hi,

i tried wiring my own fog lights. everything was fine until I decided I wanted to use a different switch to make it appear more stock.

Using the same wires that came with the wiring kit, I cut the wires (ignition, power to relay, and ground) leading to the original switch and used it to tap into the new switch. everything worked fine until I turned the lights off. it appears some short occured, resulting in the insulation on the ignition wire and ground wire to burn off.

i decided to switch from the original 22 ga wire to a 16 ga wire. Wired everything the same except I left off the ground wire. Everything worked fine.

I went ahead and attahced the ground wire. No prblems when the lights were one, but when I turned it off, I saw a small spark inside the switch and now my car is dead.

to be exact, these are the things that do not work when the key is in the on position:

-window up/down via switch on door panels does not work (via key fob or door lock works fine)
-dash lights do not work (hazard lights work fine)
-radio and A/C do not work
-turn signals do not work
-heated seats do not work
-sunroof does not work
-side view mirror motors do not work
-windshield wipers do not work
-compass/temperature display do not work
-homelink does not work
-Car WILL NOT start

What does work:

-all lights inside and outside except for those mentioned above
-seat controls


I'm assuming it's a fuse and will check tomorrow. Looking at the manual, it appears the culprit may be the 10A fuse located in the fuse box by the driver's leg, designated in slot 1.

Another fuse that may be blown is the 10A at slot 6. I'm gonna check slot 1 and go from there.

DOES anyone here have any ideas on the exact fuse? If not, how about an explanation of what is going on.

I asked KPierson and he has been of some help, but I'm hoping he or others can shed light on this situation.

Vinh

 

It sounds like your switch is shorting 12v to ground when it's in the off position. You may have miswired it, or it could be defective from the factory. Disconnect the switch before you go hunting for the fuse or else you will probably just blow another one.

 

Sounds exactly like the fusable link I blew a couple months back. Check the fuse box next to the battery. It's the one where the top pops off, not the one that slides up and off.





This part was a bitch and a half to get a hold of. None of the Infiniti dealerships had it. I eventually found it at the fourth Nissan service center I tried.

 

i have 2 of those bitches in hand.anybody need one PM me.might cost you an arm tho hahaha j/k.

 

WOW!!!!

Puff..THANK YOU so much!!!! You were exactly right. the same fusible link blew.

thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you x 1,000,000,000,000

Time to do some hunting.

G35 driver forum members do it again.

Vinh

TINMAN...stand by...I may need you to overnight me one of those bitches. can you PM me your phone number and I'll call you if I can't find one locally?

Thank you.

 

HAHHA, you still need to find the short. I replaced it, thinking I fixed the short, and bam! That sucker went again. Fortunately I had bought two of them. They only blow on crank. Once the key is in the on position, you'll notice the rest of your systems working again, along with the typical "testing/checking" that happens at that point. If you still have the short, it will go the moment you try to start. Then, you will lose all your systems again.

The cause of my short was an ABS connector under the driver side dash. When you pull down the big piece underneath the steering wheel, on the right side, you'll notice some random wire connecting to it. That had popped out when I pulled the panel down too far.

Good luck man!

 

i will check, but i think it was my fog light switch that caused the short.

but I guess none of the dealerships here in Cali have it.

Steve (tinman)...are you out there?

vinh

 

i'm here..PM sent.

 

it is very important that you locate the short and fix it.otherwise the bitch will blow again.mine blew 3 times.best thing to do is after you fix the short.solder the blew one and try it.if nothing happen then you can replace it with the new one.

 

okay...so I had the new switch wired incorrectly. shoulda listened to kpierson. roneski also pointed out what the problem was as well.

we should have a circle of folks on this forum with expertise in areas such as body work, electrical, A/V, engine, etc. you could all offer mini-classes in the chat room. Now this is a premium feature I'd gladly pay for.

switch labelled: (1)supply volts - (2) on acc - (3) earth ground

Connected to : (1)fog light relay - (2) ignition - (3) ground

when i turned the power off, all the current in the ignition went to ground and back around. this burned off the insulation when I had 22 ga wire and blew the fuse when I upgraded to 16 ga wire.

the CORRECT way is like this:

switch labelled: (1)supply volts - (2)on acc - (3)earth ground

connected to : (1)ignition - (2)fog light relay - (3)ground

this is what happens when you have no knowledge of how things work I misinterpreted the label, thinking "supply volt" was power being supplied to the relay and "on acc" meaning the accessory wire or ignition wire.

Common sense says that you never run a power source directly to ground. Now I know.

hopefully all I blew was the ignition switch fuse. i guess we will find out on Friday.

THANKS to afropuff for not only pointing out the fuse, but having a picture readily available.

THANKS to tinman (Steve) for having one available and taking his time to go to the post office and overnighting it to me so promptly. Hopefully I'll be on the road once the switch arrives.

Vinh

 

Glad everything seems to be coming together for you. If you have time, how about a DIY for people who want to add auxiliary fog lights, so they don't run into the same problem?

 

(Nevermind found what I was looking for)