What's up guys, I'm putting on my tein basics this weekend along with my spc front and rear camber kit with toe bolt. I have read and know you have to elongate the hole with a dremel for full adjustment range for the rear camber kit. i'm using this as a guide: http://turboneticsownersclub.com/tur...oltinstall.pdf

My question is in the diagram where it has the holes and says cut to left and cut to right which way do they mean? Do you cut the driver side holes TOWARD THE FRONT or TOWARD THE REAR? AND VISA VERSA? Help would be appreciated. Oh and does anybody have a good diy link to install the front camber kit? I had one but can't find it anymore and I saw the one posted as a sticky but he didn't use any shims or did he really show all the bolts he removed. Thanks.

 

if you have the SPC toe bolt, it comes with the stickers you place over the hole to show the part that you need to dremmel out. to be absolutely sure, color in with a sharpie the part exposed within the sticker. As far as the front install, pm gilley, he did a diy for the fron install.

 

If you're working on the left side of the car, only cut away the right side of the template and vice versa for the right side of the car. So only cut towards the middle of the car.
-GP-

 

Since you will mostly be pulling the wheel IN to reduce negative camber, cut out towards the INSIDE of the car. The other side isn't necessary to elongate unless you plan on having positive camber.

I just did this whole install last night, plus coilovers and A-arms (which I had to remove cause I didn't have the cone bushing for the caster). When you are elongating the hole use a dremmel #115 bit. It's a high speed cutting bit. It really does go through that steel like a hot knife through butter, no joke at all. Just be aware that doing the holes that are closer to the front of the car are a pain in the a$$ because it's hard to get to them (stuff gets in the way).

What I did is try to attach the bit as far out as possible on the dremmel and reach through the back hole to the front one. Prior to this I tried elongating these holes with a cutting wheels and going sideways. It worked for the most part if you are good with a dremmel, but making it smooth and perfectly shaped to fit the bolt is very hard without using that #115 bit.

Good luck.

 

Ok thanks guys, I thought you are supposed to cut TO THE MIDDLE OF THE CAR but I wasn't sure, thanks for helping clear this up for me. I'm installing them saturday so I'm psyched. I'll PM Gilley for a DIY. How was the install on the front for the coilovers and the camber kit pavelpg? I know the rear is going to be fairly easy, just tryin to get any tips before I tackle this project. Pretty straight forward?

 

To be honest, the front is kind of a pain in the a$$ if you dont know exactly what you are doing and aren't concentrating on ONE side at a time.

My friend and I were doing the install and he forgot his tools so we only had one set of tools being passed around and switching bits, plus talking a lot about random stuff (which is okay, but it made the install really long).

Start by undoing the shock bolt to the wheel hub, then the end link bolt, then the caster/a-arm bolt. If you are replacing the a-arms, you need to pull down the shock to get to the a-arm bolts on the sides, so open the hood and undo the 3 bolts holding the top of the shock.

WARNING: when you undo the caster/a-arm bolt the shock is going to expand and push the assembly down, so be careful. It's not going to shoot out or anything, but just have a jack underneath the lower link to slowly release the pressure. Pumping the jack up a bit can sometimes relieve pressure on some of the bolts too.

One thing we screwed up on is mismatching the coilovers and had to swap them out after we pretty much torqued everything down and assembled it back. If yours have ABS line brackets, make sure they are matched up, because one part attaches lower on the bracket, and the second part attaches higher, and if they are swapped, you are stretching the line out and putting stress on it, because now the part that was supposed to attach lower attaches higher, and the higher part lower. That sounds really confusing, but the idea is look at your connections and match up the shock properly if you have the brackets on the shock.

 

Fronts can be tough. I would recommend looking at a few DIYs on this site and My350. These will kind of give you an idea of what can make it easier in terms of the order in which to take off certain bolts. Then intuition takes over. Good luck

 

This is kind of relating to the toe bolt holes and as a general question also: what do you guys think of the Dremmel flex-cord extension thing? It's that dentist drill looking attachment for 30 bucks that gives you a smaller tool to hold with just a push button to activate it and it has about a 2 foot flexible rubber hose that transfers power from the dremmel to the hand tool.

Any experience with this one? Seems like it might be able to get into a lot of places the big dremmel can't.

 

Thats what you need to use in this case

 

+1.....

 

+1 yup. i did this a couple months back. the extension will make it 10X easier along with the metal cutting bit. i forgot what # it was.
make sure your using a dremel with power cord and not the battery powered one. recharging it gets annoying. also if you disconnect your muffle and just leave it hanging that will free up a little bit of space also.
just take your time and you will be happy with the out come.
johnny

 

you have to have that extension to elongate the holes, the dremel itself if too bulky to get the right angle to cut at and you'll have a big mess if you dont get the extension.
-GP-

 

Well, I did it fine w/o the extension, but for next time I'll be sure to have it

Do you guys use the extension frequently? is my main question.

 

i use mine every chance i get. its easier to hold and makes things more accurate.
johnny

 

I'm glad I found this thread. I'm just about to Z H-techs and SPC rear time myself. Fronts, well, I may just let that slide and not do it depending on results. So no extension needed? I don't have the extender myself.