new battery in the trunk
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From: Brooklyn New York
I must have missed the part where you explain how you blew a 2000w rated sub with a 2200w amp. "Lowered the bass"?
1. Where's your LPF set at? What slope?
2. What's your HU, and what are the preamps rated at? (don't know your system)
2a. How high is the non fading (sub) preamp level set at?
2b. Are you using bass boost from the HU, or any loudness-type feats?
2c. Using a test tone, how high can you go on the volume scale before the signal clips? (i.e. did you remain under unclipped HU power)
3. What's the amp gain/sensitivity scale i.e. lowest & highest voltage levels taken in?
4. Did you build your ported enclosure within the parameters set by Fi? What's the tuning freq of the port?
If you have a hard time answering any of those questions, and considering you're running a 200+ amp system without a HO alt, don't be surprised you're having issues - sorry.
1. Where's your LPF set at? What slope?
2. What's your HU, and what are the preamps rated at? (don't know your system)
2a. How high is the non fading (sub) preamp level set at?
2b. Are you using bass boost from the HU, or any loudness-type feats?
2c. Using a test tone, how high can you go on the volume scale before the signal clips? (i.e. did you remain under unclipped HU power)
3. What's the amp gain/sensitivity scale i.e. lowest & highest voltage levels taken in?
4. Did you build your ported enclosure within the parameters set by Fi? What's the tuning freq of the port?
If you have a hard time answering any of those questions, and considering you're running a 200+ amp system without a HO alt, don't be surprised you're having issues - sorry.
i cant answer all of them, my audio guy did all the tuning,
headunit is pioneer DEH-P980BT
and yes i built the box within the parameters set by fi, tuned to 32 HZ
i know i need the alt, just havent gotten it yet.
As far as the issues comment, im not having any issues, reason why i think it blew the second time is because it wasnt reconed properly.
I hope you dynamat the trunk well. That seems like overkill. I have a 10" IDMAX in modded 4080 box pushed with 750watts and I cracked not only my rearview mirror base 2x but also cracked the windshield a few times. I bet it sounds good though.
Last edited by bmpnride; Apr 3, 2013 at 12:51 PM.
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From: Brooklyn New York
trunk hasnt been dynamted yet, going to be doing that soon. I just ordered the alternator today. Really you cracked the windshield a few times?... i havent cracked that yet lol, i get alot of roof flex though alot alot. did u dynamat urs?
I had my trunk lid dampened with fat mat. Its cheaper than dynamat and works great. I now gave the whole bottom of my trunk lined as well. The windshield I cracked was not oem. I have since had it replacedso it may have been cheap glass. The rearview mirror in our cars do suck. They are so heavy. I'm afraid i will snap the base again.
I had my trunk lid dampened with fat mat. Its cheaper than dynamat and works great. I now gave the whole bottom of my trunk lined as well. The windshield I cracked was not oem. I have since had it replacedso it may have been cheap glass. The rearview mirror in our cars do suck. They are so heavy. I'm afraid i will snap the base again.
Using a vibration dampener like dynamat or fat mat is unnecessary and expensive. Only about 25% of each panel needs to be covered. The dampener is the equivalent to touching your finger to a ringing bell, you don't need to touch the whole thing to stop vibration. To stop noise going through, you need to lay down a barrier of a combination of closed-cell foam and mass-loaded vinyl.
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Brooklyn New York
Dynamat is probably the most expensive and among the worst of the batch of vibration dampener. Fat Mat is one of the better brands that is easy to get your hands on.
Using a vibration dampener like dynamat or fat mat is unnecessary and expensive. Only about 25% of each panel needs to be covered. The dampener is the equivalent to touching your finger to a ringing bell, you don't need to touch the whole thing to stop vibration. To stop noise going through, you need to lay down a barrier of a combination of closed-cell foam and mass-loaded vinyl.
Using a vibration dampener like dynamat or fat mat is unnecessary and expensive. Only about 25% of each panel needs to be covered. The dampener is the equivalent to touching your finger to a ringing bell, you don't need to touch the whole thing to stop vibration. To stop noise going through, you need to lay down a barrier of a combination of closed-cell foam and mass-loaded vinyl.
yeah dynamat is overpriced, i was thinking about using some sound deadner from home depot, about 12 dollars a roll, seen alot of people on youtube use it. what kind of foam r u talking about?
The foam is vinyl-nitrile closed-cell foam, like this:
Basically, just take 15min and read through the main page of this site:
http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/
It will give you all the knowledge you need to start making good decisions about sound deadening. The guy who runs it is awesome too. Started out just comparing products, but by doing so, got in touch with the manufacturers and had stuff made that exceeded whatever else was out there.
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