So after searching all night and kind of narrowing down my issues, I still wanted to make a post, I was going to install my pioneer avic d3 with a metra kit. and as I am going to pull my factory deck out everything is going well and I am pretty impressed with how fast its going and then I go to pull the 10 pin plug out of the back of the deck, and BAM all of the F#$^%@^ pins come flying out of the deck, I did alot of searching and I know I am not the first one this happened to, but in another thread I found that crutchfield had a diagram for the factory bose pin out on that plug, and I am fairly certain I got it all back in the correct way minus a couple concerns, The solid red wire goes into pin #9, however that location on the metra harness is empty and has no wire for it to connect to. Either way I am pretty sure its all correct. My biggest issue right now is that, after this all happened. Now the radio does not power on at all, and when I goto turn my headlights on everything goes out, the dashlights, and the hvac lights, and the compass is not displaying. When the lights are off the hvac is on, and I do have controll over it with the metra kit. So to wrap things up, There was a thread made by a guy who pretty much had the IDENTICAL issue, and it ended up being his dimmer switch, which wouldn't surprise me because when the pins flew out Id be shocked if something didnt short or blow a fuse. However all of the fuses are fine, I did read to check the "mirror" fuse, which I will do later today. But is there anyway I can bypass the dimmer switch just to see if thats what my issue is? like can I jump the wires on the plug to see if it fixes things? OR is there anyways for me to test the dimmer switch? ANY other thoughts? please help guys.

 

I guess Im presented with another issue now, When they say the dimmer switch goes out. Does that mean the controll that comes off the steering wheel that controls the headlights and what not, or is it that adjustment **** down by the bottom, I had thought it was the lower ****, besides everything else works thats on that rod including the fogs and what not.


ok thanks again for the help.

 

Damn that sucks ! That's why I couldn't trust myself to install my dd and headunit lol. I went to bestbuy and got it installed , no problems after over year now (knock on wood ) . But the bestbuy installer has a g35 coupe so I was in luck since he knew everything about installing a dd and headunits , he also installed my PAC steering wheel unit


But my advice is maybe check out bestbuy and let them see what's wrong

Gl

 

well I am confident in how I have the dd installed, I have installed COUNTless decks into tons of different kinds of cars, my concern insnt really how the deck is installed, its just either that 10 pin plug, or some other source causing the dash light issues, like a fuse, or the dimmer switch.

 

more info, I guess everything is leading me to the dimmer switch, and what I mean is the (interior illumination switch) which is part M7 or something. I found a new one on ebay for 25 bucks, the dealer wants 96$ for one, lol. Im just struggling to spend money and invest in this part when I still dont know for certain that its causing the problem, My dome lights work fine, my tailights work fine, everything works fine except the dashlights, compass, radio, and hvac (when I flip the headlights on) Im just freakin praying its not the bcm.

 

You can find the service manuals here to check the wiring for the harness:
www.psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/

Check all the fuses with a multimeter (remember, two fuse boxes in the battery compartment and one in the driver's kick panel.

For others reading this (not just the OP), this is your reminder of how important it is to:
A) Not have the battery connected when working on anything electrical.
B) Not connecting the battery if you're guessing at any of the wire's you're connecting.

 

yea I feel like a moron. I remember thinking to myself that I should disconnect the battery, but I just got lazy. BIG mistake.

 

and what exactly am I going to be looking for when I check the fuses w the meter?

 

Of course, have the battery disconnected before you start.

Set it to Ω (Ohms).
Touch the two multimeter leads together, you should get a low non-zero number if it's set right and you're plugged into the right spots in your multimeter (if it has multiple holes for the leads). If your multimeter has multiple Ω settings, switch it while the two leads touch each other until you get a small number on the display.

Remove each fuse, put a lead on either terminal of the fuse (which lead goes to which side doesn't matter). Depending on the meter, it may just stay "0" when there's no connection, if it changes to a low non-zero number, it's good. If you're using an analog meter, and it moves, you're good.
If it stays 0 or the analog meter doesn't move, it's blown.

 

and from looking at manual there, from what I can tell I do infact have the pins back in the correct spot. So now I guess I need to start checking all the other stuff. Ugh.

 

ok so I am testing each fuse, either looking for zero, or a number lower than zero. Ill check that today, Also do you think I'd be able to somehow jump the dimmer switch? I think there is 3 wires coming out of it, 2 power and a ground, if I just body ground the one, and then connect the other 2 would this jump it? or should I just wait for my new switch to come in?
Thanks for all of your help, I really do appreciate it.

 

Number higher than zero, there's no such thing as negative ohms, unless, of course your car stopped following the laws of physics.

No, don't go rewiring things. That's how fires and blown fuses happen.

 

Ok so here's a weird update. I got a multimeter, and just checked to see if the wires going into my deck were live or not, and sure enough my yellow 12v wire was getting 12v, and with the key on the red wire was also, so I was stumped as to why the radio wasnt working, so I figure last thing to check is the ground. So I had added an extra ground that I was going to run to the body anyways, I just touched it to the metal in the car, and viola the deck turned on, So now my deck is working, however only with that extra ground, My question is whats wrong with the ground in my harness? I know the wires are connected fine, I am kind of stumped here.
And on to the next issue, I have a Avic-D3, and I plugged in the metra kit to the Front outs, and Rear outs. I still have sub/non-fading outs I could use. But Im just using the front and rear rca outputs, I shut the deck off then went into the functions and turned the outputs to "full" instead of subwoofer, now my issue is the sound quality is just crap, and Its not very loud. I dont think I am having the same problem as others with it being extremely quiet, because its not that bad it still gets pretty loud. But the quality of the sound just sucks. I dont know if I have the rca's plugged in backwards or what, but I have the grey and white from the metra kit going to the front outputs, and the green and purple going to the rears, I have the fronts connected white-white, and grey-red, and the rears are green-white and purple-red, I tried mixing them around and I just can not get it to sound decent, ive been all over inside the deck trying to adjust the settings, with the hpf, and turning on the subwoofer on the deck does provide better base, but I just cant get it to sound good. I miss how awesome my factory bose sounded and going into this install all I wanted to do was improve it, not make it worse. Some one help please!!! hahah ( and I still have no dash lights, but I am waiting for my dimmer switch to come in the mail to see whats up with that)

 

Well, since it hasn't been mentioned, I'm going to guess you're an 03-04, and you're using the 70-7551?

Regardless, you'll probably want to use the PAC ROEM-NIS instead of the 70-7551. There's a few that have had 03-04s working with the 70-7551, but it seems more common to not work in those years.

Even though both 03-04 and 05-07s use differential-balanced signals between the factory headunit and the Bose amp, it seems the 03-04s suffer much greater when sending an unbalanced signal to the Bose headunit.

 

Yes. And that's kind of a relief to hear because I was afraid it was going to be something with my wiring again, knowing that its common let's me rest as ease alittle. I was looking at the pac and it looks like you just wire the colored speaker wires and you don't have to mess with the rcs cables. Do you have any thoughts about my factory ground not working? Thanks again for all the help man.