DIY: How to Properly Aim 06+ Coupe Projectors
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,911
Likes: 8
From: Seattle, WA
DIY: How to Properly Aim 06+ Coupe Projectors
Since so many people have been picking up the recalled 06 headlights and installing them on their cars without doing any sort of aiming, I figured it was about time this was posted so you don't go around blinding all the other drivers on the road. Improper aiming leads to all sorts of beam issues and glare for other drivers and is extremely inconsiderate. If you have ever removed your projector headlights, or even had the recall work done, check your cutoff using this guide, as none of the dealerships seem to be performing any type of aiming at all.
Tools:
Long thin phillips head screwdriver
Tape measure
Masking tape
Find a location with a flat wall and level ground that you can use as your measurement surface. Aiming is done at a distance of 25ft from the wall, so the area needs to be decently sized. Warehouse/industrial areas are usually good places, find somewhere at night with little ambient light so the contrast is better.
Park your car on level ground 25ft from the wall measured from the front of the projectors, leaving the lights on. Pop the hood to locate the adjustment screw for the projectors. Pics below show how to adjust them. I don't remember if clockwise is up or down, but its pretty easy to figure out by just turning the screw and seeing which direction the lights go.



Below is the alignment guideline for how to aim your headlight cutoff.

A.
This is your reference line, it is the distance between the ground and the middle of the projectors. Measure this distance with the tape measure, and transfer this to the wall, making a straight line parallel to the ground at this height with the masking tape. All your aiming is based off this line, so make sure it is straight and the right height
B. This is the amount of slope the headlights have to meet DOT specs. At 25ft, the lower step of the cutoff should be 2.1-2.5" below the middle of the projector, which is the reference line in red that you marked using the masking tape previously. Check each headlight seperately to make sure the lower step falls on this line.
C.
This is the distance between the projectors, and is measured between the centers of the two projectors. This distance on the wall is measured between the slopes of the two projector cutoffs. This measurement is to make sure the projectors are actually pointed straight ahead. Another way to make sure is to drive towards and away from the wall and see if the two angled slopes move left and right. If they aren't pointed straight, either loosen the headlight bolts and adjust them until they are straight, or remove the headlights and adjust the two 8mm bolts on the rear which adjust the horizontal alignment. This is a tedious process and will require multiple removal/reinstalls
D. This is the distance from the projectors to the wall as mentioned before, 25ft. This is the standard distance for measurement performed to meet DOT specs.
Make sure that the lower and upper cutoffs are even with each other and that they are parallel to the ground. If they are rotated/angled, its likely the way the headlights were installed, and you need to loosen the bolts and adjust them around until they are level.
Hopefully now at least we can limit the amount issues with people installing recalled headlights, or those who have removed/ installed 06+ headlights. This needs to be done EACH TIME the headlights are removed and reinstalled as slight alignment issues can wreak havoc on cutoffs.
Tools:
Long thin phillips head screwdriver
Tape measure
Masking tape
Find a location with a flat wall and level ground that you can use as your measurement surface. Aiming is done at a distance of 25ft from the wall, so the area needs to be decently sized. Warehouse/industrial areas are usually good places, find somewhere at night with little ambient light so the contrast is better.
Park your car on level ground 25ft from the wall measured from the front of the projectors, leaving the lights on. Pop the hood to locate the adjustment screw for the projectors. Pics below show how to adjust them. I don't remember if clockwise is up or down, but its pretty easy to figure out by just turning the screw and seeing which direction the lights go.
Below is the alignment guideline for how to aim your headlight cutoff.

A.
This is your reference line, it is the distance between the ground and the middle of the projectors. Measure this distance with the tape measure, and transfer this to the wall, making a straight line parallel to the ground at this height with the masking tape. All your aiming is based off this line, so make sure it is straight and the right height
B. This is the amount of slope the headlights have to meet DOT specs. At 25ft, the lower step of the cutoff should be 2.1-2.5" below the middle of the projector, which is the reference line in red that you marked using the masking tape previously. Check each headlight seperately to make sure the lower step falls on this line.
C.
This is the distance between the projectors, and is measured between the centers of the two projectors. This distance on the wall is measured between the slopes of the two projector cutoffs. This measurement is to make sure the projectors are actually pointed straight ahead. Another way to make sure is to drive towards and away from the wall and see if the two angled slopes move left and right. If they aren't pointed straight, either loosen the headlight bolts and adjust them until they are straight, or remove the headlights and adjust the two 8mm bolts on the rear which adjust the horizontal alignment. This is a tedious process and will require multiple removal/reinstalls
D. This is the distance from the projectors to the wall as mentioned before, 25ft. This is the standard distance for measurement performed to meet DOT specs.
Make sure that the lower and upper cutoffs are even with each other and that they are parallel to the ground. If they are rotated/angled, its likely the way the headlights were installed, and you need to loosen the bolts and adjust them around until they are level.
Hopefully now at least we can limit the amount issues with people installing recalled headlights, or those who have removed/ installed 06+ headlights. This needs to be done EACH TIME the headlights are removed and reinstalled as slight alignment issues can wreak havoc on cutoffs.
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,911
Likes: 8
From: Seattle, WA
Originally Posted by shimmy
Nice write up!
Is there any way to adjust the tilt of each headlight? For ex... the cutoff one one light could be like / or like \ , but wants to be more horizontal, like - .
Is there any way to adjust the tilt of each headlight? For ex... the cutoff one one light could be like / or like \ , but wants to be more horizontal, like - .
Isnt the drivers side supposed to sit like this / slightly?
What is that called by the way? cutoff? gradient? I need to learn my headlight terms.
What is that called by the way? cutoff? gradient? I need to learn my headlight terms.
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,911
Likes: 8
From: Seattle, WA
Originally Posted by lekker_droom
Isnt the drivers side supposed to sit like this / slightly?
What is that called by the way? cutoff? gradient? I need to learn my headlight terms.
What is that called by the way? cutoff? gradient? I need to learn my headlight terms.
Originally Posted by redlude97
no, the cutoff should be perfectly horizontal, if its angled then its usually an install error
ive been super lazy to fix the cut off i think my driver side is a little higher than passenger side...
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,911
Likes: 8
From: Seattle, WA
Originally Posted by G35Pinoy
ive been super lazy to fix the cut off i think my driver side is a little higher than passenger side...
awesome write up. My passenger headlight was fine...but the driver's side needed to go lower.
BTW, if you turn the adjustment screw clockwise, it lowers the beam and if it's turned counterclockwise, it raises the beam.
BTW, if you turn the adjustment screw clockwise, it lowers the beam and if it's turned counterclockwise, it raises the beam.


