KPierson is the man

 

Pierson--

I tested all the wires at the switch... all 0. There is power coming to and from the harness though. I think its the switch now. That would conclude the window not working since "everything isn't plugged in." Also- whenever I open the door, there is a brief sound that comes from the door itself. It sounds like a gear is turning or something of the nature. I'm going to get a replacement switch and see where that gets me. If that doesn't work, I'll let you know about that harness.

 

There is nothing wrong with the switch - if you don't have power getting to it of course it won't work. You need to reexamine your connector in the door. You need to try to test power on the cabin side of the connector between the white power wire and ground (any ground). If you have power on the cabin side but not in the door then you know your problem is in the connector. Either the connector isn't seated properly or you damaged more wires then you realized.

 

I think I misread something somewhere....

So are you saying there is power between the white wire and the black wire on the switch but all other wires read 0?

Does the door lock switch work?

 

Alright here we go lol

I tested the power for the wires in the cabin. The white wire has power. The black wire doesn't (since it is ground I'm assuming).

There are 4 yellow wires. I tested each with a continuity tester, and they all had no power (did not make the tester light up) except for the yellow wire with a green stripe. When I tested that wire, my driver's side window rolled down. I then pressed the passenger side switch to see if anything worked, and the window rolled down. The window would not roll back up though??

The white wire has power all the way to the switch. I'm very confused now.

And the door lock does not work using the passengers side switch, but using the left side or the key remote it works.

 

here are some pics of my mess. the connectors fit snug, with or without the speaker wire. I just don't see how the window could have stopped working.

 

I have Navi if that makes any kind of a difference with the harness btw.

 

When doing your testing you need to be using that black wire as the ground - if the black wire has been damaged or isn't making a connection that could be your problem.

You should also be using a digital volt meter, not a test light

You should be able to use a continuity tester to test the wire from inside the cabin to the switch - you are looking for close to 0 ohms.

 

Alright I went back and tested the wires with the ground. They all read their own specific numbers... the ground is working and connected.

Another thing: when i press the passenger side window switch down, it makes a clicking sound, as if it wants to work. Up does nothing. Are there 2 separate relays for up and down? This is getting annoying...

 

Since the relays are inside the switch there are no diagrams for them. I would assume there are two total relays and each one rests at ground. The issue here, though, is that if a relay is clicking in the down position it should be clicking in the up position too, because they are all fed from the same power supply. Maybe the switch was somehow damaged somehow - that would surprise me but I guess it is possible.

 

--- I just got done talking to the shop on the phone. They said it would NOT be the passenger side switch, if anything it would be the main switch. I just noticed that the button to make the passenger side window inoperable is NOT illuminated. 1. Is it supposed to be illuminated? 2. Could it possibly have shorted out/ not be connected so that the passenger window will not work? This might explain why when I grounded that specific wire the window rolled down, but not up.... Maybe. Any ideas?

 

Just to let everyone know-- its not the wiring in the molex. I did a reset on the driver's side window and the right side began to work. Def a switch prob.