I just used this thread as a guide for putting in some Infinity 2-ways. Did it exactly the same way with the 3/4" MDF spacer and it worked great. I always thought the non-Bose OEM system was actually pretty decent for a base package, but now I know what I was missing.

I decided against the component route since my 40 year old ears probably can't hear the difference anyway. But for $139 shipped for 2 pairs of Infinity 6012i, it's the best money I've spent on the car yet. Incredible detail and imaging for a mass market coax.

I was amazed sitting in the center of the back seat how focused the soundstage is. The rear passengers are in for a treat. Now if I could just figure out a way to drive in the center of the car.

If you have a base system and need a weekend project, this is it. My only regret is not doing it sooner.

 

SQ is compeletely opinion. What you may think is good SQ I might point my nose at. I in no way will ever make a claim that ohms translates into any type of SQ be it, good or bad. In terms of electric current and effeciency though I'm still going to say you want the lowest ohms possible. The reason most home systems are designed the way they are is because it's cheaper to make speakers that are durable and stable at 8ohms that it is to make speakers that are durable and stable at 2ohms etc. Another reason is industy standards. And finally it's not as important to be effecient electronically in a home than it is running off a 12 volt battery and 14.4 volt alternater.

As for what el dude says. That's his opionion and he could be right. Personally I'd think a company can make cheap equipment w/o having to worry about ohms etc. so I'd have to dismiss that logic this time. It's much more expensive to create a system at lower ohms and still be sure it's not only durable but also stable than it would be at higher ohms. That's just the facts. You will never find a 2ohm amp that pushes 300 watts RMS cheaper than an amp that pushes 300 watts at 4ohms. Same deal goes for speakers. Nothing's free including effeciency.

Still my words were a lil too harsh in my last post. I love debating so no worries.

 

Hmm. I just the broke the speaker out of the mount, dremeled/sanded it and put my Diamonds in. Works perfectly with a very tight seal. Free of charge, quick and easy. But if you wanna keep the sh$%ty speakers then obviously this is not the way to go. But you can Definatley use the stock mounts.

 

I still want to know where to tap into the stock non-Bose wiring harness to get a signal for an amp and then to send it to the speakers. I really don't want to go through the molex connector.

 

Gilley, few days ago I cut the speaker wires above kick panel just before the molex connector, which I had to disconnect first in order to do so. These connectors are bitch and my hands are full of scratches from disconnecting and connecting them.

To OEM speaker wires I connected Monster XLN twisted pair using Posi-Lock connectors but the strands in OEM wires are too few and too tick for Posi-Lock to hold tight on them so after my hands heal I will replace them with some other kind of connectors.

I should have done this last year during DigitalWheelz screen installation while HU was out because it would be so much easier.

 

Right, I don't want to bother with the molex connectors and would like to tap into the harness somwhere convenient near the fuse panel.

 

back from the dead, but ...

has anybody else reused the factory speaker spacer? Is there a relatively easy way to break out the speaker and reuse the mount?

 

I have read that some members have cut the Bose speaker out of it and used the plastic spacer. Of course, you can't reinstall the Bose speaker if you return to stock. It might be worth it to spend $20 to get spacers from www.zenclosures.com.

 

Is the speaker setup (non-bose) same in a coupe?

 

What do you mean?