^
hey we did 2 10" sony explode subs w/ sony amp in my boy 350z. I was amazed actually. But i rather spend more money on a better sound system.

 

Here are some prices I got from a local Audio shop.

- JL Audio 300/4 v2 AMP $400.00 (new)
- JL Audio 500/1 v2 AMP $420.00 (new)
- JL Audio 1000/1 v2 AMP $770 (new)
- JL Audio W7 13.5" $700.00 (new)
- JL Audio W7 12" $530.00 (new)
- JL Audio W6 12" $350.00 (new)
- JL Audio W3 12" $170.00 (new)

 

i have 2 fairly new JL amps that have been taken out of a showcar. barely used. 1000/1 and 450/4. lmk if your interested and ill take some pics and get you more info. i could let them go for $440 each.

 

Have you listened to all the subs you are considering? Make sure you do if you haven't already. The 2v1 sub is a subjective question, but if you prefer to stay with 1, a ported box will help get more out of the sub. I would also second blaze's recommendation on the ed NINe.1 amp. It will save you a good amount of money and it should fit your needs fine. Also, dont forget to budget in your sub enclosure and wiring.

 

those prices are way to high.

I mean if you wanna run JL thats fine, but I think for $500-$700 you can do much better.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=293-658

two of those are $540 shipped and they sound much better.I have heard the W7 and its good but for the price...not really.

 

I read most of the thread but here's my take.

With 1k you have plenty of money to do what you want.

DO NOT get kicker. IMO it's too muddy. Yes it can get loud but I hear too much distortion with all their subs. Speakers, I've only a heard one set that sounded decent, can't remember which.

I wouldn't go with their amps unless it's the KX or older, so them being new is out the gameplan. I had a ZX 2500.1 and it would get extremely hot. I went with an RF t30001.bd and it stayed cooler. Even when I was in 110+ degree weather (trunk being much hotter) it stayed a ton cooler.

Someone already mentioned Fi, great subs to go with. I'd go with a single Fi Q, or you can go with dual.

Here's the thing. If you want low end, you're going to lean to more cone area. To figure cone area you get the diamter, divide by 2, and multiply that by the number you got. With that, multiply by 3.14 and you have your cone area. Multiply by the amount of subs you have. I was going to go with a single 15 but 2 12s yield more cone area. Here's an example:

2 12's: 12 / 2 = 6. 6 * 6 = 36. 36 * 3.14 = 113.04 * 2 = 226.08 sq. in. of cone area.
1 15: 15 / 2 = 7.5. 7.5 * 7.5 = 56.25 *3.14 = 176.625 sq. in.

Problem with going with 2 subs means more power. A lot of these single sub setups can get louder than multiple sub setups. I used to have a single 10 off 750w that would get quite louder than a pair of 15's. Enclosure is key. Anyway, back to having a single sub. Some of these subs can be rated at say 600w but easily take 1,000w. Now if you have two, then you're gonna need an amp that puts out more power, so it may be better to go with a single sub than two, especially if you can give it it's optimum power.

Here's some other subs to consider:

Mach 5 IXL: http://www.mach5audio.com/zen/index....2e6e580ea8088f

Pretty much any sub by TC Sounds / Audiopulse. TC Sounds used to make drivers for Eclipse. They changed to Audiopulse, a couple years ago. From my experience, these subs are great for getting low and getting loud and are highly underrated. Just noticed blazeplacid beat me to mentioning TC sounds. I owned an LMS-4000, played with it a lil bit but only in Home Audio. Got extremely low, but it needed more power and my Dayton 1,000w amp didn't really put out that much power.

http://www.parts-express.com/wizards...TOKEN=86086038

I have a buddy that can build you subs, not gonna be warrantied though. There is a member on audio forums by the name of Team PSI and they make subs as well, not sure if they're warrantied.

I know of people that had an SI Mag and loved it, not sure if they still make them, but the BM is now around. (www.stereointegrity.com).

