Pics. Hope he actually ships them.

 

Looking at the pics reminded me, from when I compared the two, the 05 rear caliper looked exactly like the 03 caliper, size and everything. The only difference is that the rear rotor is slightly larger. So when you install the rear rotor you'll have to either find a way to remove the rear dust shield (or back plate or whatever, I don't know the exact name for it) or find a way to trim it down so that you can fit the larger rotor.

 

yeah I figured I'd have to do that. No problem. I've done that kind of stuff before.

 

you just have to cut off the top lip on the dust shield in the rear for the larger rotor to fit.
-GP-

 

I'll probably just slit and bend it back.

 

Newby here. First reply with this great forum.
I have an '03 G35 Coupe, bought it used last year (12-26-07) the new pads they put on are very dusty. Front wheels are as black as the car after minimal miles.
Based on what I have read in this thread, converting to 05 breaks sounds like a great fix.
I don't race (other than an occasional testosterone based need for speed) but will be needing new pads soon at the rate they dust. I just want good brakes for 'normal' driving (to-from work) that aren't so dusty.
What is involved in converting to 05 brakes?
Where do you get them (dealer only)?, do you need to do the rears also (probably), appox cost.

Thanks guys

 

You can occasionally find complete conversions on here used in the marketplace which should include everything you need. Used with OEM pads, they would suit your needs perfectly.

 

There are other aftermarket pads that will dust quite a bit less. I put a set of napa pads on there and they dusted WAY less. But the tradeoff was less intial bite. But it was worth it for the amount of black dust the oems were spewing out.

But as you have read, the 05+ brakes are hopefully will be a great choice. For better performance, rotor longevity and oem pad performance w/o the dust. ala bert's info.

 

Hey bert. You use the oem lines or ss? I didn't see you mentioning it. What bleeding method you going to use? I have vacuum line kit and I'm planning to use. I put some teflon tape on my bleeders and that seemed to work well. Will probably drop some Valvoline synthetic brake fluid. Not the most exotic but specs out very well for off the shelf stuff. I think it's DOT 4 but that should be fine even though the manual specs DOT 3?

 

Realize that brake pads are a compromise. There is no such thing as a pad that dusts less, has great initial bite, and resists fade like crazy. The reason the car stops so well from the factory and has such great initial bite is because you have aggressive pads on it. Pads that stop like that will, by definition, have to dust a lot. Look at the front wheels of Porsches, BMW's, etc. and they all have this in common. Switching to a Hawk HPS or other low-dust/hi temp pad will certainly result in less dust and higher fade resistance on repeated stops, but it will also degrade stopping performance, at least on the first couple of stops, when you may need it most in an emergency. Those of you who say you don't track your car - that's fine, but do you really want to add 10-15 feet of braking distance to your emergency stops?

That being said, sticking with the OEM pads from an 05-06 is probably a fine solution, but an alternative might be to use the 03-04 OEM pads with a good aftermarket rotor that has better thermal handling/capacity. For example, get a cryo-treated rotor, or something with better vanes and slots, like dba 4000XS.

 

Jeff-

I used OEM everthing except for the brake fluid. In hindsight I would have gotten the stainless steel ones to improve the brake feel, since everything was removed already, but I just didn't think about it prior to installation.

I ended up using the normal old school two person bleeding method. Where one person in the car pumps the brakes, while I opened and closed the valve. Whatever works best for you is fine. I initially tried using one of those one person "Speed Bleeders" and it sucked. The Speed Bleeder valve leaked and would draw air into the system. So I chucked those and just used the OEM valves. I heard the vacuum line kit works OK though, but I don't have any personal experience with it.

DOT 4 is perfectly fine, it just has a higher boiling temp then DOT 3. They're both compatible/mixable. You could even use Dot 5.1, but I think those were intended for more smaller engines, like motorcycle engines and more frequent fluid changes.

The only type of brake fluid you want to avoid is regular DOT 5. DOT 5 is a silicone based brake fluid (SBBF) and not compatible with DOT 3 or DOT 4.

Here are some boiling points to compare:

Dry (new fluid) - Lowest to Highest:

DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM
DRY:502F -- WET:343F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER
DRY:509F -- WET:365F --- MOTUL 5.1
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO-SYNTHETIC SUPER DOT 610
DRY:620F -- WET:425F --- COBALT SUPER XRF

Wet (fluid after its absorbed some moisture in your system) - Lowest to Highest:

DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM
DRY:502F -- WET:343F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM
DRY:509F -- WET:365F --- MOTUL 5.1
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO-SYNTHETIC SUPER DOT 610
DRY:620F -- WET:425F --- COBALT SUPER XRF
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF

I personally went with ATE Superblue because it was cheap for me, had good boiling point properties, and this brand comes in two different colors, yellow and blue. It's cool because the different colored fluids have the exact same properties but if/when you go to flush your brake fluid again, you can see if you still have any of the old fluid in the lines by looking at the color.

Hope this help man!

 

That's all very true. Like I said initially, I did lose some initial bite due to the 05 pads, but for me I actually liked this trait because the wife would always complain about getting naseuous when riding in my car in traffic. It took more effot for me to modulate the 03 brakes to come to a smooth stop and she would sometimes complain . It's was definitely 'operator error' but still, anything that would shut up the wife and took less effort on my part is a plus in my book.

On Edmunds it shows:

2003/4 G35 Sedan
Braking Distance (60-0 mph): 110.56 ft.

2005/6 G35 Sedan
Braking Distance (60-0 mph): 111 ft.


1.56 ft. difference is not a big deal to me. No brake dust and a happy wife are.

 

http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/...ecs_price.html

Thanks Bert. I got 112 vs 111 ft. Given the tests were all from diff sources, it's all within the normal test deviations. I'd gladly give 1ft or so for the hassle of NOT having black wheels in 2 days.

IMHO, Infiniti upped the torque in the brake system via larger rotors vs having to result in using ultra aggressive pads. I can't imagine what the brake dist would be using the 03 compounds on the 05! haha. BTW I don't think the 03-04 pads work in the 05+. Twin piston calipers probably take a diff p/n pad. ie.. larger I guess.

 

Check your math

 

LMAO!

kids, stay in school. I meant .44 ft.