Chassis stiffening options
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 224
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From: Toronto Canada
Chassis stiffening options
Like the title says, I'm looking for ways to stiffen the chassis. I find the car has too much flex in turns. I really notice it when I'm going on a hard bend and have my sunroof on tilt, it gives off a little rubbing sound, and the car feels sloppy.
The following summer I plan to do all suspension work, my shopping list is as follows:
- Megan Street LP coil-overs
- Camber kits front/back
- Upper and lower sway bars (front)
- Polyurethane bushings
-
-
-
-
Now, what I would like is for everyone to add to my shopping list on what would stiffen up the chassis more. Anything would be appreciated, THANKS!
The following summer I plan to do all suspension work, my shopping list is as follows:
- Megan Street LP coil-overs
- Camber kits front/back
- Upper and lower sway bars (front)
- Polyurethane bushings
-
-
-
-
Now, what I would like is for everyone to add to my shopping list on what would stiffen up the chassis more. Anything would be appreciated, THANKS!
front and rear stru bars
gt-spec 4 point brace
front and rear tie bar
you have lots of options here:
https://g35driver.com/forums/suspens...es-inside.html
gt-spec 4 point brace
front and rear tie bar
you have lots of options here:
https://g35driver.com/forums/suspens...es-inside.html
I've heard to stay away from true coil over shocks because your transfering the weight on the stock spring location to the shock mounts, which weren't designed for that. A good shock and spring combo with stiffer sway bars will reduce body roll and keep you flatter in the turns.
Try splparts.com , I replaced my differential bushings with solid aluminum. Added stillen upper and lower camber braces and front/rear strut braces.
Made a big difference.
You usually only need camber kits if you car is lowered or has oversized wheels and is out of range of the factory camber arms for correct alignment
Good tires will not stiffen your chassis, then again I don't have 600+ hp
Try splparts.com , I replaced my differential bushings with solid aluminum. Added stillen upper and lower camber braces and front/rear strut braces.
Made a big difference.
You usually only need camber kits if you car is lowered or has oversized wheels and is out of range of the factory camber arms for correct alignment
Good tires will not stiffen your chassis, then again I don't have 600+ hp
Strut braces stiffen chassis not suspension
Camber braces and solid bushings stiffen the rear sub-frame (technically the chassis)
Not tryin to split hairs, just tryin to help
You could always feed you chassis viagra! Sorry that was bad
Camber braces and solid bushings stiffen the rear sub-frame (technically the chassis)
Not tryin to split hairs, just tryin to help
You could always feed you chassis viagra! Sorry that was bad
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
From: Toronto Canada
Right now I have some continental contisports on stock 18's, but have Michelin PS 2 ready for next summer.
I was throwing in the suspension work along with chassis stiffening b/c I figured they all obtained the same goal, which is handling.
Longduckdong:
I was originally contemplating a nice spring and strut combo, but I couldn't find something that would offer me the performance I wanted in the bends. I also wanted to find out more about the solid aluminum bushings and what sort of a difference you noticed.
I'm also very interested in the 4.point brace, seeing as how the stock one is mangled beyond belief. Does anyone have any input on how they feel it affected chassis dynamics?
Again, thanks to everyone for the input. This has opened new doors to my research.
I was throwing in the suspension work along with chassis stiffening b/c I figured they all obtained the same goal, which is handling.
Longduckdong:
I was originally contemplating a nice spring and strut combo, but I couldn't find something that would offer me the performance I wanted in the bends. I also wanted to find out more about the solid aluminum bushings and what sort of a difference you noticed.
I'm also very interested in the 4.point brace, seeing as how the stock one is mangled beyond belief. Does anyone have any input on how they feel it affected chassis dynamics?
Again, thanks to everyone for the input. This has opened new doors to my research.
Look into the whiteline suspension kits, they have bushings for the front and rear suspensions and the diff mounts. Next I would look into transmission and engine mounts, but they may/will transfer a lot of vibration and noise through the chassis (which means they're working, but it might be annoying). Looking at about $900 - $1000 right there for all of those bushings and mounts, not including labor.
In all honesty, you coud pick a better coilover system than the Megans.
In all honesty, you coud pick a better coilover system than the Megans.
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
From: Toronto Canada
I'm trying the megans because my buddy is dealer for them and they look like a nice starting point with a reasonable price range. I want the car to have very minimal body flex, and the car is still a daily driver so I wont be upgrading the engine and tranny mounts. I will be doing most of the labor myself, except for the bushings since I don't have a press (and i dont like burning them out).
I will start purchasing suspension parts when I get a slight break from school, I will do a write up/review on the improvements I feel.
I will start purchasing suspension parts when I get a slight break from school, I will do a write up/review on the improvements I feel.
hit up Rare JDM for a rear stabilizer bar (strut bar of sorts)... I have one in my sedan - and while it’s not a night and day difference, it does help.
here's a link about it:
https://g35driver.com/forums/picture...ar-teaser.html
here's a link about it:
https://g35driver.com/forums/picture...ar-teaser.html
With the stock bushings, when getting sideways (drifting,oversteer or fishtailing, whatever u want to call it) there's a lot less body roll. Before at the end of a drift the car would get traction then snap back the other direction almost causing me to spin out. Now it's a smoother and a more linear transition.
Also, the main reason I replaced my diff bushings was to prevent wheel hop.
While the solid bushings didn't eliminate the wheel hop completely, now you realy have to try to get it to hop. That's at 32 to 35 psi, at the strip I run about 20 psi and haven't had any wheelhop since. At 40mph you can hear the gear whine, but I like it.
Also, the main reason I replaced my diff bushings was to prevent wheel hop.
While the solid bushings didn't eliminate the wheel hop completely, now you realy have to try to get it to hop. That's at 32 to 35 psi, at the strip I run about 20 psi and haven't had any wheelhop since. At 40mph you can hear the gear whine, but I like it.
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so we dont need those tires but im sure those tires help you.

