Sedan trunk area ground point..
#16
07-25-2005, 04:42 PM
Here is a quick one:
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID=49445&PN=1
Here is a LONG one:
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID=37762&PN=1
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID=49445&PN=1
Here is a LONG one:
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID=37762&PN=1
#17
07-25-2005, 05:15 PM
#18
07-25-2005, 05:42 PM
Ok guys. I've read enough of this grounding crap. Taking a wire from whatever you want to ground and attaching it to the frame(Bare metal) is not a real ground.
To completely ground your system, you should hook up a ground wire from the part and connect it to the negative terminal on the battery. This will give you a complete/Proper ground.
It is a common mis-conception that the ground and negative wires are different. This is not true. They are one and the same.
BTW, I am an electrician. The ground and negative on a 110~130V house lead to the same place. It is just because of the Electrical Code that these two wires are kept separate until they reach the breaker/fuse box.
To completely ground your system, you should hook up a ground wire from the part and connect it to the negative terminal on the battery. This will give you a complete/Proper ground.
It is a common mis-conception that the ground and negative wires are different. This is not true. They are one and the same.
BTW, I am an electrician. The ground and negative on a 110~130V house lead to the same place. It is just because of the Electrical Code that these two wires are kept separate until they reach the breaker/fuse box.
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This guy just proves MY point, you must have a wire to the battery. If you use 0 gauge on the pos. side and use the body on the other, you are not balancing the equation.
To add to this, a good ground for car audio applications will have a return resistance reading of 1/2 ohm or less. I have yet to have a return reading of 0 ohms. If a ground return reading cannot be made to get below 1/2 ohm by means of the "BIG 3", then it is adviseable to ground direct to the battery. Electricity is an algebra equation, what you do to one side you must do to the other. Pay as much attention to the ground wire as you do the power wire.
Last edited by Texasscout; 07-25-2005 at 05:49 PM.
#19
07-25-2005, 10:36 PM
I was kinda getting at the latter of those two quotes. He states that if you cannot get a good ground with the "big 3", then ground direct to the battery. That guy has about 3500 posts, and seems to be pretty knowledgable on the subject. I think that in most instances, grounding with the big 3 will be fine, but in some cases, it is necesary to ground direct to the battery. But there is certainly NOTHING wrong with grounding direct to the battery. If anything, it is a sure-fire way to go.
#20
07-29-2005, 12:00 PM
Originally Posted by Texasscout
This is the ONLY guy who made sense on that thread
************************************************** *
This guy just proves MY point, you must have a wire to the battery. If you use 0 gauge on the pos. side and use the body on the other, you are not balancing the equation.
I guess we will have to agree to dis-agree on this....
************************************************** *
This guy just proves MY point, you must have a wire to the battery. If you use 0 gauge on the pos. side and use the body on the other, you are not balancing the equation.
I guess we will have to agree to dis-agree on this....
#21
07-29-2005, 03:45 PM
Ummm....yeah I think we got that. We were arguing...ehem..."discussing" whether or not it was better to run a ground directly from the amp to the battery. There can be resistance in the chasis/frame of a vehicle that can impede the flow of the ground; especially when there are several devices all grounded to the chasis.
#22
07-30-2005, 08:28 PM
#23
07-30-2005, 09:03 PM
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