Rear sway bar only
Normally oem springs are set so that the front is a little stiffer [3-10%] than the rear even adjusted for weight ratios......to fine tune the undulation ratio on highway as the tires roll over seams.
Factory front sway bar is set to create safe understeer, thanks to rubber mounts and bushings this understeer increase progressively as the body rolls.
Remember the sway bar acts just like a spring when the body rolls so, your question really is what happens when the TOTAL rear roll stiffness exceeds the fore aft weight ratio..............assuming identical tires the car begins to oversteer. The more rear power applied, the more the car understeers.
Factory front sway bar is set to create safe understeer, thanks to rubber mounts and bushings this understeer increase progressively as the body rolls.
Remember the sway bar acts just like a spring when the body rolls so, your question really is what happens when the TOTAL rear roll stiffness exceeds the fore aft weight ratio..............assuming identical tires the car begins to oversteer. The more rear power applied, the more the car understeers.
Thanks Q45 for your response, I read what you mentioned in March 06
so was a bit confused..
To save money [and work] just buy a rear only 3 way adjustable and leave front alone. Set it on medium and proceed to the next project.
so was a bit confused..
To save money [and work] just buy a rear only 3 way adjustable and leave front alone. Set it on medium and proceed to the next project.
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I use rear only-at medium setting. Works very good. I used front aftemarket as well, but switched back to stock due to unbearable clunking and ride quality. Pretty much no degradation of handling after switch.
Go for rear only and spend other $150 on GT spec bars.
Go for rear only and spend other $150 on GT spec bars.
I REALLY hate digging up this thread from the dead, but I did the rear only with the 350evo and it greatly improved the rear end for just over $100. I plan to only replace the front sway bushings and stick with the stock bar because everything I've read says it's beefy enough as is. I guess you'd get the adjustability with an aftermarket one, but if you're not tracking I say just replace the bushings with Prothane.
I REALLY hate digging up this thread from the dead, but I did the rear only with the 350evo and it greatly improved the rear end for just over $100. I plan to only replace the front sway bushings and stick with the stock bar because everything I've read says it's beefy enough as is. I guess you'd get the adjustability with an aftermarket one, but if you're not tracking I say just replace the bushings with Prothane.
I've got the rear bar only (Cobb bar, rebadged Hotchkis piece) as well and it's worked out great. I keep the bar at it's lowest setting which is still about 65% stiffer than stock (I believe). I don't notice any twitchy behavior or snap oversteer. I've auto-xed with the bar and the car is very neutral and I can still send the car into terminal understeer if I get too greedy with the steering input at sub 30mph speeds. Obviously, I can coax the back end out as well, but it's entirely controllable and catchable. Many cars aren't as forgiving. Right now, I see no need for a front bar. The front does exactly what I want it to.
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