Will adding a 10w7 in blow rear deck speakers?
#1
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
From: San Mateo, CA
Will adding a 10w7 in blow rear deck speakers?
Hello,
I'm planning on installing JL 10w7 in the trunk of my coupe, powered by a JL 500/1. I know several people have this setup. But those who have opted to utilize the rear deck speakers (stock or otherwise), will I run a considerable risk of blowing these speakers if I the sub hits too hard?
Secondly, I plan on running MB Quart PCE 216 components in the front & rear. Since I do occasionally cart around passengers in the back, I'd like to know if it's better to replace the 6x9s, or replace the 6.5"s in the side.
Thanks for the help.
Brian
I'm planning on installing JL 10w7 in the trunk of my coupe, powered by a JL 500/1. I know several people have this setup. But those who have opted to utilize the rear deck speakers (stock or otherwise), will I run a considerable risk of blowing these speakers if I the sub hits too hard?
Secondly, I plan on running MB Quart PCE 216 components in the front & rear. Since I do occasionally cart around passengers in the back, I'd like to know if it's better to replace the 6x9s, or replace the 6.5"s in the side.
Thanks for the help.
Brian
#3
You won't blow the rear speakers from the subs hitting too hard. Where the problem lies is that a lot of people will crank the bass up to +128 when they have subs installed. The increased bass will drown out the distortion that your rear (and front) speakers are creating, trying to recreate the exaggerated bass notes you're sending to them.
As long as you don't crank the bass and distort the speakers you'll be fine.
As long as you don't crank the bass and distort the speakers you'll be fine.
#4
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
From: San Mateo, CA
#5
Components would be a waste in the rear, a coaxial or just a regular woofer will be better. Rear speakers, by design, should just add a little lower end fill. Putting separate components back there would pull your soundstage towards the back, giving you an artificial sound.
Theres been an arguement for years about the differences between 6x9s and round speakers. Most people choose to go with 6.5s (if they will fit) or 5.25s in the 6x9 spot, IF they are looking for the best sound. However, you will lose quite a bit of surface area on the speaker, so your bass response will go down. This isn't a big deal if you have a sub, though. The theory behind this choice is that 6x9s create oval soundwaves that are less predictable then a perfectly circular sound wave. Therefore, the circular soundwaves are more suited for a high end, automobile sounds system.
Theres been an arguement for years about the differences between 6x9s and round speakers. Most people choose to go with 6.5s (if they will fit) or 5.25s in the 6x9 spot, IF they are looking for the best sound. However, you will lose quite a bit of surface area on the speaker, so your bass response will go down. This isn't a big deal if you have a sub, though. The theory behind this choice is that 6x9s create oval soundwaves that are less predictable then a perfectly circular sound wave. Therefore, the circular soundwaves are more suited for a high end, automobile sounds system.
#7
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
From: San Mateo, CA
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#8
Originally Posted by speedybc86
Hello,
I'm planning on installing JL 10w7 in the trunk of my coupe, powered by a JL 500/1. I know several people have this setup. But those who have opted to utilize the rear deck speakers (stock or otherwise), will I run a considerable risk of blowing these speakers if I the sub hits too hard?
Secondly, I plan on running MB Quart PCE 216 components in the front & rear. Since I do occasionally cart around passengers in the back, I'd like to know if it's better to replace the 6x9s, or replace the 6.5"s in the side.
Thanks for the help.
Brian
I'm planning on installing JL 10w7 in the trunk of my coupe, powered by a JL 500/1. I know several people have this setup. But those who have opted to utilize the rear deck speakers (stock or otherwise), will I run a considerable risk of blowing these speakers if I the sub hits too hard?
Secondly, I plan on running MB Quart PCE 216 components in the front & rear. Since I do occasionally cart around passengers in the back, I'd like to know if it's better to replace the 6x9s, or replace the 6.5"s in the side.
Thanks for the help.
Brian
#9
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
From: San Mateo, CA
Shane, Are you jerking my chain about the W7? I thought yours sounded great with your setup at the last meet. What's changed?
