Brake Pads Recomendations
#17
For a daily driver, you don't need to worry about overheating your rotors, so you probably won't notice any difference between slotted and solid rotors. At the track, hot gases develop during repeated hard braking and cause the pad to float a little more above the rotor. The slots do 2 things, help dissipate those gases away, and keep the pads from glazing over. But you're not going to be in that situation during normal driving. And if you were to track your car, you'll need a bigger and better setup than OEM calipers and upgraded rotors/pads, so other than appearance, there's no real benefit to getting slotted on an OEM setup. If slotted rotors improved on the already outstanding OEM braking performance, either Infiniti would have installed them as stock or everyone here would be talking about them. Neither has happened.
Many people may comment on how they like the particular pad they have, or "think" it's a superior pad, but nobody has actually shown that any aftermarket pad outperforms the OEM pads for normal braking.
Many people may comment on how they like the particular pad they have, or "think" it's a superior pad, but nobody has actually shown that any aftermarket pad outperforms the OEM pads for normal braking.
#18
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I have a 2006 6MT, therefore I need the non-brembo pads. Wondering if anyone else has experience with the racing brake pads. I use the car as a daily driver but do push the car from time to time and would like breaks that will hold up a bit better than the OEM, and produce less dust. The ET500's claim to do this. Anyone else have experience with them??
http://www.racingbrake.com/RB_ET500_...d888-35-03.htm
http://www.racingbrake.com/RB_ET500_...d888-35-03.htm
#19
Not familiar with the ET500's. I may need to try the OEM pads bc i have an 06 and im not sure what cheap *** pads the shop who did service to this car used but id assume it was cheah $hit. These dust like crazy but I'll prob go to OEM and hope that i dont have massive dusting. I really wanted to go with Posi Quiets Extended Wear since I heard good things about them and very little dusting so ill just do some price searching and go with whatevers cheapest between the two. I've heard bad things about Hawks but people are gonna swear by and sweat at different products based off their experience
#20
All 03-04 non-Brembos use the same front pads. The 2005 G35X also uses those same pads, but every other 2005, and all 2006's, including the AWD, use a different pad. The Brembos were only available from 2003-04, and only on a 6MT.
I'd verify those are going to work with your 2006. They say they'll work on an 02-07 non-Brembo. The problem is that's impossible. All of the front brakes were changed in either 2005 or 2006 (AWD), meaning a front pad meant for an 03-04 won't work on your 06, so something isn't right. It's meant for a single piston front and won't fit in your 06 2-piston front. The only pad that's consistent from 02-07 is the rear pad.
Are you having problems with the OEM setup "holding up"? Unless you're doing some serious canyon driving, with regular hard braking, you're not going to find a better pad for an OEM setup. And putting a different pad on so you get better hard driving performance almost certainly means you'll be giving up day to day braking performance, i.e. longer stopping times.
There is no magical brake pad that works well for both regular daily driving and also for more aggressive driving. The regular pad will start to fade under hard use, and the "racing" pad will not perform well when it's cold. And I don't mean when it's cold outside, I mean when it hasn't been heated up from regular use. Suddenly, your emergency stop on the way to work becomes an adventure because you've added 20 or more feet to your stopping distances. As for less dust, the 05+ OEM setup doesn't produce that much dust, and any pad that produces less more than likely has worse peformance. Like I said, there's no magic pad out there that can do everything. If you find that the ET500 even fits your OEM setup, don't be surprised if the car doesn't brake as well around town.
I have a 2006 6MT, therefore I need the non-brembo pads. Wondering if anyone else has experience with the racing brake pads. I use the car as a daily driver but do push the car from time to time and would like breaks that will hold up a bit better than the OEM, and produce less dust. The ET500's claim to do this. Anyone else have experience with them??
http://www.racingbrake.com/RB_ET500_...d888-35-03.htm
http://www.racingbrake.com/RB_ET500_...d888-35-03.htm
Are you having problems with the OEM setup "holding up"? Unless you're doing some serious canyon driving, with regular hard braking, you're not going to find a better pad for an OEM setup. And putting a different pad on so you get better hard driving performance almost certainly means you'll be giving up day to day braking performance, i.e. longer stopping times.
