help on fixing previous install
help on fixing previous install
so i had some speakers installed last year and it never sounded right. i opened the doors up to fix the install and am having some trouble, not very savvy but i think i see some major problems.
for the speaker adapter (plastic) they used wood screws and just went through into the metal. only 3 wood screws holding in a krx2 woofer lol.. and one of them was loose. i bought new speaker adapters that will utilize the existing speaker holes but they tossed the screws. i dont know which size fits. i took off some regular 10mm that are used everywhere in the car but they dont fit, can someone tell me what size screws i need?
for the tweeter it was too big so they just dremeled out the existing mounting holes and hot glued the **** out of it. if i am looking to replace the tweeter, what would be the best way to mount it now? will i have to hot glue the new one in as well?
for the crossovers instead of running new wire for the power it looks like they just spliced from the main loom, will this be enough to supply power? it looks like they used a red with silver dots and a green with silver dots, can someone tell me which is pos and neg? just want to make sure its hooked up correctly, not sure if pos neg being flipped on a crossover will cause speakers to be out of phase or not.
have everything torn down atm and would appreciate the help, thanks guys.




you can see where its actually starting to rust, i think im going to have to sand it down a little and just buy some spraypaint to seal it back up..
for the speaker adapter (plastic) they used wood screws and just went through into the metal. only 3 wood screws holding in a krx2 woofer lol.. and one of them was loose. i bought new speaker adapters that will utilize the existing speaker holes but they tossed the screws. i dont know which size fits. i took off some regular 10mm that are used everywhere in the car but they dont fit, can someone tell me what size screws i need?
for the tweeter it was too big so they just dremeled out the existing mounting holes and hot glued the **** out of it. if i am looking to replace the tweeter, what would be the best way to mount it now? will i have to hot glue the new one in as well?
for the crossovers instead of running new wire for the power it looks like they just spliced from the main loom, will this be enough to supply power? it looks like they used a red with silver dots and a green with silver dots, can someone tell me which is pos and neg? just want to make sure its hooked up correctly, not sure if pos neg being flipped on a crossover will cause speakers to be out of phase or not.
have everything torn down atm and would appreciate the help, thanks guys.




you can see where its actually starting to rust, i think im going to have to sand it down a little and just buy some spraypaint to seal it back up..
Last edited by .cakestar; Apr 4, 2014 at 05:21 PM.
lol an actual shop in garden grove. they couldnt get the ms8 to work and said it was bad. charged me 400$ sigh, i shoulda just done it myself but i didnt want to run wiring and having to tear all the trim up.
oh god help me wrathernaut! i see you in here!
also, what kind of screws should i use to mount the speaker to the plastic 7/8" spacers? bolt with a nut on the back?
was looking through this
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5fa...TU1/edit?hl=en
and it looks like the speaker doors are 14mm screws?
also, what kind of screws should i use to mount the speaker to the plastic 7/8" spacers? bolt with a nut on the back?
was looking through this
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5fa...TU1/edit?hl=en
and it looks like the speaker doors are 14mm screws?
Last edited by .cakestar; Apr 4, 2014 at 05:38 PM.
Sand and paint the wood screw holes where it's rusting.
Get a bolt that fits through the factory hole, put a lock washer on it, and use loc-tite too.
Use/make a proper MDF speaker spacer to mount the speaker away from the metal of the door. Zenclosures makes some nice ones, if you don't have a router and some bravery - http://www.zenclosures.com/Speaker-Spacers-s/36.htm
Tweeters, you can get by with hot glue. They're light and don't really move, so long as it's the high-temp glue it's ok to do it like that. A little bracket behind it is nice to have (and in the coupes it's very easy to re-use the factory bracket). Low-temp glue may get too hot in the summer to keep a good hold, so make sure you're using the right stuff.
Factory wiring to the speakers is fine. I'm running 150w per channel through mine.
i got some new spacers that are abs, i was reading about mdf ones rotting with wet weather and since im in seattle where its wet all the time i thought plastic would be a better choice. can i secure the speakers with a bolt and nut to the spacer?
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Frostbite91
Audio, Video & Electronics
5
Aug 20, 2015 07:20 PM
saskicker32
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
0
Aug 11, 2015 02:12 PM










