maybe from Stan??

 

Just to let u know MB Quart are very bright as discussed above. Im going to get some warmer sounding speakers still deciding betweent edi 6500s and DLS UP6... they should be similiar sounding speakers

 

My vote would strongly be for the DLS. But thats what my ears like out of the two.

 

Can u describe whats the difference from ur experience?

 

I personally wouldnt give a dime to Ben to begin with. Other than that I think the DLS are a bit more detailed and the eDs lack a bit of midbass. Smoother more relaxed tweet would go to the UPs as well.

 

etang789,

By the way, your stock Bose head unit has HEAVY equalization curves built into the audio outputs that are designed to make up for the lack of high frequency response of the very inexpensive Bose speakers that come with this system. When you hook a pair of speakers with flat frequency response (ie: PCE 216's which will play all the way to 20K flat without the help of an eq) to a headunit with HEAVY equalization in the upper frequency range, you should end up with a "harsh" sounding system! What is most interesting to me is that the edi6500s sound good in this environment. IMHO, there must be something very wrong with the ED speaker's response (EI: a severe lack of high frequency extension like the original Bose speakers) which makes them sound ok with all that equalization.

My advice is to get another head unit!

My 2 cents.

 

I thought the Bose had a flat eq curve from the headunit...and the amp was the one with the funky eq curve.

Amthar has his stock HU and doesnt seem to have any problems..

 

Good thing it's just 2 cents, because you're wrong. If you read through the hundreds of posts on this forum, it has been documented, tested, retested, implemented and explained that the equalization in the G35 Bose system occurs in the stock Bose amplifier- which is not part of the HU (it is in the trunk, under the left plastic flooring piece). Connecting the stock Clarion-built HU in the premium Bose system to an aftermarket amp which accepts a balanced-differential input will work perfectly, with no equalization.

The HU does have it's shortcomings. It seems to distort if you fade fully to the front and begins to roll off after you start going past 25ish on the volume. But both of these can be non-issues given certain design parameters of a new system.

 

I have just went on a road trip with my friends car. After listening continuously for 6 hours I have to say the edi6500s imaging and smoothness are very well suited for Canto-pop. Seems like its more depth and warmth to the song played through his system than mine. But my system is better in like Maroon 5 those kinda songs.

 

I just had MB Quart Q series compponents installed in my sedan. They sound good too me. I haven't heard the P line series before. I also heard the Q line with out the subs and they could be considered "bright". They sure were loud. It's been my experience that the bass must be matched to the componenets to sound beeter. You have to match the quality, power, and the frequency to match the highs and mids to a particular vehicle's space and speaker location. An EQ doesn't hurt either.

 

Amthar, I should have been more clear. I am under the assumption that the audio signal is being tapped from the Bose amp with line level adaptors as most installers would have done unless clear instructions were given prior to the installation, and even then it could be wired wrong.

Etang, are you and your friend tapping signal exactly the same way? did u do the install or did someone else? Are u utilizing the balanced outs or are u using an adaptor?

The other thing that could cause such a huge difference between the two systems is if the polarity of one driver is reversed or worse yet, one side is reversed (out of phase) with the other side.

Answers to these questions will probably clear things up a bit.

 

Just to add to the thread............
MbQuart QSD's sound amazing!

 

Most installers are idiots when it comes to doing audio integrations/upgrades on OEM systems. I talked to 4 different local shops and all of them said that upgrading the sound system while leaving the stock "Bose" HU was impossible unless you used a JL CleanSweep. Furthermore there have been many posts on here re: others who have been told the same thing by their local audio shops. I can understand why, they don't want to get involved in the nitty-gritty electronics theory required to do quality OEM integrated upgrades. They'd rather tap after the amp and be done with it, or tell you you need a cleansweep, or tell you that a double din conversion with an HU upgrade is necessary. So saying "as most installers" doesn't mean much around here.

 

Unfortunately, amthar is right.

I have been in the car audio business since 1986 (turned 40 this year - ugh!) and most installers are - well, I'll say ignorami, rather than idiots - but it's true.

The reason the Clean Sweep was revolutionary for the industry is that it is almost installer proof, being self adjusting.

The industry has been paying less and less for installers, at a time when America has been staying away from "blue-collar" professions that were once honorable (carpentry, plumbing, and auto mechanics, all once respected profeessions, have all been having trouble attracting good candidates).

A year ago I started our little shop in Portland with the express purpose of specializing in OEM HU interface, BECAUSE all the shops sucked at it so bad. We have a $1500 handheld audio analyzer, a handheld oscilloscope, an impedance meter, etc.

Now that the CS and the Rockford 360 have dropped to $359 MSP, this isn't a good way to differentiate ourselves any longer - it doesn't look special.

So we're going to have to find a new path, I think...

 

Car PCs, Car PCs!