Time to buy front camber arms

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Jan 18, 2010 | 02:39 PM
  #16  
Reason why Cusco, SPC, and 350EVo arms are more expensive is because of their quality. They also allow you to have more adjustment. Cusco has negative A arms, so if you want negative camber, you can do so. You'll get about -4 degrees of camber, depending on your drop, but I modified mine to get -4.7. I can probably squeeze it out to -5 if I wanted....or even more if I wanna spend some coin.
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Jan 19, 2010 | 01:09 AM
  #17  
so do you have to use the spc spacer and bracket or can you just use the arm? bc i am sitting at a -2.5 camber on mine and dont plan on going lower bc i scrape coming out of work and i have speed bumps in my neighborhood
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Jan 19, 2010 | 02:57 AM
  #18  
AARONHL

Looka hea



It looks to me that this guy is using the product you speak of.
His UN is obby
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Jan 19, 2010 | 12:30 PM
  #19  
Quote: so do you have to use the spc spacer and bracket or can you just use the arm? bc i am sitting at a -2.5 camber on mine and dont plan on going lower bc i scrape coming out of work and i have speed bumps in my neighborhood
No, you don't need to use them. However, with just the arms, you will only get around 1 degree of positive camber adjustment. The spacers add another 2 degrees.
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Jan 19, 2010 | 01:18 PM
  #20  
Can someone use just the spacers with stock A-Arms to improve their camber?
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Jan 19, 2010 | 03:05 PM
  #21  
how do you get to those bolts when you do an alignment?

Looks like you have to take the wheel off in order to adjust the camber.
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Jan 19, 2010 | 03:47 PM
  #22  
^Either that or jack the car up and the suspension will hang. If you aren't to dumped, you could reach your hand under there with a wrench.

Quote: Can someone use just the spacers with stock A-Arms to improve their camber?
It will give you a static +2 degrees. You won't be able to adjust it since the stock arms have no adjustment for camber. I don't think you could buy just the spacers new either. You'd have to find someone that didn't have them installed.

Fk...I'm all over this thread like flies on ****
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Jan 19, 2010 | 04:26 PM
  #23  
I'm thinking of buying SPC arms to possibly sell the spacers.

How would you adjust camber? Do you have to eye it?
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Jan 19, 2010 | 04:50 PM
  #24  
No, you have to take it to a shop and get the alignment done. The SPC arms also have caster adjustment but you can set that to zero. Either way, you should get an alignment done to see where you are at.

There is a 27mm bolt on the top front of the arm. Loosen that bolt and that is where camber is adjusted on the SPC arms.

I don't know if this is an issue or not.
My quote from another thread

Quote: The rear SPC camber and toe bolts are a good choice.

If you plan on going with an aggressive drop.....more than 2" I would not recommend the SPC front camber kit. I had both the unrevised and revised version of that kit and rode on it for over 1.5 years and I was plaqued with a knocking over medium and large bumps/dips the whole time, with both kits (a little better with the revised). It was annoying and always bothered me. I was told by a forum vendor that I was dropped below the working conditions of the kit....??? I recently installed a set of 350Evo camber arms and couldnt be happier. The knock is completely gone and the quality of the ride is noticeably improved. I still have to get an alignment but so far my experience is night and day between the two kits.

I was going to go SPL but found a good deal on a set of used 350Evo arms. There are a few others that also have aggressive drops and are having or had the same issue. I've done my research on the boards with these members and other posted threads. Just a heads up on what I've experienced, for what it's worth.

Good luck
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Jan 19, 2010 | 04:57 PM
  #25  
What was causing the noise?

I'm trying to get an idea of when you would adjust the camber during an alignment. My Maxima had a camber adjustment on the top strut mount so it was easy to adjust.
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Jan 19, 2010 | 05:09 PM
  #26  
One of the welds/knuckles on the control arm was hitting the fender well. I could see the markings on both the arm and fender well.

I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "when" you would adjust camber. You typically adjust camber after you lower a car if you want to get back into OEM spec. Those who track like to dial in some negative camber to get better traction around turns.
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Jan 19, 2010 | 05:13 PM
  #27  
Do you have to adjust camber when the wheels are on the ground? If so, how would you turn the adjusting nut? Would you have to adjust it when jacked up and keep checking by lowering and raising?
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Jan 19, 2010 | 06:28 PM
  #28  
I take it to an alignment shop cause you're just guessing doing it yourself
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Jan 19, 2010 | 07:26 PM
  #29  
there is no way you can align that properly by raising and lowering the car.


You have to raise the car and loosen the bolts

Then you have to lower the car and adjust the camber.

Now you have to raise the car to tighten the bolts and all your camber is screwed up now when you were raising the car.

Too complicated IMO.
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Jan 19, 2010 | 07:39 PM
  #30  
I do plan on taking it to someone for alignment, I just wanted to figure the design in case the guy has a hard time.
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