Hey guys,

I recently finished up doing a install in my 2005 Coupe (used to have bose system now thats gone thank god).

Anyway I mounted my alpine pdx-v9 amp in the same location the Bose factory amp was located. A friend and I modified the stock amp bracket to make it fit the Alpine (small amp).

Now I get Electrical Whine in the system when the car is on. However when the car is off and in accessory only no whine (so I assume ground issue).

Where is a good place to bolt ground wire in the 05 Coupe that's close to the stock Bose amp location.

I know I can use seat belt bolts but then my ground would be way to long (greater than 2 feet).

Thanks

 

Can't see your pictures but 2 feet is not the "maximum" you can go..... yes, guidelines are good but you CAN go further than that if needed. Just make sure you scrape the paint from whatever location you use. I personally used self tapping screws and screwed mine into a piece of the trunk that didn't go to the outside and no where near the fuel tank.....

Make sure that amp can be mounted upside down as well. I have encountered an upside down limitation on inverters over 1200 watts before. Just a hunch.

Also, my amp is mounted against the seats and my ground isn't longer than a foot....

 

SergentRed did you have any electrical whine with your system initially?

I think you should be able to see the pictures now I was trying to figure out how to link pictures inline with post using dropbox earlier.

 

pictures aren't your fault, it's my work filters. No whine here.

 

has anyone ever heard of grounding their rca's?

 

Like other members have suggested, make sure your amplifer ground is a good one.

More than likely your problem is emf interference between the power wire running to your new amplifer, and the rca cables running from the head unit to the amplifier. Make sure that these rca's are routed under the carpet far from the power cable, as when the vehicle is turned on you will get wine transmitted through the speakers from the alternator which should sound rpm dependent. Let me know if this helps!

 

If you get whine from your power wire being too close to your RCAs, you have power issues. Separating the power wire from the audio signal will only mask the problem. You should be able to run your shielded RCAs right next to the power without an issue. Fix the ground or remove the source of interference instead of pretending the real problem isn't there.

 

On top of what Wrathernaut said, what kind of RCAs are you using? I always assume the person I'm talking to is a noob so no offense.

If you are using a home RCA style you will probably have issues.

If you are using non-twisted you may have issues.

Try using a Twisted pair.

Also, what brand of power wire are you using??? Some brands just don't measure up to say Knu Konceptz and others of this quality. The shielding in the power wire may be inadequate and causing your issues.

Check that all ends of the RCA cables are properly seated. Sometimes when you insert your deck the RCAs loosen and that may be causing the issue as well.

On another thought, if your amp is mounted where your stock amp was, did you mount it directly to the chasis or are you using rubber spacers? Once and a while, depending on the amp brand, the chasis of the amp may be causing a bad ground to the vehicle. If you don't want to use rubber spacers try an MDF board or MDF squares at each mounting hole.

Grounding the RCAs isn't necessary.... try the other suggestions first as one of them is bound to be the issue.

 

Twisted pair do absolutely nothing except raise the price of an audio system that isn't using differential-balanced signals. Twisted pair work in wired networks because you're sending a digital signal with signal balancing equipment on both ends. In a car with unbalanced audio signals, unshielded twisted pair - the wires which show off their twist inside to impress the uniformed - are ALWAYS going to receive more noise than shielded "standard" RCAs.

The body of the car itself does a fair job of shielding from outside interference, so you probably won't notice much difference inside the vehicle unless you have a source of interference inside your vehicle.

Edit:
Here's a good video on why obsessing over cables is a huge waste of time - it's a bit technical, but a good sanity check.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...6wjcvQ#t=1041s

 

Yes I am running the RCA's and power wires on separate sides under the carpet.

I used a dremel tool yesterday with a sanding bit to make sure that I had grinded down all the paint and primer and was left with shiny metal.

I didnt take a picture but I can later after work if this might help.

I have created a Microsoft Paint diagram to show how my system is currently laid out.

 

I would love to fix the ground but yesterday I used a dermal to sand down the area to completely shiny metal. Re-Grounded the Ground wire and still had the same issue.

