Lol...I don't think I'd attempt that myself. I'd probably create some new and unmatching body lines.

 

I've rolled quite a few fenders with a wooden dowel and a heat gun so i knew i could get it pretty good with the torque wrench, just didnt think it would be BETTER than with the wood! I'm going to try and pull Jeremie's fenders when i can get my hands on a Stance roller... that's scary to me since i've never used one, wierd how using the tool that was created for the job frightens me more than using a damn torque wrench!
-GP-

 

Hahaha...just use the torque wrench then

 

There's no way i can get an even pull with a torque wrench.
-GP-

 

Unintended or not, your spreading a lot of misinformation.

HKS III has full height adjustablity independent from spring preload. Vs the CS you get slightly stiffer valving and slightly stiffer spring rates. Since the Flex is a twin tube design with much higher springs it's ment for a totally different market vs the non sport III.

True coilover is only a benefit for those driven to drop their car's to the weeds. Besides not needing to be that low, I decided after looking into the in's and out's of a truecoilover design on the FM, that type will never be installed on my car.

Cut and paste from SPL parts

Spring on mid link vs. Coil/spring over shock FAQ
A very common setup for aftermarket coilovers is to use a "true" coilover setup on the rear of the 350Z/G35. For such setups, the spring is relocated from its stock location on the rear mid link (the cast aluminum arm) onto the rear shock. The advantage to this setup is the simpler packaging (since manufacturers can use more readily available standard ID race springs). However Nissan designed the car with the spring separate from the shock for several technical advantages:

Springs never compress perfectly straight, they have a tendency to bow slightly when compressed. When the spring is placed over a shock body, this introduces side load to the shock piston, increasing friction and reducing the effectiveness of the shock.

The rear suspension is designed to gain camber as the suspension compresses. Since the rear shock is attached to the rear spindle near the top, this means that the angle between the shock and the chassis changes as the suspension compresses; due to the camber gain, the top part of the spindle will angle in more as the suspension compresses. Therefore, if a spring is mounted on the shock, the force exerted by the spring is applied to the chassis at the same angle, this means that the spring rate effectively changes as the suspension travels. In comparison, the spring acts more linearly when mounted on the stock location (rear mid link).
Therefore, for better handling, it is desirable to have the spring in the stock location.

In addition, a aftermarket rear coilover setup places the load/weight of the car where Nissan did not design for. This puts excessive loads on the shock mounting bushing, the spindle and the chassis sheet metal around where the shock is attached.

Another good read about why using a truecoilover rear isn't a good idea. This time we'll it's not from somone that stands to gain because their selling something. Mind splitting techi, sorry.
http://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-s...er-or-not.html

Stance is the best under $2k coilover you can get?
http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html
Remember this list:

Bilstein
Penske
Koni
Ohlins
Sachs
Dynamic Suspension
Not on this list? Almost certainly crap.



They get purchased because of price and reviewed by people that want to believe their great when in reality most owner's are ill equipped to know the differance between right and wrong behavior wise. Of course if ANYONE other then a manufactuer or reseller want's to send their dampers to be independently dyno's by Roehrig engineering, using the following standards, and email me the raw PVP or CVP files that will say something either way.

0ips to 10ips
Force in LBS
Full soft
One adjustment up from full soft
half stiff
one adjustment up from full soft
Full stiff
One adjustment down from full stiff
force vs velocity with 10ips opened with average plot shock for a hysteresis loop.

And here's why we should at least try to see a shock dyno before we believe what we get told by anyone.

Here's a hysteresis loop for a 350Z aftermarket shock that is claimed to be really REALLY great by the guys that have it or have raced them. Front shock is shown, full soft and full stiff. Notice the huge pink area following the red line. Indicates the shock have serious internal pressure imbalances, meaning less grip the fatter it is. Point is, here's a shock that is claimed to be great and we have proof it isn't.

 

Even with 672lbs springs, your not going to cure your issues. Fix the root cause and allow your suspension to have it's proper full range of motion.

 

We've seen several Stance coilovers show up for resale on my350Z because they didn't deliver on the track, poor damping.

You can't make blanket statements without bringing to the table a whole lot more then you have. Anyone can make the same claim, pretty sure Pete from BcRacing would.

I don't get anything out of the products I recommend. I don't own a shop, I don't have a close friend or relative that owns one. I refuse to get things for free or any cheaper then anyone else, I cant be bought. Point is, I've bought and installed more setups and tested them more thoughly then anyone I know in a Z or G. I waisted a lot of money on stuff OTHERS claimed was absolutely great. Along the way I've learned a whole lot about what makes something good and what things are largely hollow claims. I'm not a Tein fan, though the Flex for the Miata is a excellent product, for this car it remains to be proven. I do not recommend any sub $1200 coilover other then Bilstein Pss, Eibach Pro-S and maybe the H&R coilover, any of which would only be mentioned if the owner's needs were met by them.

 

Hopefully that will be today *crossing fingers*. Thanks for the additional links Jim.

 

gsedan that is some really good insight

just to make it clear, the info you gave would most pertain to a track setup correct? As for normal street driving, people can be more lenient?

also levon if you are wanting to get stiffer spring rates to reduce the rubbing, i would suggest more fender work, I can't say that getting stiffer spring rates will be worse or better because i have no experience in that field but i've seen what you can do with good fender work

either way hope you get it worked out

 

Yeah, not sure if I mentioned it earlier, but I've been needing a fender pull for 2 weeks now, maybe more. Hopefully I can meet up with Shane today.

 

oh ok yah because that's pretty much your savior right there a good fender pull and you are good, even to the point were you say damn now i need spacers in the front haha

 

^ That is what I did, I pulled my front fenders so much now they seem tucked lol...

 

haha yah i noticed that, im looking at your car thinking.. damn why is the front tucking with those specs?

 

I was wrong, i realized it shortly after, but was too lazy to edit the post. I was referring to the HKS luxury model and the tein basics. However i truely dont believe the HiperMax III or the Flex are worth the money for the marginal if any performance they give over Stance or BC's with the right spring rates and valving.

Pete would make that statement because he is talking about the custom valved and high spring rate setup they use on their track car. I wouldnt imagine that the basic BC or Stance setups would be a huge contender on the track.
-GP-