Planning to upgrade the crappy Bose sound system with the following:
Alpine type r 6.5 component for the front http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...e-SPR-60C.html
Alpine type r 6.5 mid http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ne-SPR-60.html
Alpine type r 8" sub http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-SBR-S83V.html
Alpine 5 channel amp http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...e-PDR-V75.html
Does all of this look like it works in synergy so far?would this amp be enough to power my 4 speakers+sub? I'm planning to just remove the 2 6x9s in the rear deck since the sub should take care of the bass, but I have some JL 6x9s I can use if this isn't a good idea. I'm looking for sound quality and punchiness over loud and muddy. Is there anything else I need? Would a sound deadener like dynamat be useful in the door panel and for the mid speakers? I'm guessing I don't need it for the trunk. Thanks for any help!
Alpine type r 6.5 component for the front http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...e-SPR-60C.html
Alpine type r 6.5 mid http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ne-SPR-60.html
Alpine type r 8" sub http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-SBR-S83V.html
Alpine 5 channel amp http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...e-PDR-V75.html
Does all of this look like it works in synergy so far?would this amp be enough to power my 4 speakers+sub? I'm planning to just remove the 2 6x9s in the rear deck since the sub should take care of the bass, but I have some JL 6x9s I can use if this isn't a good idea. I'm looking for sound quality and punchiness over loud and muddy. Is there anything else I need? Would a sound deadener like dynamat be useful in the door panel and for the mid speakers? I'm guessing I don't need it for the trunk. Thanks for any help!
Wrathernaut
Gentle Manne of Leisure
close
- Join DateNov 2008
- LocationPennsylvania
- Posts:7,994
-
iTrader Positive Feedback100
-
iTrader Feedback Score(5)
-
Likes:283
-
Liked:1,050 Times in 618 Posts
Get better speakers up front and forget about speakers in the rear. Front soundstage is the way to go. When you watch something live, or are talking to somebody, sound is in front of you. Music is mastered in two-channel stereo, not surround. If you're after sound quality, two speakers is the way to go. The only way to get 4+ speaker setups sound correct is with proper sound processors which cost $$$.
Get sound deadener, but not dynamat. Use the CLD tiles and some closed-cell foam from sounddeadenershowdown.com instead.
Get sound deadener, but not dynamat. Use the CLD tiles and some closed-cell foam from sounddeadenershowdown.com instead.
Well ****, I already have all the speakers as I knew what would fit, and the alpines got really good reviews. I was mainly wanting to know what amp to get, if I should go 5 channel or mono and 4 channel, and if it would sound better without the rear 6x9s..
Maybe I could sell them.. Could you recommend what you would go with? Speakers, amp and all
Wrathernaut
Gentle Manne of Leisure
close
- Join DateNov 2008
- LocationPennsylvania
- Posts:7,994
-
iTrader Positive Feedback100
-
iTrader Feedback Score(5)
-
Likes:283
-
Liked:1,050 Times in 618 Posts
Huge fan of the Image Dynamics CTX-65cs for speakers, amps - really any quality brand that puts out the wattage without distortion is fine, I've got a RF amp powering those speakers in my wife's car, zero complaints. A well-trained ear might tell the difference in amps when the car's not running and parked, but wind noise is almost always going to be enough to eliminate any audible difference between amps while the car is in use.
Quote:
Thanks for the help, is the sub ok? And what about the rear 6.5 speakers and deck 6x9? Just disable both? should I go for an amp to power the sub and front components, power the rear 6.5 from the headunit and just get rid of the 6x9?Originally Posted by Wrathernaut
Huge fan of the Image Dynamics CTX-65cs for speakers, amps - really any quality brand that puts out the wattage without distortion is fine, I've got a RF amp powering those speakers in my wife's car, zero complaints. A well-trained ear might tell the difference in amps when the car's not running and parked, but wind noise is almost always going to be enough to eliminate any audible difference between amps while the car is in use.
Also re sound deadening, how much should I cover? Front door panels only? Or worth it to do rear and trunk too?
Wrathernaut
Gentle Manne of Leisure
close
- Join DateNov 2008
- LocationPennsylvania
- Posts:7,994
-
iTrader Positive Feedback100
-
iTrader Feedback Score(5)
-
Likes:283
-
Liked:1,050 Times in 618 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mastabassa
Thanks for the help, is the sub ok? And what about the rear 6.5 speakers and deck 6x9? Just disable both? should I go for an amp to power the sub and front components, power the rear 6.5 from the headunit and just get rid of the 6x9?
