I want to upgrade my sub to a 10w6. Anyone know where I can get a good deal on one, new or used.

What's the word on the clean sweep? Does it live up to JL's claims?

Thanks.

 

The JL Cleansweep is definately an impressive product. It is basically a digital Equailizer. My first iteration of a new audio system layout included a CleanSweep. Unfortunately it was going to make me lose too much of my stock feel, including the steering wheel controls and SCV.

First, the audio signal coming from the head unit (before it hits the bose amp, if you have a bose system) is virtually flat as far as an EQ curve is concerned. As one of the main purposes of the Cleansweep is to take an input signal and make it "flat", this is not necessary with our system.

Secondly, if you want to connect your amp directly to the output of the HU without any intermediary signal adapters (with the exception of speaker-wire-to-rca adapters if your amp only accepts RCA inputs), make sure the amp accepts balanced inputs. You can do a search on this in this forum and pull a plethora of excellent information.

Thirdly, the CleanSweep provides an AUX. Input, but with a PAC AAI NIS, we can convert our SAT buttons (or CD button if you have a 2003.5 sedan) into an aux input. This is a better solution anyways as you get to keep your SCV (which may not be important to you, but I like it )

My conclusion: the cleansweep is definately a nice product, but not necessary in our car. Short of providing some very nice high voltage preamp outputs, it accomplishes a lot of things that are already available to you in the car if you purchase the correct products (ie: AAI NIS adapter, amp with balanced inputs, etc). Plus if you value the stock look/feel of your car, this thing is definately NOT for you (no steering wheel volume control, no SCV, no usage of treble/bass settings in HU, having to install an aftermarket volume **** within reach of the driver).

 

I also have he CS, agree that we don't need it, like the voltage boost but that can be done w/less costly products. I use Phoenix Gold, SLD 44 would be good.

Mark

 

They pretty much covered it.

I have a gently used 10W6 that was in a Stealthbox in my CR-V. Let it go cheap. Can send pics later today if you like - ping el_duderino at comcast. net

 

Thanks for the good info. I've been experimenting with so many combinations and setups and have gotten so much conflicting information (confilicting with other info or my own experience.)

I've tried stock mids with MB Q tweeters, plus subs connected via a PAC, via the high level inputs on my hiphonics 1k, the MB quarts mids and tweeters with the bose amp, with my punch 150 and the MB quarts passive x-over by itself, with an electric x-over, with a passive x-over from my old system, I've tried the Audio Control LC6 with all of the above before the bose amp, after the amp, using the front inputs only, using the fronts and the input from the rear deck speakers, I've plugged in a portable CD player, I've connected my home computer to the stereo, I've run RCA's from my nephew's system to mine, I've built 3 diff. boxes, etc. etc.

Its been interesting, but I think I'm ready to settle down now. The best sound has come from the computer. I'm currently using the Audio Control after the bose amp with my MB quarts run by a punch 150 (old school) and one older 10'' JL sub (I don't have the model number (I bought two in 1992) and there's no model indications on the sub. Seems equivalent in size to a 10W0, but its a little heavier and the magnet is a little larger. It sounds pretty good, but I'd like to upgrade the sub and I'm still missing something up front. I thought that the Bose signal was crossed over, but the current thinking seems to be that the head unit is producing a flat signal and is not a high level signal. Does that seem to be the consensus? Is it actually at a normal preamp level?


I still really want to try the ballanced input on my hiphonics amp which matches the plug on your mouse (basically an S video, but with the small plastic piece in the middle of the plug vertical instead of horrizontal). I tried it once, but got alot of feedback and have been trying to find the pin assignment ever since with no luck. The only info from hiphonics is that the amp is compatible with one of their ballanced line drivers.

Dudierno (I like that name) quanto por el Wseis y donde vives?

Thanks again.

 

Just noticed I f'd up your name. It's duderino no dudierno. I guess duderino is the Italian version and dudierno is the Latin one.

