I'm not wanting to chop up the harness for the bose amp in my car, so I was curious if anybody made a connector so I can T-off a balanced RCA output from the bose wiring, in order to add a sub. I really like to keep things as OEM and reversable as possible when I'm doing modifications.

 

would like to know this as well.

i found this, which looks like it plugs inline with the factory harness, but i dunno if it's useable b/c it only has 1 set of RCA connectors.

 

This isn't exactly the answer you're looking for, but perhaps it will suffice:

I did not want to make my car irreversable back to stock either, so I made myself some wiring harnesses. By this I mean:

For the sake of me describing what I did, lets pretend there are 30 wires in the trunk related to the audio (I'm too lazy to pull up a diagram and count). I cut off the Bose proprietary plugs/ends that were going into the Bose amp. I cut them off and made sure I left myself about 2 or 3" of wire attached to the plug. This left me with 30 bare/cut wires sitting in the trunk.

I cut fifteen 1' pairs of speaker wire (leaving you with thirty 1' wires if you pulled the two wires in the speaker wire apart, thus giving you a single 1' wire for each stock audio wire in your trunk). I bought quick disconnects (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search) and crimped the female part of it onto one end of each of these thirty 1' wires. I then purchased some wire taps (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search) and connected these 1' wires to the stock wires in my trunk.

Now I had thirty wires with female connectors sitting in my trunk.

Next, I cut thirty 6" wires, and crimped the male end of the quick disconnects onto one end of each. I then used the wire taps and connected the other end of these 6" wires to the 2-3" of wire that was still coming out of the Bose plugs I cut off.

With this method, I converted the Bose plugs to standard male/female quick disconnects. If I connect the bose plugs to the Bose amp, and connect the male quick disconnects on the plugs to the female quick disconnects sitting in my trunk, I'm back to being stock (with a little over a foot of extra wire in the trunk for each audio wire).

To connect my aftermarket amp, I simply made another set of wires with male quick disconnects at one end. I connected them up to the female quck disconnects sitting in the trunk and connected them to the appropriate terminals on the amp.

Even after making door spacer rings for the comps and slightly modifying the sail panels for aftermarket tweeters, I could restore the car to 100% audio stock (with the exception of some extra wire here and there with quick disconnects attached in the middle) in about 1 day.

I did this same method in my doors in order to allow me to reinstall the stock woofer & tweeter.

Hope this helps... if you draw it on paper it may help more.

 

quick disconnects are awesome but that's gonna be messy.

You can get a Pac Audio AOEM-NIS2 adapter to give you RCA outputs (4 of them, adjustable output level) but it connects to the back of the HU (not in the trunk). That's what I used and the sound quality is quite good.

No splicing - unplug, replug, plug - and you're done (well except for dismantling the dash and putting it back together)...

 

lol, oh... that... that's not much

I would have done that, except I'm lazy and this was easier for me Not necessarily easier, but easier for me

 

Hell, I'd buy the LOC, cut off the adapter, and throw the LOC away, and it's s till a good deal : )

 

Cheers guys, I'll probably just get the AOEM-NIS2, assuming I find a place that sells it.

Amthar, its not that I dont know how to do a proper job installing stuff, its that I don't want to cut any wires I don't have to....and your method effectivly cuts all of them

I guess if I get the AOEM-NIS2 I don't have to limit myself to an amp that takes balanced inputs either, so its a double win.

 

i don't suppose there's any way to get ahold of the connectors used by the Bose amp so that you could produce a proper patch harness that would plug inline

in my install, i didn't cut any wires either.... all i did was use vampire taps on the wires i needed. they're still intact... if i ever remove the system, alittle electrical tape around the spot where i used the tap and it's good as new