I want to undertake this, as my fluid seems to be shot. It gains and loses viscosity too easily, resulting in a squishy pedal when the car gets really hot, and a very stiff pedal when the weather is cold outside. I realize some viscosity change is normal, but I've been driving manuals for a good 8 years now, and this is definitely excessive.
Now, I'm assuming the bleeder would be on the slave somewhere, which should be located on the transmission. What I want to know is, is it in an easily accessible spot? Also, where would I add fluid? I haven't seen a clutch fluid reservoir in the bay anywhere.
I'm not entirely opposed to just paying to have it done, but I'm already doing a coilover install and brake job, so the car will be up on jack stands for some time anyway, so I figured I'd do as much as I can myself.

 

Don't pay to have it done! I just did mine today... way too easy to pay for! Once you get the car jacked up you'll see the slave cylinder, I think it was next to the left cat. It's a little hidden but once you see it the bleeder valve is right there in plain sight.

You'll need a 7mm wrench (i think it was 7), some DOT2 brake fluid, and a clear piece of tubing about 1/8" in diameter. Also a container for the old fluid.You will also need someone to help

1. There is ample room to get up there and stick a wrench on the valve then secure a clear piece of tubing over the outlet.

2. Locate the reservoir, it is right next to the brake reservoir. It's a small cylinder about 2" high and has a hose that leads directly to the master cylinder. Wipe down the lid then remove the lid.

3. Get under yur car and have yur helper pump the clutch pedal 5x then hold it to the floor. Open the bleeder valve and a spurt of fluid will come out and travel down the tube.

4. Close the bleeder valve then have yur helper release the clutch pedal and wait 5 seconds.

5. Have yur helper pump 5x again then hold clutch while u open bleeder valve again.

Continue to do this while maintaining a close watch on the reservoir level. Refill it when it gets close to empty. Don't let it get empty or it will suck up air! Keep draining in this manner until you see new clean brake fluid coming through the tube and no air bubbles. I was very surprised at how dirty my clutch fluid was with only 28k miles on my car. I will probably do this once a year because it is so easy and it made such an improvement. From start to finish including jacking the car it took me about 45 minutes. waaaay easy!

 

I'm chaning my transmission fluid next week, I need to do this while I'm under there.

EDIT: Just found out my Motive bleeder will work for the clutch too!

 

The Infiniti Service Manual says to use DOT 3 brake fluid for the clutch. I bought a big container today, my transmission fluid will be here on Thursday. I'll take as many pics as possible and do a DIY.

 

yea it is DOT3, thats what I used... dunno why I typed DOT2

 

Here is another way to flush your hydraulic clutch fluid. It is easy and cheap. Here is the link.

http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

I know this seems almost too easy to be true. Trust me, it works.

Now I flush my fluid twice a year just to be safe.

 

Good info ResIpsa, thanks!

 

I was thinking of doing this method but I was afraid of introducing air into the system with the syringe method...any idea if this will happen?

 

Wow, sweet, just the replies I was looking for. I'll also take pics of my process if twin001 doesn't beat me to it. I will do tranny & diff as well, as the car has 33k miles now, and I don't believe they've ever been changed.

 

I wasn't able to take pics of the actual clutch bleeding process...didn't have enough hands! I did however take pics of the bleeder screw and before/after shots of the fluid.


https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...ange-pics.html

 

just finished up this video:
Clutch Fluid Flush/Bleeding

recommend putting a reference in the first post so people can find it

 

Ran across this forum and post when searching for "Slave Cylinder DIY How To 350z" -- And not much is coming up for any how-to's on the Slave cylinder.

I know my car.. the 2008 350Z.. and the G35's are nearly identical cars.. amazingly so. So much of what is applicable here, is applicable for the 350.. and what is applicable for the 350 is for the G35 (Coincidentally my younger brother just got a G35 in Dec,.. and I bought an '08 350Z in Dec.. We had no communication about it..)-- And frankly at that time I didn't know they were so similar to be honest.

Anyhow,.. I know some people get annoyed when people bring older threads back to life.. but I've been searching and reading a ton of forums about this topic, and as I mentioned I've yet to come across a 'how-to' on replacing the Slave cylinder.. I'm hoping it's not because it's such a difficult job that no one has put one up.

From what I've seen looking myself working on my car, the Slave seems to be accessible by the bell housing.. So it isn't something you have to drop the Transmission, etc on. Am I right?

Any help links, pointers in the right direction would be much appreciated!

Thanks

 

Its cake dude. lift the car up, support with jack stands, crack the line on the slave, lets the fluid drain, remove 12MM bolts, replace slave and copper washers, torque all to spec, refill and bleed........Done

 

Hrmm.. For most 350's.. but unfortunately they redesigned the Slave cylinder for the 07/08 models.. and stuck the dang thing INSIDE the bell housing. So for my 2008 I have to drop the transmission to change the slave

That scares me... as a DIY lol.