Hi people, I read a lot of these post and i want to add an amp and 2 10's to my car. Now i have a stock 07 coup and i want to keep my HU but i want to add a amp and speaker. I read that the car comes with an amp in the trunk under the rear support. So do i use the amp that is in the car as a pre-amp to the amp?

Ok let me make this simple..

1: What do i need to add 2 10's or 2 12's or 1 speaker to my car with keeping the stock HU and why do the speakers face the rear of the car instead where i would be. I'm not in the trunk. hehehe

2: i want to use a amp (aftermarket) can someone recommend one that will work great with the stock HU? and remember broke as a joke.. (meaning i don't want to spend over 200 for an amp)

 

I am able to enjoy some added bass while I wait to get all my gear together for my full custom install. Presently I am running 2 JL 10W6s and 1 JL Audio 500/1 Amp running the 2 subs. This set up is overkill for the oem system, I had to turn down the gains to its lowest setting. If you are to keep the original oem system and just want to add extra bass, I would suggest running a single 10 and maybe a less powerful amp. I prefer using an amp with more power for additional headroom(cleaner sound) but hey thats me, but for the budget the latter would be a better choice for most people. I was not able to take pics at this moment but I will soon in the next few days.

 

Just trying to figure out a few things before taking the final step.. So far, I have a sub and box that fits in my car, new front components and a cheap amp that I had left over from my previous car. Now what I need is some way to get the signal from my stock NON-BOSE HU, to the amp. From what I've read here, I need an LOC that will convert the differential balanced signals to standard single-ended inputs. I was discussing this with my friend, and he recomended the MTX RE-Q, because he said it fixes the problem of the stock HU turning down your bass at higher volumes. However, I'm unsure if it will convert differential balanced to single-ended. I could go with an LOC that I know does this, but will this other LOC prevent the bass from being choked by the stock HU? I just don't know... The only thing I know that will do what I want, is the JL Cleansweep, but my system is very low-end, and basic, and I don't want to go with such an expensive solution, because it's overkill for my needs. Any ideas, pointers? Really confused here.

 

From my understanding the bass cutting off issue was related to the BOSE system, I am unsure if the non-Bose system works the same way. I know I have issues with my Bose system cutting off the bass from my aftermarket subs when I turn up the system after volume level 13. LOCS are not that expensive, I would use the LOCS first, and if the latter proves to be true then you can upgrade for the MTX-RE-Q or JL Cleansweep if the bass cut off gets annoying...I know it annoys me but then I just like listening to my music a tad louder. Honestly if you need to shell out over $ 300 for any of the 2 equipment you might as well go for an aftermarket unit. If you go for a single-DIN unit...u can can customize the install right where the ashtray is, this will entail relocating the Hazard button and removal of the ashtray and a little fiberglass to finish it off. There is enough space in this area and very minor modification needs to be done in regards to the upper brackets for the radio trim. This is a very viable alternative if you dont want to mess with the oem radio removal. There's also the Metra kit if you can't justify spending another $ 300 for the Double-DIN conversion.

 

Your amp is probably getting its signal after the signal goes through the Bose amp. It's not an issue if you tap into the low level signal before it enters the Bose amp. Your issue is the main reason why the Bose amp should be removed and replaced with a real amp.

 

I followed the wiring instructions from the thread, tapped into wiring harness before going into the OEM Bose Amp. It actually works out for me now, since its pushing me to get the Double-DIN conversion and the Pioneer D3 I have on hold...lol. hmmmm...I should have the first part of my install done by the end of the month.

 

I am runnin a 4 ch and a 1ch amp, i'm getin a lot of engine noise HELP

 

Are both amps grounded to the same location? How is the audio signal connected to the amp?

 

LIKE A BUZZING THAT GETS LOUDER WHENE YOU REV THE ENGINE .??

 

Hello all,

I am new to the forum with a G37, I have had the car almost two weeks and I am ready to overhaul the audio system. Does anyone know where I can find a schematic for the existing system or a pin out of the molex connectors that are connected to the amplifiers in the back? I would like to determine if the current system uses passive or electronic x-overs? I would like to upgrade the amps, speakers and add a sub. What is the best method. I currently have a couple real nice balanced zapco amps with the x-over. I was thinking of taking the balanced output from the head unit to the Zapco electronic x-over then running one amp for front and one for back and take the sub out to another amp. Do the current speakers have any networks on them or do they get x-over from the bose amps? any help would be appreciated. thank you Z

 

I don't know of anyone that has tackled the G37 system yet. Maybe someone else can help.

 

Good post with good information. It sounds like you know a few things about this audio stuff.

 

I have kappa 60.7CS in the front, 62.7i coax for the side fills and 692.7i coax for the rear deck.

I know the stock amp only outputs lows to the rear deck as "subs" so my coax rears ain't doing anything but bass.

What I would like to do is get a 6 channel amp like this to replace the stock:

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...nel&i=136A6450

and if I need additional bass which I think I will I can add a basslink.

My question is how do I get the 2 rear full range channel outputs from the stock HU to feed 4 of the 6 amp channels so I can get full range signal to both the rear sides and the rear deck? Can I just split the 2 into 4 or is that going to cut signal to all? And then where do I tap the basslink into?

 

You will have to find an amp with a built in crossover and the ability to get the sub signal from the front or rear channels. The JL slash amps do that, and I'm sure many others do.

 

Clear as mud. Crossover for what? All the kappas have their own crossover and i am pretty sure the basslink does too.

What I am asking is how do I get the stock HU 4 channel output to feed 6 amp channels and a powered sub?