No problem Scott....
I'm loving this thing
On the install....it's one of those things that would be WAY easier the 2nd time

 

Ian, how is the hood clearance, any touching, rubbing issues? Thanks.

 

Excellent DIY help.

Nice work great job of overcoming the obstacles you ran into.

Best of all it's great you're happy with it.

 

No hood clearance problems for me.

JMO, but I'm wondering if it may be partially install related.
The bracket tab that attaches to the new A-arm bolt is slotted (rather than a hole)
I noticed that it had a tendancy to ride up.

I made sure the slot was bottomed right out (as low as it would go)
I also used a washer under the nut.
I tightened the A-arm bolt first........
>then tightened the stut top bolts.

I think that tightening the strut top bolts first, may pull the A-arm slotted tab up.
This would raise the overall mounting height.

 

Thanks for the detailed DIY with pics!

Can you provide any further advice to get it to work with the stock airbox (or wa2good, if you have any pics, install tips)?

It sounds like you had to modify the OEM snorkel that attaches to the stillen airbox - would this be the only issue for the OEM airbox as well or are there other clearance issues?

Or should a pop charger / stillen airbox just be considered mandatory?

 

I didn't spend too much time on the OEM air box.
It will def not work w/o some modification.

It would require shifting the location, similar to what I did with the Stillen.
The problem with that will be the intake snorkel.
With the Stillen was easy chop a piece off..... probably not so easy with the OEM.

Also, the OEM was tighter to the A-arm attachment point.
It would take a little heat gun work to give a little more clearance.

Once I get caught up with other things,
I may have another crack at the OEM air box later this summer.

 

I have a question about this part of the process:
1. If you leave the nut in the sway bar link then using a hammer isn't going to disengage it - not sure what you mean there?

2. Any specifics of where you place the jack supporting the axle?

3. It's not clear to me why you need to lower the strut to change the A arm bolt. With the jack holding it up, can't you just unbolt, replace bolt, retighten?

Thanks!

 

Just leave the nut on the end to tap (loosen) the link back.
Then take it off.
This to prevent damaging the threads on the drop link
At the bottom of the hub... it's pretty obvious when you look.
There isn't enough room behind the strut/spring to remove the bolt.
The strut has to come forward.

 

I'm looking into this as we speak. Nice DIY write up. It's members like you inTgr8r that make a huge difference here. I hope I'm speaking for everyone when I say, Thank You, Thank You, Thank You for this write up!

-WoW

 

Very nice install instructions.

 

I'll second that feeling. The second time around would be much easier to do.

One of the best instant feedback suspension modifications I've done so far. Tightened up the front suspension and it was noticeable immediately.

Thanks again Scott!

 

Nice DIY write-up. I hope to be installing mine soon. I was curious though, any pointers on bending the AC line? My AC line sits too close to the bolts on the driver side strut.

 

one of the best write ups i have seen in a while,just awesome.im thinking of doing this to my coupe as well.just gotta come up with the dollars first.

 

Nice writeup. I find it simply amazing that a strut bar which moves that far out could help at all, but sounds like you like it.

 

^ ???? ^

it's rigid.

it doesn't move at all.

errr, otherwise it wouldn't add any chassis rigidity...