Thats good information to know. I'm updating my system presently as well and got a JL Audio 500/5 amp new for about $300.00 bucks and then updating all my speakers all around (again!) including a 12" sub.

Differential works great in that it basically zeros out any common mode noise induced on the signal lines. For example, if you run your RCA cables along a power current in the car (wire or chassis), that will induce noise in both the signal and its return wire equally. Since differential input basically subtracts the +/- wire, any noise common to both is cancelled out. Doesn't do anything for differential noise though.

But anyways, good to know that keeping the existing HU is a "good" option as I can't afford a new one now anyways, nor do i really plan to!

 

i know that some of the bose HU have problems and eventually die out, but until then, on a pure sq basis, there really isn't a performance increase with an aftermarket HU. The only caveat with that is if you want "other" features like watching dvds...however if you have the factory nav you can do that as well.

When i was considering my build, i basically factored in 1K for the DDIN unit, face plate, ipod integration, steering wheel controls, harnesses, etc. and that was alot for such a little improvement in sq. saving 1k on something like that means that you can spend much more on the things that matter, like amps, sub, proper install, sound deadening, etc. the opportunities are endless, but it's all spent on pieces in the system that would matter "sq"-wise.

most people who refer to keeping the stock HU and not liking it, typically have installed the system improperly. Either they used a line out converter (not needed) or used an amp with high level inputs (again, not correct), or used a cleansweep, rf 3.sixty type processor that "cleans up" the signal. All these will do in this case is degrade the signal and quality, and possibly introduce noise into the system.

I have gotten far enough into my own install that I can say that there is virtually no difference between the factory HU and an aftermarket. If there was, I would change it out faster than you can say "______". I have it currently going through Zapco DC Reference Amps and Dynaudio speakers. There is no hiss, no noise, and no hint at your "typicall" HU crapiness.

If you go this route, the only thing I would reccomend is a balanced line driver to amplify the signal going to the amps. Rockford fosgate makes one for around $100, just don't be confused with a regular line driver. This piece again, needs to accept balanced input and output a balanced signal.

 

So it's not necessary to hook anything up to the HU? Just splice RCA's into the stock amp and the remote wire? I'm fairly content with the stock speakers I just want to add a sub.

 

Depends on the amp.

The only issue is that the signal from the stock HU is very low level.

The SNR of the low level HU signal will be much less than the SNR of a high level HU signal. The differential input on an amp helps this SNR as it rejects common mode noise induced on the wires. If your amp only has single-ended inputs, then it won't benefit from common mode rejection like the differential input amp has.

 

yep, that's the simplest option for adding a sub, and there is a sticky on that as well...check it out. the only caveat, is that you need an amp that accepts balanced inputs... all that do, except for zapco , do it in an rca format, not like what you would typically see with the high level inputs on lower quality amps

so, for example, if you had a jl amp (cause they are common on this forum) all you would want to do is to tap the signal, splice the rca with the + wire and - wire, tap the remote wire (may want a relay), then run power and ground, then you are good to go.

one other thing that is helpful is if the amp you choose has a remote gain control or bass boost to help you control the volume. otherwise you can disconnect the rear speakers, and use the fader on the stock HU to somewhat moderate the sub level by using the rear outputs from the HU on the sub amp...