Actually...from the pic, looks like you didn't remove the half shaft. How did you get it out of the bearing?

 

^ this

^ No. Will not work

In my case IDK if fletch was same the whole spindle had to be removed and pressed out

 

Well that's a PITA.

Has anyone every gotten the bearing off without pressing it out of the spindle?

 

Hi guys,

I think I have a problem with my left front bearing, but there is obviously a big difference in price with respect to replacing the bearing and replacing both hub and bearing.

How can I tell what's really necessary (actually, I'm not capable of doing this myself, so I have to trust a mechanic)?

Thanks

 

I found this link (cross thread on the 350Z page).

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...gs+Best+Seller

I'll be doing mine in a few weeks <hopefully> if anyone has pictures or a best practice I'd appreciate it.

Did you ever get an answer to the 1/2 shafts? that's my concern as well

 

Did you ever get your answer?
I found this site which sells the hub and bearing assembled
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...gs+Best+Seller

I am going to attempt to do this myself in a few weeks, hopefully I don;t need to pull the 1.2 shafts

 

To pull the half shaft back I did not drain any fluid. All i did was remove the spindle nut (using a 32 mm socket borrowed from autozone) and then remove the lower ball joint. I then turned the wheel all the way to the left and just pushed it out using a screw driver and a rubber mallet. If the bearing is locked up in there you'll have to remove the top and bottom ball joints, the track bar, and the steering bolt any ways to take out the knuckle and that will definitely let you pull out the half shaft.

 

I soaked mine in pb blaster for 2-3 days and then hit it with a air hammer for probably an hour or more with no luck. Hopefully, yours isn't as stuck as mine was, but if it is, don't waste you time and just pull the whole knuckle and get it pressed out.

 

Ok thanks..

Time to plan for the worst and hope for the best.


First up...gotta dp a rear brake job today.

 

I've had my front right wheel bearing go out twice in the last year... replacing it isnt fun and neither is trying to find out why it keeps breaking

 

Well, I have a feeling both bearings will be seized now. Did my rear brakes today. Both caliper slide bolts are seized in the callers. Drivers rear caliper is seized in the bore. Had to order 1 new caliper ($45 not bad) and will be replacing it next week.

Ugh...I hate fixing cars.

One thing that works for me when doing brakes is to smear anti-seize all over the hub before sliding the rotor on. Next time I do brakes, rotor slides right off. I'll definitely be putting anto-seize all over this bearing where it mates to the spindle that's for sure.

As for getting it out....still reading up on varius methods and such. Plenty of DIY on rear bearings (mine are fine) but very little info on fronts.

So keep anything you'd like to pass long coming.

One thing I was thinking of doing was taking a junk rotor I kept, and putting it on then hub and bolting it down after removing the axle , brake caliper and the 4 bearing bolts....then bashing the **** out of it woth a 10 pound sledge. Heat and sledge is pretty effective. Plus if you hold a 2x4 across the bottom of the car, to hit the backside of the rotor...it works very well. Vie had good lick with that method taking seized rotors off. I used it today on my rears

I just don't want to resort to pulling the entire spindle off if I can avoid it.

 

Pulling the whole knuckle wasn't to bad except that all of my cotter pins were seized in the bolts so i had to drill them out. That rotor idea doesn't seem like a bad one. Hopefully it works, but if not be prepared to take it apart. Good luck!

 

I'll definitely plan for having to take it off, but hoping I don't need to.


What parts did you purchase? In reading the rear bearing DIY, seems there is a metal seal on the rear axle shaft. That guy replaced it.

Do the fronts also have this seal? And does it need to be replaced? Just want to make sure I have everything necessary before starting to try to tackle 1 side first.

Been reading wheel bearing threads for 2 days. Sucks that the bearings fail so easily on these cars.

 

So, just to update.

Decided to take a chance with the rock auto Timkin bearing.

Bought 2 for $85 each. Low and behold they actually had them in stock. $170 plus shipping later, I had my two front bearings.

So they came in Timkin boxes, p/n BM500013

I had a sneaky suspicion, so I opened the boxes up and looked on the face of the bearing. Sure as ****, I was right. They bearings did NOT say Timken, they said "Made in Japan. NTN. HU8239"

So, looks like the Timken bearings are repackaged NTN bearings...which are oem. I honestly had a feeling this would be the case as Timkin probably handles the distribution in the US since NTN is a Japanese manufacturer. Even the back of the box confirms it by stating the product is distributed by Timkin in partnership with select manufacturers.

Next cheapest I found the oe bearing was from a vendor for $150ish each, so I did save money.

Now I need two hubs

 

Glad it worked out for you this is what autopartwarehouse sent me & listed as compatible with X's needless to say I was not a happy camper nice to know theres another source for when the other one goes.