New front brakes installed today
I installed new front brakes today, just over 60K miles. At 40K I installed new pads all around, but at 60K it was time for new rotors too.
For pads I again chose Hawk HPS. The first set performed flawlessly and with 20K miles on them still had a lot of material left.
For rotors I sourced plain OEM replacement rotors made by Brembo from Tire Rack at $91 each.
After bedding the pads in, all I can say is, what a difference!!! The old rotors were SHOT. I wasn't able to measure the remaining thickness, because there's a ridge around the perimeter of the rotor that the jaws of my caliper wouldn't clear. I'd estimate they were worn down to about 0.850".
For pads I again chose Hawk HPS. The first set performed flawlessly and with 20K miles on them still had a lot of material left.
For rotors I sourced plain OEM replacement rotors made by Brembo from Tire Rack at $91 each.
After bedding the pads in, all I can say is, what a difference!!! The old rotors were SHOT. I wasn't able to measure the remaining thickness, because there's a ridge around the perimeter of the rotor that the jaws of my caliper wouldn't clear. I'd estimate they were worn down to about 0.850".
Nismo G: Nope, I have a sedan. The rotors are OE replacement rotors for the sedan made by Brembo. They are very nicely made and you can even see where they machined off a little material to make the rotor perfectly balanced. They appear to be very high quality pieces.
Check it--
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/resul...ategory=Rotors
Chester: My brakes could use a bleed (actually I'm due for a fluid change) but I didn't today. You don't have to bleed when changing rotors and pads. You do have to press the piston back into the caliper to clear the new pads, but that doesn't require you to open the bleeder screw. Just be sure the fluid doesn't overflow out of the reservoir.
Check it--
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/resul...ategory=Rotors
Chester: My brakes could use a bleed (actually I'm due for a fluid change) but I didn't today. You don't have to bleed when changing rotors and pads. You do have to press the piston back into the caliper to clear the new pads, but that doesn't require you to open the bleeder screw. Just be sure the fluid doesn't overflow out of the reservoir.
Last edited by Dudefish; Dec 17, 2006 at 10:12 PM.
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