[QUOTE=chatt350gt;6062665]I know what you mean. I ended up laying the shock on a piece of cardboard, putting a socket wrench on the nut and hit the wrench with a rubber mallet to get the final 1/4 turn. Thats all it took to alleviate that rattle.

 

howd that work without still turning the rod?

 

As I did

As for the toe, it is the best that we could get it to be. I might go back and reduce the rear camber to -2.5. Do SPC toe bolts allow for more adjustment? They seem to be the same length as the stock ones.

 

[QUOTE=4D05G35;6062752]I don't believe your shaft should be turning (non-threaded part). Make sure that ball joint underneath damnener adjustment know is not loose. As I mentioned before, when I was un-tightening the spring collars, I accidentally untightened that nut above the ball joint. As soon as I rolled off the 2x4 it made a loud clunking noise.

 

lol, alignment sheet responds to the specs shown on it

 

Works similar to breaking a nut loose in the same manner. The quick impact of the mallet tightens the nut a little before the shaft spins.

 

The bolts are the same length, it's the eccentric washer that moves the bolt in or out further that adjusts the toe.
I would see if they can do a better job with another tech or another shop. I have aftermarket toe bolts, but others (4DGS comes to mind) that are running more camber than you are seem to be able to get toe into spec with the OE bolts.

Oh and the shaft will spin as you try to tighten/loosen the top nut. That's why I have always used an impact gun when replacing springs/struts. It's a lot easier than trying to fight with holding the strut and trying to loosen the nut with a wrench, a quick zip and it's loose.

 

I got a lifetime alignment with the place. The tech who was working on it is a local zcrew member and knows about the cars more than I do. I will be back there anyways to get some minor adjustments done. Thanks for the help.

 

I have the same package. It's saved me a lot since I can't seem to leave my suspension alone.

 

So the nut above the upper pillow mount came undone cause nasty rattling sound yesterday. I had to take the rear apart at 10 pm Got it tightened but I hope it is not going to happen every other week. While at it i tried the suggestion of flipping the spring to see if the nuts will fit on the upper mount bolts with having to lower the spring every time and it failed. I have a picture of it on my cell. I'll upload later.

 

Ok, today I took the rear apart in hopes of curing the squeaking sound I get from the right rear side. And I failed....I have no f#$#@ clue what causes it. My next step is to have someone jump on the trunk (with trunk open) while I am listening and trying to determing what caused the sound. On a good note, I set my rear to 9/18 setting and seems like I lost the bounce in the rear. I have a feeling I was turning the damper **** the wrong way at first Anyways, more to come. If someone has the same sound and had any luck in curing it please share.

 

Maybe it's an un-lubricated component somewhere... just pack your entire wheel well with axle grease and let us know if that fixes it

 

The only part that I did not spray wd 40 on was the nut right above the upper pillow mount....everything else go a load of grease...I have a feeling it is something to do with the spring. I don't know why, but I am leaning towards the spring compression = squeaking or metal on metal sound....

 

Which way are you turning the **** to stiffen now? And I don't have squeeking but the rattles still occur..I opened the trunk and made it bounce but still couldn't figure it out cause I was alone lol. Well figure it out 1 day guys lol

 

For mine atleast it sounds like the top mount is hitting the body and its so annoying. Im acutally going to pull it apart this weekend to install my rear camber kit and switch it back to OEM. Im pretty dumbfounded also everything is tight and i have the preload set correctly so there is no spring play. Hopefully i can figure something out.