Anyone have any exp with iRotor stuff?
#1
08-24-2006, 10:49 PM
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Providence, RI
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#3
08-25-2006, 01:44 PM
The only way you can tell the quality of a cast iron rotor is to do a metallurical analysis to determine the [if] expensive additives added to the iron.
A decent simple test is to compare the weight of aftermarket to oem, if the vane count and end surfaces are the same thickness [~~9mm] the heaviest one is denser.
Difficult because 80% of world rotors are made in China and may be branded and rebranded and rebranded [box labeled] along the way.
We can buy a $22 or a $53 or a $91 or a $109 front non drilled or slotted rotor for a Q45 unless you measure and weight and examine accurate you wouldn't know which units are which! Especially which is the better value.
Time/miles to warp vs retruing or change labor.
A decent simple test is to compare the weight of aftermarket to oem, if the vane count and end surfaces are the same thickness [~~9mm] the heaviest one is denser.
Difficult because 80% of world rotors are made in China and may be branded and rebranded and rebranded [box labeled] along the way.
We can buy a $22 or a $53 or a $91 or a $109 front non drilled or slotted rotor for a Q45 unless you measure and weight and examine accurate you wouldn't know which units are which! Especially which is the better value.
Time/miles to warp vs retruing or change labor.
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