I'll be getting my tein h-techs installed soon, which will require an alignment to get back within specs. I might also be getting the SPC rear camber/toe setup as well to fix the rear camber. However, we know that the Infiniti specs are pretty broad to begin with, so what would be the optimal settings for camber/toe for the best tire wear. Like what values should I tell the alignment guy to shoot for to limit tire wear. Towards the lower end of the specs ie less camber and zero toe? Or is some toe good for the car. I'm kinda a newb when it comes to alignment. I know zero toe will point the tires straight, but some toe is wanted for certain setups and I don't know what is optimal for a stock g35 coupe lowered on htechs

 

Anywhere you take your G for an aligment should have the specs for the car. It is not up to you to tell the tech what settings you want - they are factory specs.

 

Someone correct me, if I am mistaken, I believe that the factory alignment range for your G is: -1.3 to 0.3 Front and -1.8 to -0.8 Rear.

I recently lowered my G with the 350Z Tein H-Tech springs. I had the SPC rear camber/toe bolt combo installed at the same time. The front alignment was -1.3 left front, which is right at the recommended limit and the right front was at -1.9. That's a bit more negative camber than I really care for on a daily driver. Hopefully, the new SPC front camber set-up will get the fronts back to around -0.8. The rears were both brought back to -1.3, which is right in the middle of the range.

Oh, as far as the toe at the rear and caster/toe, etc. at the front . . . Get yourself a set of camber rods and arms and an alignment. They will be able to dial your camber, toe, caster back to center line specs for a daily driver.

 

Alignment should actually be called misalignment since certain static [sitting still] nimbers are required to optimize the suspension traveling down the road straight at 55 mph.

The factory FSM specifies a very wide range of somewhat suitable values that work to minimize warranty costs.

The middle point of these ranges are nearly ideal WHEN the oem bushings are new or nearly new................as they harden and age they may resist the forces less and deflect more.........typically toe is the one that goes first because the lower arms are subjected to more fore aft forces in acceleration and braking.

In the wide oem specs is not much of an alignment, perfection is the name of the game.

 

I just had my car aligned two days ago. Im lowered with S-techs and SPC Rear Camber. Also have 20's. Like every one eles said, they had the specs and got it to fall pretty evenly In the middle. Although one thing they told me was that they couldnt adjust the fronts at all and that I needed a special front adjustment kit as well

 

I'm in the same boat. Hopefully, I'll get the SPC front camber set-up when the first batch ships out.

 

The bushings are there to isolate road noise and vibration. Engineers develop the durometer [rubber hardness] to compromise linear deflection and the warranty mileage.

Getting an alignment print out brand new and keeping the data so you can see the progressive change in the before numbers and decide when to replace ALL the suspension bushings and arms/components.

If you use harder than oem bushings the GIVE UNDER LOAD will be different so you must recreate YOUR ALIGNMENT NUMBERS...............this is especially critical in front and rear toe since Nissan uses toe changes under acceleration and braking to create stability. Rear toe out on accel, toe in on decel and braking. The front is more boxed in by steering rack.

Lowering is the worst because of the tie rod angle created increasing bump steer.