How low of a drop will require a camber kit?

Old Apr 12, 2010 | 10:07 AM
  #16  
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Quick question i just installed Sedan H&R springs which is 1.3 front and 1.2 rear do i really need it? I mean i have the front camber kit in the box didn't install yet. I probably should get an alignment and then see but i just wanted to ask since we are on the same subject thanks.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 09:34 PM
  #17  
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This is such a debatable topic because you have two standards

1. The people who loer around an inch an actually care about tire wear.....yea get rear kit bc front kits only give you more negative camber

2. People who liked to be slammed who realize flipping tires is ultimately cheaper in the long run.

Most camber kits give you more negative camber for better wheel fitment as opposed to positive camber for better tire wear

IMO if your worried about tire wear......dont drop the car
 
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 09:57 PM
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i dont really get it.. Why does lowering your car cause tire to wear faster?
 
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 10:14 AM
  #19  
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what is flipping tires? sorry
 
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 10:57 AM
  #20  
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flipping tire is just taking the right/left front, right/left rear and changing them. it so that the outside edge of the tires are know inside...
 
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 11:01 AM
  #21  
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thanks .
 
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 11:54 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by w4kj4k
i dont really get it.. Why does lowering your car cause tire to wear faster?
While tire wear depends on a crap load of factors, in this particluar case (lowering the car, which caused negative camber) the inside of the tire has more contact with the road and therefore taking most of the abuse from the road. The outside will wear slow than the inside. In most passenger cars, you want to rotate the tires every few thousand miles to even out the wear. With the G/Z (and most RWD sporty cars for that matter), rotating the tires is difficult, if not impossible. You can flip the tires (as mentioned previously). But if you have unidirectional tires, that involves removing the tire from the wheel and putting it on the other wheel, will get expensive.

Without the ability to rotate the wheels/tires, tires don't last quite as long. If you're able to keep the cars alignment spec within the factory range, the wear/abuse is more even across the face of the tread (inside vs outside wear) and help the tread life.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 08:59 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by money042
But if you have unidirectional tires, that involves removing the tire from the wheel and putting it on the other wheel, will get expensive.
isnt this what you have to do with non-unidirectional tires as well? if you dont flip the tires on the wheels, the outside of the tire stays on the outside of the car no matter what corner of the car you put the wheel on. the goal to keep even tire wear is to actually take the tire off the rim and flip it around so that the inside of the tire now becomes the outside of the tire.

am i wrong here?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 09:32 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by bina12834
isnt this what you have to do with non-unidirectional tires as well? if you dont flip the tires on the wheels, the outside of the tire stays on the outside of the car no matter what corner of the car you put the wheel on. the goal to keep even tire wear is to actually take the tire off the rim and flip it around so that the inside of the tire now becomes the outside of the tire.

am i wrong here?
Duh! My bad. You're right. I'm thinking more along the lines of a car with alignment in spec. Rotating the rear left tire/wheel to the front right side, can't do that with a unidirectional tire. If you've got a car with negative camber, you'll need to flip it on the wheel, then move it to the other side.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 09:34 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by money042
Rotating the rear left tire/wheel to the front right side, can't do that with a unidirectional tire.
cant do that with the stock 19's either since theyre different sizes between front and rear.
 
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