Caution; YOU do not want to snap off those studs; they are weld to the car body.

If you have or buy a deep socket 12mm your good to go~ just get comfortable with the handtool alignment over each extended stud. Take your time.

12mm box wrench will get those 4 hex nuts just as well.

Caution, if using the 12mm box wrench "choke up" on the handle and be sure to turn it on center.

 

Yes, make sure when loosening those nuts that you are twisting on center and not applying side pressure (at an angle).
I used a deep socket and a long extension so I wasnt reaching up into the fender while trying to losen the nut.

 

It never hurts to shoot the seller a message. Nothing against the other colors, but I have glad that I ended up with red, it matches my car better and my Ichiba camber arm that will probably be replaced sooner than later.

 

^You better believe, if I do end up getting these, I WILL be sending the seller a message and trying to get my hand on red ones.
I'd be OK with orange, but really don't want yellow :/

 

Need help asap!! Do I need the bottom rubber. Seat for the rear springs still or do I just use the metal seat provided? Cause right now I have it installed into the metal one..the metal one alone looks like it stslides around too much in the rear lower control arm...literally need advice now...

 

Are you talking about the rubber in the bottom of the spring bucket? If so just leave that in and Yes use the metal spring seat that came with the springs.

 

ok guys im done with the install..not just now but i just got home and got a chance to write on here...

install went pretty smooth being that i used jacks/jack stands for the install.

only problem was the stock rear shock has a threaded bottom end and the new rear coilovers dont so i have to buy nuts for them but no big deal..took my time and took breaks since the sun was BEAAAAMINNGG and got done in a few hours..

forgot to measure before i started but i did a pretty good job is getting them level side to side but my front to rears are off by an inch so tomorrow i will be leveling it all out. took it around the block since i also put my new Varrstoen wheels on and took it real slow so didnt test it much yet! just breaking in the parts and new lugs/wheels..

the only issue i encountered was on my test drive i had a small rattle/clunk on 1 front side and my rear end wasnt very stable compared to the fronts...i started by setting my fronts on 9/18 stiffness and rears at 8/18 but my rear end felt a little bouncy compared to a stiffer front..would hit a small bump and front would be stiff and rear would bounce around..NOT A GOOD FEELING! LOL


Any advice on something i possibly did wrong to get this issue??

i did all my height adjustment from the shock body..didnt touch the springs/spring perch at all besides to make sure it was locked..

any other input is appreciated! ill be getting it all worked out tomorrow at 7am so i need any info you guys can give me!

now for some kind of teasers lol all i have for now..more when i work out the kinks..rears are actually a bit lower but that side in the pics the wheel was sitting on a hump on the driveway..nothing anyone hasnt seen but im very happy with the outcome...going to go through this set of tires since i got them for an amazing deal and then i will be stretching and spacing them out probably around 20-25mm...sorry for the phone pics..and there will be tire shine on tomorrow for the 1 hater that always leave that comment lol just test pics..

 

^Did you install the rear springs in the buckets or on the shock body?

If you installed them in the buckets, that just might be the source of your bounce.

 

in the buckets for now..has to be a way to fix this though..possibly set dampening higher than the 8 its set at now?

 

You installed those wrong...I'm pretty sure 99% of people with Mdus do true coil setup to loose the bounce. Did you not see the mdu review thread? Very nice wheels btw

 

^I was just about to reference that thread.
IIRC, one guy tried maxing the damping, and that didn't really solve his issue, but moving them to a true coil setup got rid of most of the bounciness.

 

yea ive read the review thread. just thought id set it up this way to start off since ive never had coilovers..guidance on how to set it up to true coil and maybe ill just do that tomorrow?

 

Send twalls a pm! He knows everything you need to know about these

 

I just noticed, Tony hasn't even posted in this thread yet.

chatt350gt, when you PM him, ask if he'll make an appearance here to shed some light on the best settings for these.

 

How goes it folks... Yeah.. True coil setup will fix that problem brotha.. W/ these spring rates, there's NO WAY the rear will not be bouncy in OEM setup.. I tried everything homie.. You MUST put them in true coil setup, and I've found the ride to be EXCELLENT after that..

After you do that, ENSURE you also tighten the bolt on your spring buckets, otherwise you'll hear a pop everytime you stop or start from a dead stop as well..

To configure the coils as true coils, you simply make the rear coils look like the front.. Slide the springs over the shock and install.. Very simple.. The bottom of the shock unscrews completely off..

The rattle or whatever you hear in the front might be due to the nut not being tight on the front shock tower.. There is a nut right under the damping dial that needs to be tightened.. Lock that bastard down, and you'll get rid of that rattle..

You still might get a "slight" chatter when going in parkinglots at 20mph or under, that's just a sound you get used to from having coils.. You won't even hear it if you have the radio on, and you can't hear it outside of the cabin so no worries.. It's not loud at all and some people don't even hear it.. Just know that it's normal if you do.