Image Dynamics makes great drivers. The new IDQ V3 is a huge improvement over the V1 and V2 versions. The IDMAX is an excellent driver.

JL makes good subs but they are pricey and IMO not worth the price unless you can get a good deal on them. I would also get the older models (V1) over any of the newer ones, they just seem to be better.

Sundown Audio and Sound Solutions Audio make great drivers.

The subs I went with are by a new company called Subtilis Audio, but will be under the name of SKAR. Group by right now for pre-orders and are EXTREMELY cheap for 12's. For under 3 bills shipped you'll get some great drivers (owner of Sundown assisted with the build of these drivers).
As for an amp, it really depends what sub you go with because then you can figure out what impedence you need to run it at and how much power.

If you add an amp to the stock speakers you'll notice a huge improvement. But since you're going to be spending the money, upgrade the speakers and get an amp for the fronts. No need to get rear speakers, waste of money.

What head unit do you have by the way? Chances are that the pre out voltage on it is low. I remember having an Eclipse 8443 (8v pre-outs) and went to an Alpine W-200 (2v preouts) and nothing else changed and I had a significant decrease in output.

I know of people who can build you an enclosure as well and I believe there are some in the SD area.

As for the speakers, PG RSD's are supposed to be some good sounding components, great midbass, highs are decent, but they are about ~$60 brand new, so well worth the money. I heard the PG RSDC subs (ones with the black cone, not silver) are pretty good too and those are quite inexpensive.

 

^^
Thanks a bunch Don.

It's been really hard for me to choose.

As of right now I have a Pioneer P4100DVD

So your saying 1 12" sub would be perfect?

 

Yep, depending on the sub a single 12 will be plenty. I'd recommend a sub that can handle around 1k - 1,500w.

That HU has 4V pre-outs...that's good.

You can get a sub and amp for roughly 300-600. Box would be 150-200. Depending on the front speakers you get you can pay between 50 and 200 and for an amp for the speakers it would be about 150-200.

It can be done for close to 6 bills but can cost up to 1,200 so you can definitely stick to your price range. All depends on what equipment you go with, and you don't necessarily have to spend more to have it be better.

Sometimes having different brand amps will make things a little easier but I prefer them to be matching, just looks nicer. Could always hide the amps or only make one visible.

 

So long as you have plenty of amp to push it right.

My old car had a pair of 10's and were sharing 400watts, they hit nowhere near as clean and hard as my JL 10w6v2 on a JL 500/1v2 amp.

As hard and clean as that 10" hits, a quality 12" with full power would definitely be more than enough to fill your car.

 

I'm a novice at best, but I can tell you that I am happy with my Image dynamics IDQ10V.3.
It's in a zenclosure powered by a jl xd 400/4 bridged. It's tight and clean. I listen to mostly rock music though. I'm just trying to fix my fronts but that's another story.

 

I'd like to add that you don't need the 1k -1,500w sub, it's just nice to have that if you're looking to get pretty loud. But as wrathernaut mentioned, giving a sub it's optimal power handling, it'll be plenty.

 

I almost went with the IDQ, but since the 10w6 was only $30 more, I just decided to go with it instead. Very happy with it.

 

OK tell me if this is a good set up

JL 12" W6
JL AUDIO 1000/1
JL AUDIO 300/4 AMP TO PUSH THE BOSE. (NOT UPGRADING INTERIOR SPEAKERS AS OF YET) MY BOY HAVE A 300/4 AMP PUSHING HIS BOSE SPEAKERS AND IT SOUNDS PEEEEEERRRFECT.

WILL THAT SET UP WORK?

 

does it have to be JL?

They make good stuff but its kinda like Apple computers to me

Its good stuff but a bit over priced

 

^^^

Agreed.

Unless you're getting deep discounts on it, I'd go another route. I think the 300/4 is also way too much power for the stock mids.

I would go with another brand for amp and subs and fit in some front components in there. Easily doable.