Bose 8" "Woofer" Information/Measurements
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Pennsylvania

Bose 8" "Woofer" Information/Measurements
Finally removed this POS from my rear deck yesterday, and figured I'd measure things up for those looking to place something better in the rear deck in its place.
First - these are physical measurements only. I can't say what the power going to the Bose "sub" are, and Bose doesn't produce specifications on its products. I don't have the equipment to test it myself either.
Second, the reason I keep putting "sub" and "woofer" in quotes, is because even as far as shallow mount woofers and subs go, this is just pathetic to call it such is an insult to real subs and woofers.
I can't imagine this thing being able to move more than a half inch in either direction, and there's only about 6" of actual "cone" diameter. Again, it's not an actual cone, but more of a flattened speaker with a little bit of flexibility to let it move.
This thing being listed as a 8" woofer is really pushing the boundaries of truth.

The depth of the "cone" is only about 1.5", with a magnet sticking up about 1" above that, with a basket beneath it, which extends down for about 4" below the face of the deck. Not sure why it goes down so far, there's no way the cone could move anywhere near that far, the wires wouldn't reach more than a quarter inch in any direction.

The cutout in the rear deck is right around 7"


You have over 4" of space beneath the deck before you hit the trunk carpet under the rear deck. (picture didn't turn out, sorry)
First - these are physical measurements only. I can't say what the power going to the Bose "sub" are, and Bose doesn't produce specifications on its products. I don't have the equipment to test it myself either.
Second, the reason I keep putting "sub" and "woofer" in quotes, is because even as far as shallow mount woofers and subs go, this is just pathetic to call it such is an insult to real subs and woofers.
I can't imagine this thing being able to move more than a half inch in either direction, and there's only about 6" of actual "cone" diameter. Again, it's not an actual cone, but more of a flattened speaker with a little bit of flexibility to let it move.
This thing being listed as a 8" woofer is really pushing the boundaries of truth.

The depth of the "cone" is only about 1.5", with a magnet sticking up about 1" above that, with a basket beneath it, which extends down for about 4" below the face of the deck. Not sure why it goes down so far, there's no way the cone could move anywhere near that far, the wires wouldn't reach more than a quarter inch in any direction.

The cutout in the rear deck is right around 7"


You have over 4" of space beneath the deck before you hit the trunk carpet under the rear deck. (picture didn't turn out, sorry)
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,993
Likes: 1,050
From: Pennsylvania

Well, in that space, there's a few different 8" woofers that'll fit. But without upgrading the amplifier as well, nothing's going to be worth it.
You're also very unlikely to find one that can use the stock screw holes, but a small adapter ring or drilling your own mounting holes in the rear deck (or a combination of the two) would easily fix that problem.
But an inexpensive little JL amplifier will take the Bose headunit's differential-balanced signal, and give you plenty of kick for a decent 8" woofer like Image Dynamic's IDQ8V.3-4.
You're also very unlikely to find one that can use the stock screw holes, but a small adapter ring or drilling your own mounting holes in the rear deck (or a combination of the two) would easily fix that problem.
But an inexpensive little JL amplifier will take the Bose headunit's differential-balanced signal, and give you plenty of kick for a decent 8" woofer like Image Dynamic's IDQ8V.3-4.
Thanks, I think im finally going to bit the bullet and buy it,
Had two questions,
Is that amp just going to power the sub or is that going to power the whole car?
Also if my HU craps out which i think it is( maybe 2-3 times it shut off and wouldn't turn back on until hrs later)
Would that amp still work okay with an aftermarket HU?
Thanks!
Had two questions,
Is that amp just going to power the sub or is that going to power the whole car?
Also if my HU craps out which i think it is( maybe 2-3 times it shut off and wouldn't turn back on until hrs later)
Would that amp still work okay with an aftermarket HU?
Thanks!
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,993
Likes: 1,050
From: Pennsylvania

Fill all the voids in the rear deck with minimal expanding foam and put some deadener - I'm a huge fan of http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com 's CLD tiles - on about 25% of the rear deck. That should keep it solid.
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,993
Likes: 1,050
From: Pennsylvania

Yep.
Remove the rear seats completely.
Remove the trim along the sides of the seats.
Remove the trim above the rear deck.
Remove the rear deck.
Remove the Bose sub.
Remove the rear seats completely.
Remove the trim along the sides of the seats.
Remove the trim above the rear deck.
Remove the rear deck.
Remove the Bose sub.
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,993
Likes: 1,050
From: Pennsylvania

The bose amp can't even power the sub that was built for it, so you'd be wasting you time, but you'd plug the sub into the wires that went into the bose sub.
ok, i thought maybe you could just run it from the main amplifier. Now does anyone have a picture of the main amplifier connector to the little amp under the sub for some reason i took all the wires out of the connector and now i cant remember i were they went. so if i could get some help so that i can rewire my sub i would really appreciate it! thanks in advance!
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