There is no magical brake pad that works well for both regular daily driving and also for more aggressive driving. The regular pad will start to fade under hard use, and the "racing" pad will not perform well when it's cold. And I don't mean when it's cold outside, I mean when it hasn't been heated up from regular use. Suddenly, your emergency stop on the way to work becomes an adventure because you've added 20 or more feet to your stopping distances. As for less dust, the 05+ OEM setup doesn't produce that much dust, and any pad that produces less more than likely has worse peformance. Like I said, there's no magic pad out there that can do everything. If you find that the ET500 even fits your OEM setup, don't be surprised if the car doesn't brake as well around town.
#21
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Thanks for the quality advice Buckeye. I bought the car with 15K on it, and had to have the rotors turned at ~30K, which seamed very low to me. Now a year and a half later and I need to fix them again. This time around I want to just get new rotors and brakes and install myself (having the rotors turned and pads replaced set me back $800 at the dealership, not a happy experience), and hoping to find something that will hold up a little better to more aggressive driving. Currently looking at getting some slotted Centric rotors and was looking into different pads. It does look like people here have been happy with the Centric rotor and OEM pad combination. FYI, I'm in the northeast so rain and snow are a part of daily life.
#22
Thanks for the quality advice Buckeye. I bought the car with 15K on it, and had to have the rotors turned at ~30K, which seamed very low to me. Now a year and a half later and I need to fix them again. This time around I want to just get new rotors and brakes and install myself (having the rotors turned and pads replaced set me back $800 at the dealership, not a happy experience), and hoping to find something that will hold up a little better to more aggressive driving. Currently looking at getting some slotted Centric rotors and was looking into different pads. It does look like people here have been happy with the Centric rotor and OEM pad combination. FYI, I'm in the northeast so rain and snow are a part of daily life.
30K isn't too much out of line for rotors needing turned. Why do you think you need new ones now? Are the pads shot? There's no reason you can't just get them turned again and put new pads on. And it's probably only the fronts that would need turned. Take them to a brake place and have them measure the thickness of the rotor and see if they can be turned again. It's definitely cheaper than buying new ones.
Centric makes very good rotors. You probably only need fronts if you do replace your OEMs. The rear rotors, especially on an 06, should still be more than fine.
#23
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Yea, I had actually taken the car in to have the window mechanism fixed under warranty and mentioned that my breaks were throbbing under hard breaking. They called me back saying that the rotors were warped and needed to be turned and that the pads had to be replaced. Now, I'm going to take full responsibility for not asking up front how much it was going to cost for labor, but I knew how much the pads cost and roughly how much a normal shop would cost to turn them, and since I had the loaner car and just wanted everything taken care of so I just told them to do it. Obviously a big mistake when I got the bill. I haven't gone back since.
At this point I'd rather just replace the rotors then try to have them turned again, since I know every time you do it you decrease their life and I don't really wanna have to do this again any time soon and would appreciate the increased performance. Plus, when they turned my rotors they took metal off the inside of the rotor my brakes never touch, so it's permanently rusted now (I know it doesn't matter but it bothers me).
I may take your advice and just replace the front rotors and pads and see how it feels. I suppose worst case is there is still a shudder and I do the rears the next weekend.
At this point I'd rather just replace the rotors then try to have them turned again, since I know every time you do it you decrease their life and I don't really wanna have to do this again any time soon and would appreciate the increased performance. Plus, when they turned my rotors they took metal off the inside of the rotor my brakes never touch, so it's permanently rusted now (I know it doesn't matter but it bothers me).
I may take your advice and just replace the front rotors and pads and see how it feels. I suppose worst case is there is still a shudder and I do the rears the next weekend.
#25
That's going to be difficult for us to verify. We don't have the 250GT in North America, where most of the members reside. It fits a 2004 G35, but I don't know if they have the same brake setups or not. It's very likely they do, but you'll have to verify that on your own. You might be better off starting a new thread on this instead of asking here.
#26
You can easily turn your rotors a few times. No need to really upgrade the rotors and just use OEM pads. That being said if you badly warp your rotors I hear turning them is more a temp fix then anything. The problem does come back but like people say, turn it till you can't because its cheaper and does the trick. I had to have mine turned also right around 30k
#27
#28
I run axxis ceramics. They do dust allot but are smooth, and they bite real hard when warm/hot. But they dont have the initial bite of the OEM pad. They also need 1 good stop to get some heat in them in the winter months before they bite.
I think for your needs, the OEM pad will work well.
I think for your needs, the OEM pad will work well.
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