Never heard the sub, but generally, factory ported box combos work quite well, so I'll give it the benefit of the doubt.
Don't use the rear 6.5 or 6x9's.
Wrathernaut
Gentle Manne of Leisure
close
- Join DateNov 2008
- LocationPennsylvania
- Posts:7,994
-
iTrader Positive Feedback100
-
iTrader Feedback Score(5)
-
Likes:283
-
Liked:1,050 Times in 618 Posts
Quote:
Definitely do the trunk lid and rear deck, at least with the vibration dampener.Originally Posted by mastabassa
Also re sound deadening, how much should I cover? Front door panels only? Or worth it to do rear and trunk too?
alright thanks for all the help! before i order can you describe the sound qualities of the image dynamics? i dont want a ton of treble, i want a fairly balanced smoother sound with tight punchy bass
Wrathernaut
Gentle Manne of Leisure
close
- Join DateNov 2008
- LocationPennsylvania
- Posts:7,994
-
iTrader Positive Feedback100
-
iTrader Feedback Score(5)
-
Likes:283
-
Liked:1,050 Times in 618 Posts
Quote:
There's not much more I can say about it that's already been said, check the reviews on amazon, it's pretty much 5 stars all around. They're also listed on the CarAV subreddit "what to get at what price" chart - http://www.reddit.com/r/CarAV/commen..._forum_boners/ - so you really can't go wrong with them.Originally Posted by mastabassa
alright thanks for all the help! before i order can you describe the sound qualities of the image dynamics? i dont want a ton of treble, i want a fairly balanced smoother sound with tight punchy bass
I have them in my wife's car, and in my car I have the much more expensive Boston Acoustic Pro60se, which are one of the "standards" by which many speakers are judged. I love the pro60se's, and despite their cost would absolutely buy them again... until I installed the CTX65-cs. Now I'd easily take the extra $100 and put it elsewhere rather than buy the Pro60se.
Ok sounds good I'll post the alpines up on eBay, for the amp should I go for this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E1B...=AC_SY200_QL40 And http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BMR...=AC_SY200_QL40 for the sub or will the alpine in my first post work? The pioneer is 100w x 4 @ 4ohm and It's around the same price so whatever you think will work better
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E1B...=AC_SY200_QL40 And http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BMR...=AC_SY200_QL40 for the sub or will the alpine in my first post work? The pioneer is 100w x 4 @ 4ohm and It's around the same price so whatever you think will work better
Wrathernaut
Gentle Manne of Leisure
close
- Join DateNov 2008
- LocationPennsylvania
- Posts:7,994
-
iTrader Positive Feedback100
-
iTrader Feedback Score(5)
-
Likes:283
-
Liked:1,050 Times in 618 Posts
Run the 5-channel amp in bridged (3-channel) mode if you already have it ordered.
For that amp, if that's ALL YOU EVER WANT, 4-gauge wiring will be good. If you ever plan to do more, since it's just as much trouble to wire 0/1 gauge as 4-gauge, put the extra $20 into thicker wiring and do the 0/1 gauge now, so you don't have to rewire when/if you decide to add more power in the form of a second amplifier or just a bigger amp.
Quote:
Bridged, 4 ohms: 200 watts x 2 chan. + 350 watts. x 1 chan.
If you haven't ordered the amp already, you can get a 2-channel amp (I'm happy with the Rockford Fosgate mentioned earlier) and a 1-channel amp for the sub.Bridged, 4 ohms: 200 watts x 2 chan. + 350 watts. x 1 chan.
For that amp, if that's ALL YOU EVER WANT, 4-gauge wiring will be good. If you ever plan to do more, since it's just as much trouble to wire 0/1 gauge as 4-gauge, put the extra $20 into thicker wiring and do the 0/1 gauge now, so you don't have to rewire when/if you decide to add more power in the form of a second amplifier or just a bigger amp.
Oh I was under the impression I should amp the tweeters on a separate channel from what I've been reading about these speakers, I saw a few people say you really want to run 100w rms to get the full potential of the speaker, maybe I misenterprated and I'll just listen to you since you seem to know what your talking about




