does anyone have specific numbers between these 2 kits...ie) 60-0, 100-0, piston size (not the # of pistons but how large they actually are), etc...since both kits are roughly half the price of the stoptechs i want, i figured i should at least research which one performs better....also, does any aftermarket co. offer a 2-piece drilled rotor for the g37's caliper yet??

 

I would venture to guess that no one has done a 100-0 or 60-0 test w/G37 Akebonos on a G35, so the question is somewhat academic. The Akebonos are not going to be sized properly for the G35 application in terms of maintaining brake bias, so you could make things a lot worse. If you want to be more certain, go with 03-04 OEM Brembos.

 

brembos are better performers during harsh condtions. 100-0 means nothing and my stock sedan will probably outperform those two BBKs in that category.

 

Best you could do is compare the brake times for an OEM brembo and the OEM Akebono on their respective cars and make a guess.

A 2 pc rotor for those heavy 14" rotors is a must. Amazing how well the G37s accelerate given the heft of these things.

I would guess that an OEM swap to a G35 wouldn't be too bad. As long as you swap both the front/rears, you stand a decent chance at maintaining a decent bias. It would depend on how the G37s MS distributes bias vs the G35 MS

 

why would the oem brembos be any better/worse than the OEM Akebonos? Both feature fixed 4 piston calipers and the G37 rotors are 14" vs 13".

 

1. brembos are lighter.
2. almost every serious competition car uses brembos that means it gets rid of heat better than the competition and that is the key for good performing brakes.

 

Not sure how you could say the brembos are better than this/that and not try to quantify that statement a little better. On the Z forums, the oem brembo guys are heating their brembos up to the point of discoloring their caliper paint.
The brake test I just posted shows the oem brembos are superior to the single piston oem setups but not to the aftermarket Stoptech setups.

On top of that, I don't think the Akebonos have been put to the test to say either way. But judging by their design, I don't see a particular reason they would fair particularly worse. If anything, the huge 14" rotor might give the system a greater heat capacity

 

im waiting to get a clearance to post the OP's quote here that has OEM g37 brakes on his car and we had a canyon run together. I just pmed him to confirm that he had the Akebonos on that run.

 

At this run i had stoptech lines/RBF600fluid/hawk pads on stock rotors. I did not have a single issue with my brakes and he did. Both of us were pushing the cars pretty hard for the same amount of time.

 

What issue did he have? I see no fade or warping mentioned. But if you guys had a thermo-gun, that would have been nice to compare rotor temps.

But I did pull a 60-0 time for G37S. 123 feet. So Klubbs would techinically outbrake a G37s if he's on the oem pads.

 

Now wouldn't wheel and tire combos play a part in the Akebono's possibly having an issue on the canyon run? Those Varianza are hardly the lightest.

 

alot to do with braking is tires, tires make a huge difference in stopping distances

 

well technically yes but the main question is how many times with stock g35 sedan. Out of 10 consecutive 60-0 stops, the first two stops, the stock sedan will outbrake the G37 but the other 8 will go to G37's favor. This is not the exact result but for relative purposes im bringing up this example. Right now with "stage 2 upgrade", which includes stoptech lines/rotors/hawk pads i will probably outlast stock g37 brakes as well but not stop as fast because hawk pads don't bite as hard as stock but they **** on stock pads in terms of fading resistance.

No fading or warping occured in Alan's case but that is what follows after the smell. Warping will not occur unless u hold ur foot down on a already fading/hot rotor while at a stop light. Fading however occures shortly after the brakes start smelling. Depending on ur fluid and lines u might not actually feel the fading through ur pedal untill the rotors actually catch on fire. I had all 4 rotors smoking with a thick cloud of smoke on my last track day but i did not see/notice it untill i came to the pit. That was with stock rotors and everything else i mentioned earlier.

 

Would just replacement sized rotors and diff brake fluid really improve the stock fade resistance on the oem sized brake system? VS 4 piston calipers, massive 14" rotors up front and 13.8" dia rotors out back with 2 piston calipers?

I "think" you could warp a rotor if you continually got it too hot and the rotor couldn't dissapate the heat in a controlled manner. Just like stepping on the brake in one stop would do.

Did he have the benefit of the same brake fluid too?

 

changing the pads and fuild is the most benefecial thing u can do to improve the fading of ur brake system no matter what u have. Next thing that follows is the rotors and then the lines.
Warping rotors usualy occur when u press/release the brake unevenly when the rotor is hot to its deforming point. That is most likely to happen at a complete stop since there is only one point that the rotor has pressure because it is not rotating anymore.
Alan had a direct swap from the g37's BBK, i think he has stock fuild/lines just like the g37.