VRT Strut Tower Brace Installation
Part 1 – In conjunction with supplied instructions

The first thing to realize with this product is that it’s not simply replacing an OEM part like a Z-tube or sway bars etc.
It’s a new part that is designed and adapted to work with our cars.
Since it has to work around all the existing hardware, there is a little finesse required to get it bolted up.

The first thing is to get the front end up on jack stands & wheels off.
After that get the air box & MAF out of the way (I removed them completely)

On the right side you will also need to remove a small bracket at the top of the strut tower. (see pic-1)
Also, disconnect the power steering bracket. (see pic-1)

PIC-1

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Next, I installed the longer A-arm bolt.
To do this you need to drop the strut out of the tower to give you room to change the bolt.
** place a floor jack under the axle to control the weight while lowering.

I’ve had my suspension apart several times b4, the following is the procedure I follow…….. (see pic-2)
1. Remove the 3 nuts on the tower.
2. I’ve found that the easiest way to drop the strut is to disconnect the A-arm upper ball joint.
3. Then, disconnect the sway bar link. (loosen & leave nut on the end… tap with hammer to drive it out)
4. lower the jack & strut will drop out of the holes… pull it forward to give room to get at the A-arm bolt…..
pay attention to the ABS sensor wire,keep some slack in it so that it doesn’t get pulled
5. Remove OEM A-arm bolt and replace with VRT supplied bolt.
6. Use the floor jack to lift & guide the strut into place,
7. Bolt up the remaining suspension parts (don’t forget the sway bar link)

NOTE:
Pick up some replacement cotter pins for the A-arm upper ball joint.
Torque #s
- A-arm upper ball joint 45lb
- Sway bar link; 65lb (use a spanner to keep ball from turning while tightening)
- A-arm replacement bolt 44lb
** drop your air intake & MAF into place (loosely) before bolting up the STB

PIC-2

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Next, I reworked the A/C line so that there would be no rubbing issues.
It can be costly to replace this line, as some early installers of CAI systems found out.
The A/C line is aluminium, and is very soft.
It can be reshaped by hand making very gentle bends.

When reshaping be VERY CAUTIOUS!
If you kink it…. you will be replacing it $$$

PIC-3 original location

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PIC-4 revised location

 

Part 2 – modifying/fitting the Stillen
The clearances are pretty tight.
You will have to play with things to get them to fit.
I started out with the OEM air box, but gave up on it.

I went with a Stillen CAI because I liked the OEM look of it
& I thought it provided a little better isolation from the under hood heat.
I quickly found out that the Stillen also requires some modification to make it work.

I think most other CAI systems (Injen, JWT pop charger.. et al ) would provide more clearance than the Stillen.

OK, on to the Stillen….
The issue boiled down to the fact the Stillen had to be shifted to the (drivers) right.
This was required to get clearance for the MAF.

Shifting to the right presented a problem with the OEM snorkel which attaches to the Stillen.
It no longer matched the mounting point holes (see pic-5)
(same applied to the Stillen bolt hole)

PIC-5


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In order to get this to fit, the Stillen box had to be cut to be able to connect the OEM snorkel.
PIC-6 – Marking the Stillen for the cut. ~ about ¾”

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PIC-7 – Giving it the chop…..


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PIC-8 – Done…..

 

WOW... nice DIY... congrats...looks sweet.. notice any more anti-body roll?

 

This bar is everything others have said & more.
I could not believe the difference this made in the car.

Like someone else said b4, I could feel the difference just backing out of the driveway.
Just driving down the road & hitting irregularities or dip in the pavement....
you can actually feel the suspension working without jarring & twisting the car.

& steering.. it's like comparing a scalpel to a machete.
Don't get me wrong, it's still no sports car... but WOW.

 

Nice write up. When you bought this product did VRT send you a instrucion guide? If they did are there intrucions str8 foward or not?

 

Yes intructions are included.

They are straight forward, but not down to the fine detail level.
They are writen for someone that has a basic understanding of what is required.
The above augments the supplied instructions.

 

I'm very glad to hear that the VRT FSTB does indeed fit the sedan. I'm certainly going to be placing my order with them this week.

Can you give some more feedback as to your driving impressions? Also, do you feel you need to make any more changes to your existing suspension to make the most out of this mod (i.e. modify the settings on your sways)?

Thanks for your write-up/review.

 

Hey I noticed that you have slotted and drilled rotors. Where did you get them and how do they feel. My brake warranty is gone so i was thinking of getting new rotors.

 

Haven't had a lot of seat time yet (finished it yesterday).

I see no need (at this point) to make any other suspension tuning changes.
This STB just lets the suspension do the job it's designed for.
It's point & shoot.... the car just flat out performs.
MUCH more solid and confidence inspiring.

I know this STB is a cost issue for some,
JMO, but it really is a must do for the G35.

 

Racingbrake
Good economical OEM replacements.

 

Excellent write-up. Now, you have me thinking about this mod.

 

great DIY and review.........im sure you got a lot of people considering this mod now

 

sorry guys....
The made me do it

 

Excellent write up. That powdercoated black looks great. Now I wish I had bought this piece when I did my Tokico D-Spec, Cusco A-Arm install a while back! Would had saved me some labor doing it all at once.

 

Thanks for the write up Ian, I am glad you agree it is everything we (and other customers) say it is. Sorry, it seems that you had alittle more trouble than most on this install, but glad you got it on there.


Once again, if anyone else is interested in this brace contact me here.....
wa2good@hotmail.com