yes

 

I had a question about wiring too (I think this is right but i want to make sure).
if I want to use a JLA 450/4 to power front comp & stock rears (coax and 6x9's), should I just wire both the rears together?
ie: Take the + from the coax left and 6x9 left and - from coax left/6x9 left to one of the JLA speaker outs, and do the same for the right set of speakers?

Also this would halve the wattage to each speaker right? So if its 75w per ch, then each rear speaker would be gettin about 37.5w rms?

yea sorry if its a stupid question...

 

Wiring the stock rears together in parellel will drop your resistance to a level un-usable by the amp... I think. Wiring them in series may work, but I don't know the stock impedence of the stock rears in order to know if this is even possible.

 

<edit>
I think i'm going to go ahead and read this site =)

...it just might answer my question....hahah

http://www.bcae1.com/

 

yes that is a good site

 

ok so basically i could put the rear speakers in series (connect neg from coax to pos on 6x9 and get an effective impedence of 4ohm) and the amp would run 75w across that...

 

If the stock speakers are 2 ohms each, yes. I have no idea what their resistance is... they are not all standard, that's for sure.

 

Here's the thing

i don't need to use rca for jl 300/4 amplfier, but what would happen if i use one???? gonna use peripheral sven4 for it. if i take the bose amp out, where would i get the signal for the sub amplifier. as i don't see a pair of rca output from the jl 300/4 amp

thanks

 

You could use a pair of Y splitters and split the rear channels and run one pair of RCA's to the rear channels on the 300/4 and the other to your sub amp. If you are using a JL slash sub amp then you could also just run the rear channel RCA's to your sub amp and use the pass through output on the sub amp to get the rear channel signal to the 300/4. This is how I wired my 250/1 and 300/4.

 

Why do you say there isn't a factory system with true balanced outputs? Differential drive circuitry is quite easy to implement. Please explain.

 

^^ +1 ditto.

 

He meant "aftermarket", I think.

Many aftermarket systems say "balanced inputs" but they mean "balanced-compatible inputs".

True balanced (like in a pro XLR connector) means a (+), a (-), and an audio GND (in the Bose system, this is referenced to chassis ground, I believe, or is a single seperate wire), and inversion summing circuitry on the input to get rid of inducted noise. All the balanced-compatible inputs use the (+) and lack any ability to do the inversion summing that gets rid of any inducted noise.

That's why you better use twisted pair

 

i am about to splice the wire from the headunit, just have have quick question, which harness (harness at the bose amp) is the input signal from the bose head unit??? blue/black or white???????????

 

Head Output Front Right + Orange/Blue
Head Output Front Right - White/Blue

Head Output Front Left + White
Head Output Front Left - Orange

Head Output Rear Right + Blue
Head Output Rear Right - Pink

Head Output Rear Left + Teal
Head Output Rear Left - Purple

Remote Wire Light Blue/ Silver


is there another pair for the subs from the headnunit too?

 

Here is a list of all the wiring color assignments.

You will need to splice into both harnesses in order to obtain all the wires you will ultimately need to finish the install.

http://digitalwheelz.com/diy/boseAmpWiringColors.html