OEM or Hawk pads
#18
Look at the Project Mu NS pads like others have mentioned. I got tired of the excessive brake dust of the OEM pads and put on Hawk pads. They NEVER had the bite of OEM pads, and almost got me into trouble a couple times. I switched to Project Mu and got the best of both worlds - much reduced brake dust and much improved braking.
#19
Red Card Crew
iTrader: (24)
When Infiniti went to the bigger caliper/rotor in 05 (o6x), they went back to a less agressive pad. No need for it as clamping power was increased in other ways.
That's why if you have the upgraded sets, no need to go aftermarket. Less dust, cheap and still retains the world class 60-0 times.
That's why if you have the upgraded sets, no need to go aftermarket. Less dust, cheap and still retains the world class 60-0 times.
#20
Look at the Project Mu NS pads like others have mentioned. I got tired of the excessive brake dust of the OEM pads and put on Hawk pads. They NEVER had the bite of OEM pads, and almost got me into trouble a couple times. I switched to Project Mu and got the best of both worlds - much reduced brake dust and much improved braking.
#22
I found the OEM pads to bite a lot more agressively that my Hawk HPS replacements. Once the Hawks have a few hard brakings, they seem to do fine, but until then they seem to not work as well as OEM.
Recently it seems to have only gotten worse and I'm considering what other changes to make to my braking system. It seems like my car should be stopping much shorter than it currently does and I know it used to.
Any suggestions? I didn't replace the rotors or have them turned when I swapped the pads out (within spec & not warped), so that is my only thought at this point. Seemed to work fine for the first 6+ months though.
Recently it seems to have only gotten worse and I'm considering what other changes to make to my braking system. It seems like my car should be stopping much shorter than it currently does and I know it used to.
Any suggestions? I didn't replace the rotors or have them turned when I swapped the pads out (within spec & not warped), so that is my only thought at this point. Seemed to work fine for the first 6+ months though.
#25
#27
#28
Mike, if you feel the vibration from them when you hit the brake pedal, would you recommend you turn them or pull and swap them all together?
I have a track day coming up and I'd like to swap out for some new pads. Just trying to decide if I should pull and swap out the rotors as well
I have a track day coming up and I'd like to swap out for some new pads. Just trying to decide if I should pull and swap out the rotors as well
#29
I found the OEM pads to bite a lot more agressively that my Hawk HPS replacements. Once the Hawks have a few hard brakings, they seem to do fine, but until then they seem to not work as well as OEM.
Recently it seems to have only gotten worse and I'm considering what other changes to make to my braking system. It seems like my car should be stopping much shorter than it currently does and I know it used to.
Any suggestions? I didn't replace the rotors or have them turned when I swapped the pads out (within spec & not warped), so that is my only thought at this point. Seemed to work fine for the first 6+ months though.
Recently it seems to have only gotten worse and I'm considering what other changes to make to my braking system. It seems like my car should be stopping much shorter than it currently does and I know it used to.
Any suggestions? I didn't replace the rotors or have them turned when I swapped the pads out (within spec & not warped), so that is my only thought at this point. Seemed to work fine for the first 6+ months though.
HPS is a higher temp pad than OEM, and thus requires more heat to work effectively. Cold stops are not the HPS' forte - something that Hawk doesn't tell you when you buy them. Only way to get back to OEM "bite" is to get rid of the Hawks. It's not your rotors or anything else - it's the pads!
Pads are an inherent compromise: If you want great cold stopping power, you're going to have to live with dust and high wear, and some fade. If you want high fade resistance with a bit less dust, you have to give up cold stopping power. There really isn't much of an in-between.