Originally Posted by Gsedan35

I never said it's a bad idea across the board to get front camber correction. What I did say was that some member's here have setups with their drops that will have more inner tire wear then I experience. Since those people are here, they should get front correction no question's.

Why don't I have a issue with inner tire wear on a 2" sedan drop? Because I make the front tires work across a greater range of the contact patch, not just the insides.

Originally Posted by drsifu1

r u guys serious?

none of you see more tire wear on the inside than the outside? i've been lowered for 23,000 miles or so and there is definitely more wear on the inside.

i don't have my camber numbers with me, but am lowered on Eibach pro-kit.

if you're happy with tires that last 25,000 miles, than you prolly don't need this camber kit. I have Toyo T1R tires.

Originally Posted by Gsedan35

Though you and I are in the same camp Ken, I'll take all the free negitive camber I can get, especially in the front.

Originally Posted by Gsedan35

Why don't I have a issue with inner tire wear on a 2" sedan drop? Because I make the front tires work across a greater range of the contact patch, not just the insides.

Originally Posted by Gsedan35

I have run 560/448, 448/427, 448/375 and 448/342 setups (and many others that are out of context) and all of them differed. The idea in the front is to use enough spring to leverage the tires to keep them in the game, to keep their contact patches as optimal as possible while still maintaining tire contact in spite of how the road surface may or may not be properly maintained. In the rear, lower rates work to improve traction on corner exit.

I recommend that you go to this thread for more insight on spring rate setup. You'll notice that I start off being very skeptical about having softer rear spring rates. http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthre...ght=truechoice

Originally Posted by FritzMan

I've often questioned the different bias vendors offer. I've concluded that those with the stiffer rear bias are designed to work with stagger - hence promote more oversteer to offset the widers rear tires.

I've played with quite a few different spring rate combinations and found the car handled best (to my driving style) with an equal or slightly softer rear spring rate compared to the front. I run non-stagger.

IMO, the rear seems to be quite a bit more sensitive to changes than the front. 106lbs/in (2 kg) increase in spring rate in the rear was a lot more obvious in ride quality than in the front.

Note that the rear inboard spring design actually reduces the spring rate compared to the front coil-over design. So a hypothetical 500 lbs/in spring rates installed on front and rear doesn't equal to identical spring rates at the hub.

Originally Posted by Gsedan35

Their are a lot of published resorces that should be read. I support their info as well as their direction to alway's verify and be willing to make adjustments.

Fred Puhn, "How to make your car handle."
Carroll Smith "Prepare to win",
Carrol Smith "Tune to win"
Carrol Smith "Engineer to win"
Author unknown "Race car engineering"

Originally Posted by zillinois

I ran the Tein Basics for about 35+ track days and I would have liked to lower the rear spring rate about 25-30lbs. Had just a touch of oversteer on exit which prevented me from gettting on the gas as hard as I would have liked. Not suprisingly, that is close to what the unitech team came up with as well.

Originally Posted by Resolute

Traditionally, as is textbook, the higher wheel rate should be placed at the driven end of the vehicle to balance the car without resorting to a bigger anti-roll bar. The bar, for those that don't already know, will lift the inside tire and remove otherwise available traction for acceleration that would be available if a higher spring rate was used instead. Of course, too high a spring rate will cause discontinuity with the tire's contact patch over rough pavement. The disparity seen on the Unitech spring rates and textbook example, is due to the freakishly high amount of anti-squat designed into the rear suspension. (Yet another reason I don't like the use of spring on damper set-ups for the rear, with their one to one motion ratios) Too high of a rear spring rate in the Z33, and the wheelhop will be too severe. Some people have machined the traction rod mount and relocated it to a level spot further down the frame to reduce the anti-squat, and they can more successfully run a higher rear spring rate without resorting to a thicker anti-roll bar.
Will

Originally Posted by chester

Guys... i am thinking about cancelling my pre-order for the spc front camber kit, i was just thinking if it was worth it, because i am lowered on eibachs and tires last a pretty good and i didn't know if it was worth it! I know guys who lowered 2 inches would be worth it but just sitting under eibach would kinda be not worth it! what you guys think?


other than tire issues being fixed what are other good things about getting a front camber kit?

Originally Posted by kenchan

spend the funds on some D-Specs.