New G....what to get??? AUDIO HELp 06 coupe
#1
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Im purchasing my G this coming up weekend and i know one of the first things i want to do is get a good audio system. I want to get the screen display but not looking for anything crazy expensive but will spend some good money for that sick system...Need any advice is anyone out there knows of what will work....06 coupe btw
#3
#4
probably recomend 1 (or 2) 10's and a 500-1000 watt amp for the sub(s) (stay away from JL Audio for both of these. that will eat up your entire budget) I'd probably run the factory radio though since that alone could easily eat up about $600 of your budget. Make sure to use quality 4 gauge power wire for the setup.
#5
#6
600 is an extremely low price (homie hookup) figure $300 for JDM dash kit, $500+ for double din screen, then you also have the wiring harness, and other install parts needed. Shop labor is ontop of that. ($600 price was simply using a cd/mp3 player, no double din aka screen).
Coupe has 6 speakers; 6.5" in each door, 6.5" in both back seat side pannels, 2 6x9" in the rear deck, if you have bose add a junk sub to that listing (size of sub unknown, works great as a refridgerator magnet). I believe the bose system has tweaters in the triangle pods on the door...anyone confirm if thats just bose or if all g35's have 'em?
Coupe has 6 speakers; 6.5" in each door, 6.5" in both back seat side pannels, 2 6x9" in the rear deck, if you have bose add a junk sub to that listing (size of sub unknown, works great as a refridgerator magnet). I believe the bose system has tweaters in the triangle pods on the door...anyone confirm if thats just bose or if all g35's have 'em?
#7
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#8
ok thats what i was figuring, i know its alot but i like to have nice things and honestly think it will be worth it, and ok thanks again this is for sure helping me out and should be getting my G this friday or saturday soits appreciated...and ok so is that usually the screen that most people get? idc what kind i get but looks nice and would definitely be willing to pay that much for it
#10
#11
I would save a little more and go to an authorized dealer on what you want to buy. Thats just me. If something goes wrong go to the shop no problem swap out for new.
I have 2-10inch kicker cvx subs, 2 memphis amps 1000.1 and a 400.4 i believe, diamond audio components throughout that replaced my bose speakers, and stinger wire throughout. i still want to get more sounds done too.I like nice things and nice sounds too, this was over your budget but wanted it done.![Big Grin](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Just take your time and do it right if your on a tight bidget.
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Just take your time and do it right if your on a tight bidget.
#12
yeah i can save up more money, and i know "itsmy04G35" said to stay away from JL but what does everyone think about them? and if i were to get them would you say one 10W7? or maybe two 10W6v2? also what would the amp need to be on those....500 for the first option? 1000 for the second?? any ideas
#14
im liking the cleaner bass though...instead of the bvvvvvv....sound if you know how some peoples bass sounds...and your right they are overpriced but if you were to set it up in an 06 coupe any ideas? suggestions? about the 10W7?or maybe two 10W6? idk THANKS AGAIN haha sorry dont know ****
#15
We all have to start somewhere.
Look into other brands, as far as amps go. I run 2 Planet Audio BB1350.1 amps to my 2 RE Audio 10" subs (in a pickup truck). It's loud, but it's clean bass. Definately not the "best" by any means, but for slightly more than the price of 1 JL 500/1 amp i was able to pick up 1 of my PA amps and push over twice as much power.
There are a number of factors that give you "dirty bass" for lack of a better term. Box, subwoofer, amplifier tune, and even the car are all factors. Using a box that does not have the air space for the woofer to function propperly will sound like crap and puts tons of pressure on the woofer. If you buy a junk walmart woofer and put a good amount of power to it the sub will sound like garbage and eventually cook itself. If the tune on the amplifier isn't done correctly, the same result will occur.
For an entry level system, go for something around 500 watts. That will be more than enough sound for your "virgin ears" lol
Remember "max power" means NOTHING. Max power is usually found when the test vehicle is running at 20+ volts from the alternator. Without modifications to your charging system your car will be running around 13-14volts while driving, for comparison.
What you need to look at is RMS power. Can't remember what the letters RMS stand for off the top of my head (damn caronas), but that number is more realistic to the power you will actually be getting. Make sure that the RMS power of the subwoofer is close to the RMS power of your amplifier. Otherwise you'll be replacing subwoofers left and right. Likewise, if you get a woofer thats over rated for your amp, the subwoofer will be "underworked" and will eventually cook itself.
Look into other brands, as far as amps go. I run 2 Planet Audio BB1350.1 amps to my 2 RE Audio 10" subs (in a pickup truck). It's loud, but it's clean bass. Definately not the "best" by any means, but for slightly more than the price of 1 JL 500/1 amp i was able to pick up 1 of my PA amps and push over twice as much power.
There are a number of factors that give you "dirty bass" for lack of a better term. Box, subwoofer, amplifier tune, and even the car are all factors. Using a box that does not have the air space for the woofer to function propperly will sound like crap and puts tons of pressure on the woofer. If you buy a junk walmart woofer and put a good amount of power to it the sub will sound like garbage and eventually cook itself. If the tune on the amplifier isn't done correctly, the same result will occur.
For an entry level system, go for something around 500 watts. That will be more than enough sound for your "virgin ears" lol
Remember "max power" means NOTHING. Max power is usually found when the test vehicle is running at 20+ volts from the alternator. Without modifications to your charging system your car will be running around 13-14volts while driving, for comparison.
What you need to look at is RMS power. Can't remember what the letters RMS stand for off the top of my head (damn caronas), but that number is more realistic to the power you will actually be getting. Make sure that the RMS power of the subwoofer is close to the RMS power of your amplifier. Otherwise you'll be replacing subwoofers left and right. Likewise, if you get a woofer thats over rated for your amp, the subwoofer will be "underworked" and will eventually cook itself.