Bilsteins and springs installed...
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
On the issue of camber the point is to maintain as much tire on the road as possible. There is a law of diminishing returns as it pertains to camber(and shock stiffness). More is better to a point. After that point more is worse.
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
On the issue of camber the point is to maintain as much tire on the road as possible. There is a law of diminishing returns as it pertains to camber(and shock stiffness). More is better to a point. After that point more is worse.
Now as far as suspension stiffness goes, stiffer does not mean better road holding capabilities in fact if u have too much stiffness and ur road holding capabilities will diminish dramatically and u will be driving a very unstable car.
Originally Posted by Klubbheads
As far as the camber issues goes, generally more camber means more grip, more g-forces through a corner. Everyone is amazed about GTR's road holding capabilities but they don't realise that AWD and over -3.0 camber will result in exceptional road holding capabilities yet u will go through tires every 10-15k miles.
Now as far as suspension stiffness goes, stiffer does not mean better road holding capabilities in fact if u have too much stiffness and ur road holding capabilities will diminish dramatically and u will be driving a very unstable car.
Now as far as suspension stiffness goes, stiffer does not mean better road holding capabilities in fact if u have too much stiffness and ur road holding capabilities will diminish dramatically and u will be driving a very unstable car.
Jeff, relax, I was joking as in I won nothing but wasting my time. All I know is, I bought the damn shocks, if the settings are to soft the car bounces all over the road. When they are all equally firm, the car has great handling characteristics. Its firm and comfotable but handles freeway on ramps with ease. I took a turn so fast today on the on ramp, I scared my self for the first time ever in my car, and I have had this thing at the limiter on a few occassions. If I didn't have the adjustability on the suspension and it was too soft as in not enough dampening for the current spring, I would bounce like hell and it wouldn't be safe. My ride has remained unchanged for nearly 30,000 hard miles. I actually think these are a pretty good shock. I am probably cursing myself by writing this but the car handles so good I was never inclined to do more suspension mods as I had no need for the car to handle better on the streets.
Holy chit...I cannot believe this turned into 1 huge argument.
Adjustable shocks=junk unless the valving is matched, which will never happen straight off the shelf.
Camber=good to a certain extent. Pretty sure this has already been discussed. Pyrometer on the tire, cold spot means that part was making very little or no contact, adjust camber accordingly.
Why is it that caster was never discussed while we were at it? I would say caster is probably one of the biggest characteristics of your handling, as far as initial turn-in and control goes. Think of it like this: You're pushing a 2-wheel dolly/moving cart/whatever you call them. Stand it straight up and try to turn; the turning is uncontrolable for the most part. Now, tilt it 45* and do the same, you get much better control over how far the initial turn-in goes.
Honestly, I think this thread needs to end...I smell a flame war coming..........
Adjustable shocks=junk unless the valving is matched, which will never happen straight off the shelf.
Camber=good to a certain extent. Pretty sure this has already been discussed. Pyrometer on the tire, cold spot means that part was making very little or no contact, adjust camber accordingly.
Why is it that caster was never discussed while we were at it? I would say caster is probably one of the biggest characteristics of your handling, as far as initial turn-in and control goes. Think of it like this: You're pushing a 2-wheel dolly/moving cart/whatever you call them. Stand it straight up and try to turn; the turning is uncontrolable for the most part. Now, tilt it 45* and do the same, you get much better control over how far the initial turn-in goes.
Honestly, I think this thread needs to end...I smell a flame war coming..........
Originally Posted by Lucky-G
Holy chit...I cannot believe this turned into 1 huge argument.
Adjustable shocks=junk unless the valving is matched, which will never happen straight off the shelf.
Camber=good to a certain extent. Pretty sure this has already been discussed. Pyrometer on the tire, cold spot means that part was making very little or no contact, adjust camber accordingly.
Why is it that caster was never discussed while we were at it? I would say caster is probably one of the biggest characteristics of your handling, as far as initial turn-in and control goes. Think of it like this: You're pushing a 2-wheel dolly/moving cart/whatever you call them. Stand it straight up and try to turn; the turning is uncontrolable for the most part. Now, tilt it 45* and do the same, you get much better control over how far the initial turn-in goes.
Honestly, I think this thread needs to end...I smell a flame war coming..........
Adjustable shocks=junk unless the valving is matched, which will never happen straight off the shelf.
Camber=good to a certain extent. Pretty sure this has already been discussed. Pyrometer on the tire, cold spot means that part was making very little or no contact, adjust camber accordingly.
Why is it that caster was never discussed while we were at it? I would say caster is probably one of the biggest characteristics of your handling, as far as initial turn-in and control goes. Think of it like this: You're pushing a 2-wheel dolly/moving cart/whatever you call them. Stand it straight up and try to turn; the turning is uncontrolable for the most part. Now, tilt it 45* and do the same, you get much better control over how far the initial turn-in goes.
Honestly, I think this thread needs to end...I smell a flame war coming..........
As far as caster goes, I think keep everything relatively straight is for best tire wear. Not every degree counts for daily driving unless you drive like you are in daytona 500. If you were that serious as needing to set up your caster, you'd be adjusting for what type of driving you are doing that day, auto x, circuits, drifting. Thats why I didn't understand why this thread got off topic. It was originally about Bilsteins and OP installing them. 
Originally Posted by Nickk6
Jeff, relax, I was joking as in I won nothing but wasting my time. All I know is, I bought the damn shocks, if the settings are to soft the car bounces all over the road. When they are all equally firm, the car has great handling characteristics. Its firm and comfotable but handles freeway on ramps with ease. I took a turn so fast today on the on ramp, I scared my self for the first time ever in my car, and I have had this thing at the limiter on a few occassions. If I didn't have the adjustability on the suspension and it was too soft as in not enough dampening for the current spring, I would bounce like hell and it wouldn't be safe. My ride has remained unchanged for nearly 30,000 hard miles. I actually think these are a pretty good shock. I am probably cursing myself by writing this but the car handles so good I was never inclined to do more suspension mods as I had no need for the car to handle better on the streets.
Not to add fuel to the fire but look for an used set of swaybars. I went bars, 19" coupe wheels then Koni shocks/G-Coupe springs. The bars made a big diff with my stock suspension (premium=softest of all G/Z oem suspensions)
For $200 used, you can't beat the value. Especially when they are adjustable. You will be able to dial out the shocks to a softer setting and use the bars to tune the handling.
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
I'm over it. As long as you stay off the stiffer settings, you are fine.
Not to add fuel to the fire but look for an used set of swaybars. I went bars, 19" coupe wheels then Koni shocks/G-Coupe springs. The bars made a big diff with my stock suspension (premium=softest of all G/Z oem suspensions)
For $200 used, you can't beat the value. Especially when they are adjustable. You will be able to dial out the shocks to a softer setting and use the bars to tune the handling.
Not to add fuel to the fire but look for an used set of swaybars. I went bars, 19" coupe wheels then Koni shocks/G-Coupe springs. The bars made a big diff with my stock suspension (premium=softest of all G/Z oem suspensions)
For $200 used, you can't beat the value. Especially when they are adjustable. You will be able to dial out the shocks to a softer setting and use the bars to tune the handling.
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Because running them on full stiff = tuning the suspension the wrong way. As per the last 4-5 posts by me and Redlud97
jk
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