I've heard a lot of people say that I should opt against replacing the rear side speakers due to it being too close to the ears...but aren't the rear deck speakers even closer? Explanation please. Car Audio noob here.
I've heard a lot of people say that I should opt against replacing the rear side speakers due to it being too close to the ears...but aren't the rear deck speakers even closer? Explanation please. Car Audio noob here.
#10
In car audio path lengths are everything. A path length is defined as the the distance from the left speaker to the left ear, and from the right speaker to the right ear. Unless the seat is in the middle of the car, you will NEVER get equal pathlengths. To compensate for this typically you move the speakers further away from the listener (ie kick panels). This doesn't equalize them, but it makes the ratio much closer, and less detectable to the ear.
So, if you were to measure from your left ear to the rear side left speaker the distance won't be that far. When you measure the right side it will be much greater then the left. Now, do the same for the rear speakers. The distances should be much closer.
Of course, on rear speakers this isn't as much of a concern, as rear speakers, by design, are to only add lower end reinforcement to the music, and, as we all know, bass is non directional!
Geez, I'm a wealth of useless information.... Its almost hard to believe that EVERY part of my stereo in my coupe is stock!
So, if you were to measure from your left ear to the rear side left speaker the distance won't be that far. When you measure the right side it will be much greater then the left. Now, do the same for the rear speakers. The distances should be much closer.
Of course, on rear speakers this isn't as much of a concern, as rear speakers, by design, are to only add lower end reinforcement to the music, and, as we all know, bass is non directional!
Geez, I'm a wealth of useless information.... Its almost hard to believe that EVERY part of my stereo in my coupe is stock!
#11
Originally Posted by KPierson
In car audio path lengths are everything. A path length is defined as the the distance from the left speaker to the left ear, and from the right speaker to the right ear. Unless the seat is in the middle of the car, you will NEVER get equal pathlengths. To compensate for this typically you move the speakers further away from the listener (ie kick panels). This doesn't equalize them, but it makes the ratio much closer, and less detectable to the ear.
So, if you were to measure from your left ear to the rear side left speaker the distance won't be that far. When you measure the right side it will be much greater then the left. Now, do the same for the rear speakers. The distances should be much closer.
Of course, on rear speakers this isn't as much of a concern, as rear speakers, by design, are to only add lower end reinforcement to the music, and, as we all know, bass is non directional!
Geez, I'm a wealth of useless information.... Its almost hard to believe that EVERY part of my stereo in my coupe is stock!
So, if you were to measure from your left ear to the rear side left speaker the distance won't be that far. When you measure the right side it will be much greater then the left. Now, do the same for the rear speakers. The distances should be much closer.
Of course, on rear speakers this isn't as much of a concern, as rear speakers, by design, are to only add lower end reinforcement to the music, and, as we all know, bass is non directional!
Geez, I'm a wealth of useless information.... Its almost hard to believe that EVERY part of my stereo in my coupe is stock!
Last edited by limeg35; 09-17-2005 at 06:14 PM.
#12
Originally Posted by speedybc86
Shane, Are you jerking my chain about the W7? I thought yours sounded great with your setup at the last meet. What's changed?
I've heard a lot of people say that I should opt against replacing the rear side speakers due to it being too close to the ears...but aren't the rear deck speakers even closer? Explanation please. Car Audio noob here.
I've heard a lot of people say that I should opt against replacing the rear side speakers due to it being too close to the ears...but aren't the rear deck speakers even closer? Explanation please. Car Audio noob here.
#13
#14
If you are going with a W7, don't use the 500/1, use a 1000/1. There is not enough power from the 500/1 to push a W7. You bass will be there, but it will not be a crisp. If you use a W6, the 500/1 will have enough power to push it.
#15
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
From: San Mateo, CA
Not to look a gift horse in the mouth...but doesn't the 10W7 owners manual recommend the 500/1 for the 10w7? I'd hate to blow the sub considering how much they cost. I guess I'll run a set of coaxials in the rears and the separates in the front. This can be one expensive hobby.
Thanks for all the feedback, it will definitely help me make an informed decision.
Brian
Thanks for all the feedback, it will definitely help me make an informed decision.
Brian
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