So I am not sure this is a ground issue because to me the ground looks solid.

Also I did not drill into the car but I used existing studs that stick out of the trunk floor that are used for bolting down the stock bose amp bracket (pictures in the first post).

 

Hey man no offense taken seriously I just am looking for a solution to the problem.

As for car audio I have installed 7 systems in my time so not a total noob but I still wouldn't consider myself an expert either maybe a novice.


Here is what I used for the installation equipment

Amp Install Kit (x1): DB LINK PK4Z 4 Gauge Power Series Amp Install Kit


RCA's Cables (x2): DB Link EST17Z 17 Feet Elite Soft Touch RCA Cable


I have used db link before without issue so I assume they are decent but if not do you have some that you recommend instead?

The RCA Cables are properly seated I made sure to tape them together before I put the deck back in (previous experience in that area with cheap rca's coming loose).

I would hav purchased the Knu Konceptz Amp Kit but it was not amazon prime eligible and I needed the gear quickly which is why I went with DB Link. If the Knu Konceptz is better for shielding I can purchase that.

I did mount the aftermarket to the stock bracket and then the stock bracket directly to the chasis without any rubber spacers.

Should I not do that for the amp and isolate it from ground instead (rubber spacers)?

Doesnt seem like that should matter as power wire should be the only ungrounded part (maybe remote signal).

 

Questions

Someone mentioned that I should try grounding the double din radio back to the same grounding point that I used to ground the amp.

1. Has anyone done that before and if so does it work?

2. Has anyone ever grounded their RCA Cables?

3. Has anyone ever used Ground loop isolators if so do they actully work? | Link: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i...e-filters.html


Troubleshooting Done So Far

1. Sanded down area of AMP ground and then grinded it down with a dremal for shiny metal surface. Then re-grounded amp to that surface with stock bolt from infiniti amp bracket.

2. Turned down the amp sensitivity. This just made the noise lower pitch of course it was still there

3. Mounted the amp right side up isntead of upside down (suggestion made by SargentRed) no luck still noise.

4. Turned Key to Accessory mode. In this mode the car does not emit the engine noise from the speaker (obisously engine is not running) which seems to tell me the noise is only induced during the car being fully on.


Things that I have left to try

1. Finding the interference suggested by Wrathernaut (not sure how to do this maybe use different rcas and run them though car just for testing ??? )

1. Running Long Ground Wire from Double Din Radio back to AMP Grounding Location trying them in together

2. Running Long Ground Wire from AMP to Seat Bolt Inside car.

3. Replacing RCA Cables with "better ones" if my cables are not up to snuff (waiting to see what you guys think about them and if they require higher end cables)

4. Replacing Power Cable with Koncept Cable that was suggested by SargentRed.

 

You don't need to ground it back to the amp.....

You need to start simple and work your way up. There is no reason to use a fire hose when a garden hose will do so keep it simple.

Start by checking that your RCAs are plugged in all the way.

If your amp is mounted to the factory bracket, you're fine.

Try regrounding your ground wire to a different point in the vehicle but first make sure you scraped the paint from the first grounding point. If not, do that and see what happens. If it doesn't fix it then move the grounding point.

As you can tell from my attached photo the DBLink is one of the better of the cheaper amp kits. It has a good amount of wire vs insulation where as the Legacy brand screws you over.

I don't think the DB brand amp kit is your issue either. I really think it has something to do with your connection points.

Take pictures of the current:

1) Grounding Point for the amp
2) inline Fuse block by the battery with cover off so I can see the connections
3) Battery power connection
4) amp mount location

I want to see if I can visually see any issues. Please post them on this thread so everyone can see and if an answer is found, knows the solution too.

Also, how did you route your power cable? Passenger side, driver's side, or under the car?

 

I will defiantly take some pictures when I get off. Im currently at work so it wont be until later this afternoon but yes I think if I figure out this issue it would definably be helpful to pay it forward towards the community so that others can avoid the pitfalls.

As for which side I ran the power though that would be under the carpet on the passenger side and rcas are run under the carpet on the drivers side. I will attach a picure of a crappy drawing I made that helps show what i mean.