Installed new front brakes today, Hawk pads and Stillen slotted/drilled rotors.

I have very little stopping power.

I have a decent "pedal", but from 60mph, I can put it to the floor (takes effort), and the vehicle eases to a stop, no ABS activation.
At 80, if i lightly brake, I get a vibration, like warped rotors, but I dont feel it with moderat / heavy braking....

Do they need to break in some more???

I think I did the bed-in process wrong. Can u use brake cleaner on the rotors and start over?

Which Hawk pads did you use? Some don't start to work well untill they reach "track" temps.

Two things that come to mind.
1. bleeding the air from the system.
2. bed in of the pads.
Vibration sounds like you left deposit on the rotors.

When bedding did you lock them up, or come to a complete stop?
Coming to a complete stop will leave deposits that can cause vibrations.

I think I may have come to a stop, yes...

Its tough, I dont live in an area I can do the bedding, I have to drive somewhere to do it.

Can i re-do it? Will brake cleaner get those pads clean again? Maybe a little scrubbing actoin with a brillo bad?

The pads are Hawk HPS, came in a purple box

An finish sander with 240 grit then brake clean.

If you really have uneven pad deposits on your rotors I'd suggest using this to remove the pad film layer.

http://www.midwayautosupply.com//det...tion.asp?12779

Then after you are finished be sure to clean the rotors well with hot water and soap and a non-scratch scotch brite pad. Brake cleaner spray alone isn't good enough. Then when you go to bed in your brakes be sure you don't come to a complete stop. If you do have to come to a complete stop don't hold the brake pedal. If you must because you are on a hill use your e-brake instead.

Here's some good advice from Hawk themselves.

Q: What can I do during installation to ensure my brakes won't squeal?

A: First, choose Hawk Performance high performance disc brake pads as your upgrade over other aftermarket brake suppliers. The next best steps you can take to avoid having noisy brakes are:

• Turn / machine the rotors (machining off a small layer of the brake rotor to make it smooth again)
• Wash and dry the rotor to rid of debris
• Install the pads securely and according to instruction
• Properly bed-in the pads according to instruction
• Apply a thin layer of a silicone compound called anti-squeal brake lube on the back of the brake pads

Burnishing Instructions

1. After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4. Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
5. After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.

Regarding the bedding process, everyone suggests something different...

**** says 6-10 stops from 30, then 2-3 from 40......

Others say 10 stops from 60, cool for 15, repeat three times....

Grrr

Anyone know where i might be able to get that product localy?

Found it at a small auto parts store, I guess I have a project all set for me this weekend

Sand away all you want. What you will have left is still going to be Hawk pads.

Hawk pads are intended for racing applications where they run hot. In street driving, they do not heat up enough to be effective.

Not exactly true...Hawk does make pads for street use. Check out this link from Stoptech... http://www.stoptech.com/products/hig...nce_pads.shtml

Anyways, to the op, just remove the old brake pad material from the rotors with the sander and do the bedding process correctly and you'll be fine. (assuming you have the street pads of course )

HPS = Hawk Performance Street


I think I'll be fine




Im also wondering I wasnt able to change the rears becasue I coudlnt get the caliped off, no air tools, and no way a wrench in there. So im wondering if im getting a pulse rom the rear

Poor braking quality resolved by rebleeding, rears going on soon

Update:
Well, this morning I had my rear rotors installed. I coudnt get the calliper bracket off because of no space, so I had to pay someone to do it. $75. Not bad.
So now I have a delima: I have f'ed up front brakes, and brand new rear brakes that have to be bedded in. WTF? So, I get in my car, and drive home, in rush hour traffic, 39 miles. Without using the brakes! It was tricky, but I took my time.

So I removed the front rotors, and sanded them down with the 3M kit someone suggested on here. Got those pads nice and clean! I also took the sanding pads and scuffed the surface of the pads, since they seemed to be glazed over. Jumped in the car, and headed for the only place I could think of that I could easily 1) bed in the brakes from 60-80 mph and 2) close to the highway for the cooloff period. It was actualy an access road to Rhode Island's medium-security prison in Cranston Ri, another 30 mile drive w/out ever touching the brakes. Anyone that has driveon on 195 / 95 in Rhode Island know its a feat to not crash on any particular trip, never mind not use the brakes... but it was done...

So, now I'm finaly at my bed in location. I did 10 stops from 60-5 with full brake pressure, At about the 6th stop, I got a heavy smell of brake pads, which I read is normal. Then I jumped on the highway and did a 3 exit "loop" at about 70 mph, an 8 mile trip, and returned to my super secret race spot. This time, 10 stops from 70mph. By the 6th or 7th, I not only had a heavier smell of brake pads, but now a little bit of smoke... Again, I read as being normal. Also, by stop #5, I was getting a soft peddal. I was suprised, since I had flushed with Dot4, but again I read this was possible. After 10 stops, on to the highway for another cooloff process.

For the last set, all the stops were from 80 again to 5mph. By the 5th time, heavy smell of brake pads, lots of smoke, and by stop 10, I had almost no pedal left... Out of curiosity, (and doing so as safely as possible), i let the vehicle idle foward and applied the parking brake just enough to keep the car moving at 2mph, and stped out. I could not believe the smoke pooring out of my wheel wells. So, I then drove home, w/out braking, for the final cool off period.

I can NOT believe the increase in braking power and smoothness now.

I thought: NO WAY could it make THAT much of a difference. I bet I decreased my stopping distance by 20-30%. I know I wasnt at optimal before, but now: totaly increadible.

Thanks EVERYONE that offered tips and suggestions, I would still be an unsatisfied stillen customer