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Anybody using a JL500/5 for the whole car?

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  #1  
Old 11-16-2005 | 01:25 PM
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Anybody using a JL500/5 for the whole car?

First off, I did try a search....I guess maybe the term is too short for the search engine?

Anyway, I'm wanting to do some nice door speakers, stock rear speakers, and a JL10" sub in the back and figured having one amp mounted on the back seat would be for a nice clean install....I was just wondering if 100w per chan up front and 250 for the sub would be enough for this car. I've not had a car with a trunk in probably 7 years so I don't know if I need more power than normal since this isnt a hatchback.

The foot and a half long 500/5 fits fine on the back seat right?
 
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Old 11-16-2005 | 02:01 PM
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A car does not really dictate the wattage your amp should have. Also, wattage doesn't mean a whole lot. I am running 150w components in the front off of my JL500/5... and you would never know the difference. In the end it's more about the components you buy then the amp. Is there a difference between 100w and 150w? Sure. Can you hear it? maybe. Is there a difference between 100w coming from a JL vs. 100w coming from a diamond audio amp? Sure. Can you hear it? Maybe. But I think the differences are minimal at best.
 
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Old 11-16-2005 | 02:26 PM
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Yeah, sorry, I guess it is a pretty vague question with no real answer. I appreciate your response.

I guess I'm mostly just wanting some affirmation that others here are using a 500/5 and are happy with it.

LOC on the way, 4080 box on the way...the rest is still up in the air.
 
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Old 11-16-2005 | 02:28 PM
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Dont need a LOC if you are using a JL amp from what I have read.
 
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Old 11-16-2005 | 02:46 PM
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you still need a LOC or somesort if your going to use stock headunit.
 
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Old 11-16-2005 | 03:44 PM
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I understand I wont need a LOC if I use a JL amp, but I also didnt want to cut into the wires to get a balanced output from the stock headunit so the LOC for $50 is totally plug and play, and reversable with no signs of wire tampering. Plus it means I can consider any amp on the market rather than only considering JL (although I'll probably still get a JL).
 
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Old 11-16-2005 | 03:55 PM
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I started out with a jl 500 amp for all new speakers, component in front and coax in rear, and a 10" sub in the trunk. There was enough power to run everything, but the sub wasn't as powerful as I wanted. So I had the 500 just for the sub, and a 300 for the speakers. It is much better now. I also got rid of my stock head unit.
I also live in Studio City, by the way.
 
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Old 11-16-2005 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jmX
I understand I wont need a LOC if I use a JL amp, but I also didnt want to cut into the wires to get a balanced output from the stock headunit so the LOC for $50 is totally plug and play, and reversable with no signs of wire tampering. Plus it means I can consider any amp on the market rather than only considering JL (although I'll probably still get a JL).
how are you going to hook up a LOC without tapping into the stock wiring? most LOCs accept bare wire inputs.... did you find one that is truly "plug and play" with the stock harness?
 
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Old 11-16-2005 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by SI_G35Coupe
how are you going to hook up a LOC without tapping into the stock wiring? most LOCs accept bare wire inputs.... did you find one that is truly "plug and play" with the stock harness?
ditto - a loc does not remove the need to tap the wires in your trunk, UNLESS you get the PAC AOEM-NIS2... then you can avoid taping the wires.

A LOC simply converts speaker wires into RCA. In other words, you still have to tap the speaker wires in the trunk in order to connect them to the LOC so that the LOC can convert them to RCA to connect to your JL slash amp.
 
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Old 11-16-2005 | 04:52 PM
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As for affirmation of the 500/5 amp... if I could do it again I probably would not use it. I say this because I have disconnected all of my rear speakers. I now agree that rear speakers are a communist plot to take over the world. In other words, I think they are silly and do not add accurately to your listening experience. Usually it just screws up your quality in the end. Look for something that can power both your sub and your components sufficiently, but perhaps with a smaller footprint than the giant 500/5... that's my main beef with it. But I'd definately go with another JL slash amp.
 
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Old 11-16-2005 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by amthar
ditto - a loc does not remove the need to tap the wires in your trunk, UNLESS you get the PAC AOEM-NIS2... then you can avoid taping the wires.

A LOC simply converts speaker wires into RCA. In other words, you still have to tap the speaker wires in the trunk in order to connect them to the LOC so that the LOC can convert them to RCA to connect to your JL slash amp.
my understanding is that this PAC adapter will only plug in behind the OEM headunit, thus requiring RCAs be run to the amps in the trunk... anyone know if it will plug into the harness in the trunk?
 
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Old 11-16-2005 | 05:12 PM
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It will not connect to the harness in the trunk. The harness in the trunk consists of two plugs, not just one. And these plugs have a mishmash of wires. Some of the headunit's output wires are in the same plug as some of the speaker output wires coming from the stock Bose amp. there are also some switched and battery power lines in there. It's nuckin futs.
 
  #13  
Old 11-16-2005 | 05:25 PM
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DCutz21, cool...studio city seems like a nice place....its right near work for me, and its a $15 taxi ride to the clubs in hollywood. I really like it, I just moved here from Austin, TX (where the women are 10x hotter, but so is the weather). Are there any quality local stereo shops in studio city, north hollywood or sherman oaks that have below-MSRP prices?

SI_G35Coupe, I got a PAC AOEM-NIS2. It plugs in behind the stock stereo and then you run RCA cables to the trunk. No wires need to be cut.

amthar, actually, I do agree somewhat. For years in my vette I've just run focal components up front, no rears, and a sub and it sounds great. I was actually planning on ignoring the 2 25w channels in the 500/5 if it sounded bad, which would leave me with a 250w for the sub, and 100w each for up front.

I guess I should see if there's 2 JL amps that get me similar power for almost the same price. Seemed like 2 seperate amps with similar power cost more than the 500/5.
 
  #14  
Old 11-16-2005 | 06:07 PM
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The person that did my set was someone I knew who worked at the goodguys in beverly hills, but goodguys went out of business, so he isn' there anymore. I go to someone else for all of my audio stuff. He is in Glendale. He has his own shop and is really good. If you want his number let me know.
 
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