 

The output from the stock Bose HU is virtually flat (in terms of EQ). It is the Bose amp that adds the EQ. I *think* I remember hearing at one point that the EQ "curve" (aka flat line) may dip slightly when the HU's volume gets up near 30. The idea from Clarion/Bose was that the HU would back off amplitude to try and save the speakers from people trying to BLAST the stock bose system. If you tune the radio so that your volume is at acceptable levels around 20~25, I would be surprised if this problem is not avoided all together.

Another guy recently posted a picture of his ZED amp which had this same input. Duderino can explain this better but apparently this was an interface used by proprietary adapters. You'd have to try and find an OEM adapter to connect to this interface, I don't think you're going to get any traction on obtaining an OEM adapter, or even determining the pinouts for that matter. It would be easier to get a Soundgate LOC that adapts the balanced to single-ended.

Something to keep in mind: if you remove the bose amp, be prepared to replace any and all stock bose speakers or get an equalizer to try and replicate the EQed signal that used to go to those speakers. The stock Bose speakers running on an aftermarket amp that is running from the flat signal from the Bose HU sounds awful. Not only that, but supposedly if you run a pink noise CD on a system with the stock Bose speakers but an aftermarket amp (bose amp completely out of the picture), the stock Bose speakers come no where close to producing an accurate/flat wave. The Bose speakers really were designed to run on that stock bose amp, and nothing else.

 

Great Info amthar, but here is a question, this is my potential setup JL 10w7, jl 500/1 running solely the sub, jl 450/4 for a new set of components and coaxials, don't want the rear deck speakers on...now if I don't want to use the cleansweep and want to keep my stock HU and steering wheel controls, how can i do so with my equipment setup? Please advise

 

Thanks. I've kept the rears running with the bose amp and just adjust the fader a few clicks to the front. The rear deck speakers aren't bad and I've heard that they are the only "real" bose speakers in the car. I've thought about disconnecting the rear side speakers and basically bridging the two rear channels, using the power from the rear sides to add to the rear deck speakers, but it would probably mess with the ohms or do something bad to the amp or speakers. On second thought, I've thought about doing alot of bad things to the bose amp and speakers so I might as well try it.

Interestingly, if anyone is wondering what the apparently unused harness just short of the amp is for ... nothing. The wires are for the rear lights, if you remove the cap (which is basically a jumper) your rear brake lights won't work. The dealer returned my car with the trunk torn apart, apparently it took the mechanic a while to figure it out. I had no clue until the dealer rep called me and told me it was going to be about $800 for a new wiring harness unless I had the cap. I was thinking of using it for an adapter to the bose amp harness. Needless to say, I found it pretty quickly.

 

All JL "slash" series amps (which includes your 500/1 and 450/4) accept balanced-differential inputs on the RCA input jacks. This makes everything fairly straight-forward:

Take output speaker wires coming from your stock Bose HU and convert them into RCAs (thus eliminating your Bose Amp as you are "stealing" the signal BEFORE the bose amp, not after). You can convert them using a Line Output Convertor (LOC) or do some cutting/splicing of high-quality RCA cables (twisted RCAs work better than what you'll end up getting at Radio Shack or Best Buy, etc, those have an EXTREMELY tiny inner conductor, making splicing virtually impossible) such as INOXS RCAs.

Plug these RCAs into your 450/4 input jacks. The 450 then powers your speakers, you can use the existing speaker wires in the car, their gauge is OK, do not need to run new ones unless you really want to.

The 450/4 has a preamp output on it, use this to "daisy chain" your 500/1. Your 500/1 will receive it's input from the 450/4's preamp output.

That's about it.

 

Someone on the forums bought an usused Bose amp and actually took the connectors off of the amp to use as a wiring harness. I thought about doing this but was not patient enough to wait until I had a spare bose amp to start working on my system. Instead I built my own wiring harnesses so I can still return the system back to stock in a matter of a day or two.... if I ever get rid of the baby